Diamond Audio 12D4 M6 Sub Question
02-11-2003, 06:56 AM
#1
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Diamond Audio 12D4 M6 Sub Question
On the website, it says that it can take 800W RMS, but it gives no max wattage rating. Does anybody know if this sub could take a 1200Wx1 feed? I've got the JBL BP600.1 amp, and I'm thinking about trading it in for a BP1200.1. What do you guys think? Do you think it would sound significantly better, or just a little, or not at all?
Thanks,
Lloyd
Thanks,
Lloyd
02-12-2003, 04:34 PM
#3
Re: Diamond Audio 12D4 M6 Sub Question
Originally posted by Ma><iManiac
On the website, it says that it can take 800W RMS, but it gives no max wattage rating. Does anybody know if this sub could take a 1200Wx1 feed? I've got the JBL BP600.1 amp, and I'm thinking about trading it in for a BP1200.1. What do you guys think? Do you think it would sound significantly better, or just a little, or not at all?
Thanks,
Lloyd
On the website, it says that it can take 800W RMS, but it gives no max wattage rating. Does anybody know if this sub could take a 1200Wx1 feed? I've got the JBL BP600.1 amp, and I'm thinking about trading it in for a BP1200.1. What do you guys think? Do you think it would sound significantly better, or just a little, or not at all?
Thanks,
Lloyd
Check with NaMike, he has that setup i his car.
02-12-2003, 08:21 PM
#5
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I would say it depends greatly on the enclosure. You could waste 1200 watts on a single M6 with the wrong enclosure. Or you could use it more carefully to power a pair. The difference by ear between 600 and 1200 watts is truly not enough to cause shoulders to shrug. You can get the same difference by building a larg4er sealed box. Or for even greater amounts of bass, as you are obviously seeking, go ported.
02-12-2003, 08:54 PM
#6
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Originally posted by jmax
I would say it depends greatly on the enclosure. You could waste 1200 watts on a single M6 with the wrong enclosure. Or you could use it more carefully to power a pair. The difference by ear between 600 and 1200 watts is truly not enough to cause shoulders to shrug. You can get the same difference by building a larg4er sealed box. Or for even greater amounts of bass, as you are obviously seeking, go ported.
I would say it depends greatly on the enclosure. You could waste 1200 watts on a single M6 with the wrong enclosure. Or you could use it more carefully to power a pair. The difference by ear between 600 and 1200 watts is truly not enough to cause shoulders to shrug. You can get the same difference by building a larg4er sealed box. Or for even greater amounts of bass, as you are obviously seeking, go ported.
02-12-2003, 10:22 PM
#8
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Originally posted by jmax
Explain "less shaky". Are you saying hte system has the traditional boomy sound quality? If so it could be many things.
Explain "less shaky". Are you saying hte system has the traditional boomy sound quality? If so it could be many things.
02-12-2003, 10:36 PM
#9
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Originally posted by Ma><iManiac
My old subs did. The new Diamond is a lot firmer, but I was wondering if I went with an amp that could drive the sub closer to it's max, if it would sound even more "firm". What do you think? BTW, running in a single 12" sealed enclosure. I am going for SQ, NOT SPL.
My old subs did. The new Diamond is a lot firmer, but I was wondering if I went with an amp that could drive the sub closer to it's max, if it would sound even more "firm". What do you think? BTW, running in a single 12" sealed enclosure. I am going for SQ, NOT SPL.
Also keep in mind to give the sub a "breaking in" period.
--Don
02-12-2003, 10:51 PM
#10
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What Don is saying is a possibility. I remember when I first hooked up a MacDaddy it took a good month to break in. Then it was a bit more efficient. A small box is a good way to keep from going beyond X-max. But it won't keep you from frying the voice coil with too much power. I would not try to exceed Diamonds recommendations by much.
And I still need a better description of your problem.
And I still need a better description of your problem.
02-12-2003, 11:02 PM
#11
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Originally posted by jmax
What Don is saying is a possibility. I remember when I first hooked up a MacDaddy it took a good month to break in. Then it was a bit more efficient. A small box is a good way to keep from going beyond X-max. But it won't keep you from frying the voice coil with too much power. I would not try to exceed Diamonds recommendations by much.
And I still need a better description of your problem.
What Don is saying is a possibility. I remember when I first hooked up a MacDaddy it took a good month to break in. Then it was a bit more efficient. A small box is a good way to keep from going beyond X-max. But it won't keep you from frying the voice coil with too much power. I would not try to exceed Diamonds recommendations by much.
And I still need a better description of your problem.
As far as a better description of my problem..That's difficult to do as it's something you can only describe by actually hearing it. The bass is more solid with the new sub. The tones are clearer, and less raw rumble. Just a tighter overall sound. I just wonder if I could get even more of that with more amps. Apperantly 1200W should be no problem for that sub, according to Don. But, that is just more money for me to spend, that could really go to paying off some debt. I just want something to consider for later down the line I guess. I still have to shell out $170 for a viper alarm, and I want my windows tinted. If you still dont get what I'm sayin, don't worry about it. I need to let the sub break in anyway. Thanks for your help though.
Lloyd
02-13-2003, 07:27 AM
#12
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The bass being tighter probably has more to do with the enclosure / sub relationship than the exact power output of the amp. 100 dB is not abnormal for a single watt of power in car audio. You can do the formual's for doubling amp power and the relative increases in SPL. I think you have to have ten times the power to gain 3, 6, or 10 dB. I really don't remember the formuala. There is a very definite point where the sub will sound louder but will not measure as much louder. This is where distorion starts to play in. If it starts to "sound loud", it's most likely distortion. If you look at a speaker on a graph as you increase power output should increase in a linear manner. When the output compresses, that's because the sub has reached it's linear limit. More power will not be louder as the sub can move no more air than what it is at full excursion. The only way to move more air would be to go beyond the linear limit, or use a port. Well, there may be a few other ways to do it but don't worry about that now.
02-13-2003, 07:43 AM
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Originally posted by jmax
The bass being tighter probably has more to do with the enclosure / sub relationship than the exact power output of the amp. 100 dB is not abnormal for a single watt of power in car audio. You can do the formual's for doubling amp power and the relative increases in SPL. I think you have to have ten times the power to gain 3, 6, or 10 dB. I really don't remember the formuala. There is a very definite point where the sub will sound louder but will not measure as much louder. This is where distorion starts to play in. If it starts to "sound loud", it's most likely distortion. If you look at a speaker on a graph as you increase power output should increase in a linear manner. When the output compresses, that's because the sub has reached it's linear limit. More power will not be louder as the sub can move no more air than what it is at full excursion. The only way to move more air would be to go beyond the linear limit, or use a port. Well, there may be a few other ways to do it but don't worry about that now.
The bass being tighter probably has more to do with the enclosure / sub relationship than the exact power output of the amp. 100 dB is not abnormal for a single watt of power in car audio. You can do the formual's for doubling amp power and the relative increases in SPL. I think you have to have ten times the power to gain 3, 6, or 10 dB. I really don't remember the formuala. There is a very definite point where the sub will sound louder but will not measure as much louder. This is where distorion starts to play in. If it starts to "sound loud", it's most likely distortion. If you look at a speaker on a graph as you increase power output should increase in a linear manner. When the output compresses, that's because the sub has reached it's linear limit. More power will not be louder as the sub can move no more air than what it is at full excursion. The only way to move more air would be to go beyond the linear limit, or use a port. Well, there may be a few other ways to do it but don't worry about that now.
I don't want louder. I want tighter, more solid bass. I can't explain it.
02-13-2003, 07:55 AM
#14
Originally posted by Ma><iManiac
I don't want louder. I want tighter, more solid bass. I can't explain it.
I don't want louder. I want tighter, more solid bass. I can't explain it.
02-13-2003, 08:53 AM
#15
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People often think they can judge how loud a sub is with their ears. But our ears are horrible at distinguishing differences in fidelity in the low frequencies. I would say that it is somewhat the enclosure, and somewhat your impression of what good bass should be. Tight is in the mid-bass, not sub bass. If you want more tight bass raise your crossover frequency.
02-13-2003, 09:28 AM
#16
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Originally posted by jmax
People often think they can judge how loud a sub is with their ears. But our ears are horrible at distinguishing differences in fidelity in the low frequencies. I would say that it is somewhat the enclosure, and somewhat your impression of what good bass should be. Tight is in the mid-bass, not sub bass. If you want more tight bass raise your crossover frequency.
People often think they can judge how loud a sub is with their ears. But our ears are horrible at distinguishing differences in fidelity in the low frequencies. I would say that it is somewhat the enclosure, and somewhat your impression of what good bass should be. Tight is in the mid-bass, not sub bass. If you want more tight bass raise your crossover frequency.
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