their rear seat? Is it advisable? I appreciate all input.

JR

 

You don't really need too, kind apointless, thats where teh gas tank is and the seat of course, all that there is no real noise leak anywhere there.

 

Thanks for the reply and assistance.

 

You don't need to for the stereo system, but it could keep out road noise. There have been people who did that (actually the whole car - floor and all). They say that every bit helps with the road noise but with the cost of dynomat I would think about it.

 

I did it. Check my homepage.

 

Dynamat won't help with roadnoise!!! It is not a noise barrier. It absorbs vibrations. There are other products designed specifically for reducing road noise...and I might add they are extremely expensive.

Tony

 

What are some names? Cascade?

 

LComp by BQuiet seems fairly popular. They specialize in barriers & damping materials made strictly for car audio. Steredude used this I believe and seemed happy with the results.

McMaster also sells all sorts of noise barriers and the like. They are more geared for industial use, but as long as you know what you're ordering, it all works the same.

BQuiet
McMaster

For the McMaster site I believe you type in "sound control" in the search box to find what I'm talking about.

Tony

 

I am quite positive that dynamat makes at least two or three products designed to be as much a barrier as an absorber. Other barriers are 'rammat' and 'peel & seal'. There is another significant source of noise under the seat, the fuel pump. If you listen, you can hear it everytime you turn on the car. Cascade's vinyl materials are excellent barreirs and vibration dampeners.

 

has anyone ever removed the rear seat? is there a place that tells you how to remove various things in the interior (door panels, rear seats, etc)?

n1cK!

 

The bottom has a little pulley thing you pull out then pull up and toward you...The rear you have to remove the plastic panels, the the big metel piece and unbolt it.

 

that's funny... Dynamat is THE SAME DAMN THING!

they're all vinyl or asphalt based, made to lower the resonant frequency of the material it's placed on.

I've had excellent results using Rammat under my rear seat to knock out road noise... I can hear myself breathe while cruising down the highway at 100mph.

 

Unless I am mistaken, reducing the resonant frequency is not the same as reducing road noise. I think Dynamat makes only one really effective noise barrier...Extremeliner. It's about $15/sq.ft. The rest of their products (except for their Hoodliner, which is supposed to reduce engine noise) concentrate on absorbing vibrations caused by your speakers, not road noise.

I guess when I hear most people ask about "Dynamating" their car to reduce road noise, they are under the assumption that using regular old vinyl or asphalt-based damping sheets (which is what most people think of when they hear the word Dynamat) will significantly help in this area. However, I was just trying to point out that blocking road noise, to any real degree, is a very time consuming and expensive process...which involves more than the application of sound absorbers and damping products. These, by themselves, are very poor blockers of road noise.

I was just trying to clarify! I probably didn't word my reply very well!

Thanks Matt93SE!

Tony

 

You honestly don't believe vinyl or aluminum are good barriers? And by the way, the adhesive used in the aluminum materials is not asphalt based. It is similar in look and feel. But is a rubber adhesive with virtually no odor. The largest source of road noise in my vehicle is wind noise across the windshield and A-pillars. The pillars are a fairly simple fix and will reduce the noise penetrateing the windshield as well. But the rest of the windshield noise would take considerable money and effort.

Also, reduceing the resonant frequency to a level below the audible range is effective at reduceing road noise. Not to mention that it requires more energy to cause the damped panel to resonate with an equal spl. Also the fact that if you reduce the resonant frequency to below the lowest notes of your music, it will be very unlikely to resonate.

 

What do you recommend as a good barrier jmax? Peal&Seal? Let me know. I want to get this done and over with before it gets really cold up here. Thanks

 

Where, other than in the car, do you plan to use it? Firewall, doors, floor, ceiling? Some materials do not stick well long term upside down or vertically. Some materials are better absorbers than barriers. For barrier the aluminum products like peel and seal, ramm mat, dynamat extreme, brown bread, etc work well. Also the vinyl materials like cascade audio and the generic materials at parts express work well as barriers. But in my opinioon the vinyl materials do somewhat of a double duty as an absorber. For a really good dampener / barrier I would use a layering of materials. Vinyl, aluminum or lead tape and foam. Or even a thin layer of foam, then vinyl or lead / aluminum. Of course there are other materials like polyurethane mix, fiberglass resin mix and various materials that can be stirred in before any of these cure.

 

JMAX - So you are saying that Peal & Seal and Dynamat Xtreme are basically the same and serve the same purpose (or should I spend the extra cash and buy the Dynamat Xtreme?). I am only doing the floor, rear seat and doors as well as the trunk. Give me a breakdown on what to put where if you could be so kind to do so. I appreciate it. Also, for later on, what should I use for the ceiling that has adhesive resistance over time? again, I appreciate your help.

 

For the floor and under the seat peel and seal will work good. For the doors peel and seal might work, but could have some unsticking effects over time. I think it depends on the roll. Peel and seal seems to have episodes of batches that don't stick as well as it should. Ramm mat had this issue once. I don't know if rick got *** fixed or if he determined that it was because the ramm mat 60 was too heavy for the adhesive. The ceiling doesn't need a lot of barrier. A single layer of cascade or dynamat should work. Then a layer of 1/2 inch carpet padding. I havn't done my roof because of issues of many products coming loose in summer heat. I have a plan for my roof but havn't been able to put it in action yet. It will take me about a week of warm dry weather and a good check with overtime in it. The stuff I will use will come from many sources and some of it won't be cheap. But a layer of lead foil tape may go on first. That's not the best location for a great barrier, but will work best because of it's mass.