I just try to install subs to the bose system. i tapped the left side rear speakers and ran all the wires now when i try to turn on my car the radio does not work the fuses all look good and so does the relays for the radio. does anyone know how the radio security system works and how to reset it so i can try to see if that is the problem or has anyone tried this and had the same thing happen to them. it is a 97 maxima

 

I didn't know the radio had a security system. Is your radio doing anything? ...like turning on, any LEDS lighting up, just no sound, etc???

 

I just went out and check the fuses and it's still good. I didn't think the radio had the security system but it was worth a try. The radio is completely dead. Everything else in the car seems to be working fine except the radio. It just won't turn on. I tried to search the forum but it didn't work.

 

Did you remove the radio at all? Where did you connect the amp from?

 

I didn't remove the radio. I tapped wires from the back speakers to the converter to the amp.

 

I'm not sure what that could be. Tapping into the wires going from the amp to the speaker shouldn't cause that. Are you sure you tapped the right wire? Also, did you change or connect anything else besides the speaker wires? How's your remote wire connected?

 

I went to http://home.earthlink.net/~maxfaq/ and followed the directions. Solid red wire to remote and green and other red wire to + and -.

 

Sorry, bud. I wish I could think of something. If you were close to where I live, I'd meet up with you and see if we could get it going. At this point, all I can think of is try disconnecting the aftermarket stuff. Try geting it back on as it was before you began. Then you can try connecting one thing at a time.

 

disconnect the battery and then reconnect after about 15 minutes. that should work.



gange

 

i think u should disconnect the battery. that could help you.

 

I did something similar with my Bose system. I blew three Bose amps before I got it tuned right. Tapping into those wires that go from the amp to the speaker can cause the amp to overheat and fry. You have to make sure that whatever you run the wires to (whether it is an adaptor or a high-level input on an amp) has a very high resistance so it won't overdraw the amp.

When a Bose amp fries, it causes a fuse to blow. The blown fuse cuts power to the three good amps, thus there is no sound. If I recall correctly the fuse is labelled "Bose" (can't remember if it is 7.5 or 15 amps), and is located in the right hand column of the fuse panel under the steering wheel. Simply changing the fuse doesn't help, because it immediately blose again when the system is turned back on. Try disconnecting your left rear Bose amp (from the car, not from the speaker), then change the fuse, and see if you get sound again in three speakers.

 

what kind of converter, amp, and subs (size/quantity) do you have?

 

I bought the converter from Tweeters, mtx amp, 10" alpine s-series.

 

you only got 1 ten... man.. i have 3 10's... but my system is not in... i need a converter.. but don't know what kind to get!

 

Disconnect the battery for 10 to 15 mins.
I had the same problem and that worked for me.

 

Converter: *PAC model # SNI-35* (This is what converts the signal to the crossover from the Bose)

 

why don't you just tap it from before it gets to the amp? or is there a greater risk of it drawing to much from the HU? either way its best just to replace the whole damn thing...but i'm about to do the same thing in a month with my 2 L7s heh

--torgus

 

actually there was a write up in a issue of lowrider magazine that tells you how to do this with a stock stereo. You did need a converter but it was a high to low converter. I still have the issue and I'll try to scan the pages. Maybe this is will anyone that might need it...I plan to do this, it's just a matter of time to actually do it.

 

check every fuse. there is another one you are forgetting, "audio" "misc" i dont know what its called, just pull every fuse you have in there haha checkin 1 at a time, i can almost promise thats the prob.

also , as far as a converter, yes a PAC SNI-35 will convert the signal to your rca's and allow minimal adjustment, but the problem is you need to amp that signal if you want your system to really sound better or be louder. bose puts too low of a signal to really use, so you need something like what i purchased, an audiocontrol over-drive box to amp the lines after they are converted. you can find both converter/amps together. my overdrive box allows for me to adjust that signal as high as i want it, it made a world of a difference with subs.

 

huh? most modern amplifiers do just that, amplify the signal.. if it is low, then you can adjust the gain and what not..

 

So all I need is the converter... to hook my 3 subs/amp/and stock bose unit together?

 

an amp wiring kit too, but i bet you knew that

 

The way I recomend doing it is to get an RCA Line Converter (cheap ugly ones are available on eBay, you can also get one by asking for it by name at a store that does audio installs), twist together the right and left input positive leads and tap them into your positive speaker wire, twist together the right and left negative input leads and tap them into your negative input wire (note that it's best to get all your signal from a single speaker), turn the converter signal level pretty low (like 33% or less to minimize the risk of blowing your Bose amp), and run RCA cables from the converter to your amp's low-level input.

 

I also have my bose set up with the pac sni-35, alpine amp, and 2 jl 12w3's. I never heard of anyone mentioning the "audiocontrol over-drive box." I was curious of where I can get that (I am assuming any car audio place), the exact name, and how much it cost. I am also wondering if anyone else has used this in there setup and how it sounds. Thanks.

 

is there a problem with your current setup that would lead you to want a "audiocontrol over-drive box"?

 

well, alot of my friends have box's with similar or even less comparable setups and mine doenst sound as loud as it should be.

 

using mentioned above PAC-SNI35 and only improvemant I noticed was when i left the trunk open, when it stayed closed there was no sound improvemant, i think it has to do with sound pressure ways ,
but i might be wrong, overall i'm not satisfied at all.....
will try to splice the left and right channels on PAC and see how that works....

 

Then something else may be to blame, i've seen and heard systems with the converter that where just as loud on comparable systems on cars with pure rca outputs. The only thing that I am concerned about when I plan to put a box into my maxima is that the SQ (sound quality) may not be as great, iam not in it for the SPL really. The converter will definatley not sound anywhere as clear and crisp as it would sound coming from RCA out's.


Dave