ok, so the tweeters are 4 ohm...

what are the rest of the speakers...all of them?

what can i replace them with...

I want to keep the stock head unit...looks more adult.

thanks

-vq

 

Good question....bump.

 

thanks for the bump....bump

-vq

 

The Speakers ohm out as follows:

Front Tweeters: 4 ohm (Actual 3.7)
Front door (6 1/2): 1.7 ohm

Back Doors (6 1/2): 2.2 Ohms

These are what mine are in my 2003. I have started replacing most all of the factory equipment. I will have pictures posted soon of the (2) JL 8ww3v2's in a sealed enclosure mounted up in my back deck soon.

Shane

 

so I have to replace EVERYTHING?

does anyone make a 2.2 ohm speaker? or a 1.7 ohm speaker? Those are both pretty close to 2 ohms...

how many ohms in a regular house speaker...maybe I could buy a 2 ohm HI-end house speaker, and drop it in? I really don't want to get rid of the factory look...

are regular house speakers 8 ohm? or 2 ohm? or what?

-vq

 

what about the sub in the 2k3 rear deck?

-vq

 

Most home speakers are 8 ohm drivers. The subwoofer is a 1 Ohm driver with it's own built in amp on the bottom of the speaker. What I did was replace the factory amp with a JL Audio 500/5 (5-Channel amplifier. This amp will run a 1.5 ohm load and still stay stable. I am switching out all the drivers, but I have been running this amp on all the factory highs without a problem. No one that I know of makes a 2 ohm midrange or tweeter that I know of. I kept the factory deck also for now.

Shane

 

ok, front I'm going to try and understand everything

FLT-front left tweeter 3.7 ohms
FRT-front right tweeter 3.7 ohms
FLM-front left mid 1.7 ohms
FRM-front right mid 1.7 ohms
RLM-rear left mid 2.2 ohms
RRM-rear right mid 2.2 ohms
SUB-sub - 1 ohm

now how many amps are there?

how do they get there signal? low level, speaker level...

and if there are more than one amp, which amp drives what speakers...

what is each amps output (watts rms) what is each amps input

give me every detail you know...

thanks for the help.

-vq

 

bump

 

Do yourself a favor and just get one of those Bose converters to hook the factory Bose HU to an aftermarket amp and rip out everything but the HU. Still looks "adult" (a.k.a. theft deterent) and it'll be easier than trying to match ohms (btw, home speakers are usually either 4 or 8 ohms). You could even get a free air sub for the rear deck. Heck, the easiest would be to get one of those JL infinite baffle subs and the JL 500/5 (100w x 2, 25w x 2, 250w x 1) mount the amp on the back of the fold down seats and the sub in the stock location and there you go, completely stock looking.

(didn't mean to plug JL, just an example setup)

 

where can I buy a "Bose converter"? what do they cost?

thanks

-vq

 

Check the audio forum FAQ. I wrote about this a bunch.

And BTW... the stock HU is a good portion of the problem with the Bose setup. It's not worthy of carrying the Bose name.

But on the flip side, it does look nice.

 

nice write ups...

but I couldn't find out where to purchase one.

-vq

 

If your just going to add in an amp put in line out converters. This is what I have in my car. From what I understand on the BOSE in the 2k3 is that you need to take the signal before the amp. If you take the signal after the amp you get all the weird bose eq cr@p. There are plenty of g35 guys that have done this and shouldn't really be any different on your car other than wire colors I would think.