Please post if you kept your Bose HU and added Subs
#1
Please post if you kept your Bose HU and added Subs
I am interested in those who kept the Bose HU but added couple of subs and an amp..
I have a 600watt amp.. 4 way bridgable i believe.. not sure what other specs are on it.. and 3 10's JBL in a box... now I wanna know how to set it up.. i know i need an adapter.. but will this be enough to make 3 10's work.. or should i only use 2 10's?
I have a 600watt amp.. 4 way bridgable i believe.. not sure what other specs are on it.. and 3 10's JBL in a box... now I wanna know how to set it up.. i know i need an adapter.. but will this be enough to make 3 10's work.. or should i only use 2 10's?
#2
I've got two 12s with Bose system. Do you know what the impedence rating is for those subs? Also, you said your amp is 4 way bridgeable. Is it bridgeable to one channel, or just two? Matching the impedence of the amp to the speakers is the key. A mismatch could damage your stuff. If your subs are 4ohm each, I would just use two and hook the amp up 2-channel If your amp is bridgeable to one channel, you may be able to use all three.
#3
I used the PAC AOEM-NIS2 to add an Eclipse Aluminum 12 and powered it with a Alpine MRD-M500....WOW! It will THUMP!!! It can sound much better than stock, but now the bass tends to overpower the rest of the system if I turn the bass up.
#5
damnit i have 2 10" JL's sittin in my house... it was my cousin's old subs. The crappy part is i can't find a model number or anything to identify it!!! is there somewhere i should look or any way to find out???
#6
Originally posted by nadir_s
damnit i have 2 10" JL's sittin in my house... it was my cousin's old subs. The crappy part is i can't find a model number or anything to identify it!!! is there somewhere i should look or any way to find out???
damnit i have 2 10" JL's sittin in my house... it was my cousin's old subs. The crappy part is i can't find a model number or anything to identify it!!! is there somewhere i should look or any way to find out???
#7
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if ur amp have speaker level input then there is no adaptor needed...just tap into the audio signal before it gets amplified by the bose amp...then just adjust ur gain accordingly...u can also use the power lead for the bose amp as an remote for the amp...now if ur amp don't have that...which alot of amps now days should have...u need to buy speaker to rca adaptor...very cheap..like 15 bux...
#8
if ur amp have speaker level input then there is no adaptor needed...just tap into the audio signal before it gets amplified by the bose amp...then just adjust ur gain accordingly...u can also use the power lead for the bose amp as an remote for the amp...now if ur amp don't have that...which alot of amps now days should have...u need to buy speaker to rca adaptor...very cheap..like 15 bux...
In the Audio Forum FAQ, I posted some links that will help you find what you are looking for. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 is the kit that you'll need.
#9
Originally posted by erty67
I think they might say the model # on the magnet. Try taking one out of the box and see
I think they might say the model # on the magnet. Try taking one out of the box and see
#10
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by studman
Don't use speaker level inputs on the amp. The additional resistance will cause the Bose amp/HU to overwork itself and burn out (per CarStereoHelp.com, a place that repairs Bose systems). Plus, the sound will not be as loud (nor as clean) as you can get it using the PAC kit.
In the Audio Forum FAQ, I posted some links that will help you find what you are looking for. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 is the kit that you'll need.
Don't use speaker level inputs on the amp. The additional resistance will cause the Bose amp/HU to overwork itself and burn out (per CarStereoHelp.com, a place that repairs Bose systems). Plus, the sound will not be as loud (nor as clean) as you can get it using the PAC kit.
In the Audio Forum FAQ, I posted some links that will help you find what you are looking for. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 is the kit that you'll need.
#11
An idea
Just an idea. Check if there is a JL Audio dealer in your area and bring the sub in to them. They might be your best bet to find out what they are. I looked at all the 10" JL subs before I bought mine, there is a lot of physical difference in the speakers-magnet sizes, metal used in construction of the frame, etc. By the way, my system sound MUCH better with just getting new subs and trashing the BOSE sub.
Mike
Mike
Originally posted by nadir_s
i tried... the speakers are outta the box. I have no idea how to tell... i can't believe they didn't put a number on it. The only thing on is it a big JL Audio sticker on the back of the magnet.
i tried... the speakers are outta the box. I have no idea how to tell... i can't believe they didn't put a number on it. The only thing on is it a big JL Audio sticker on the back of the magnet.
#12
i ran speaker level input from one speaker to the amp/sub and every time i pressed gas i would hear anoying high pitch noise...couldnt handle it after 2 weeks and disconnected everything...i heard that audi has the same problem when connected aftermarket to factory HU
#13
Originally posted by RollingInI30
i ran speaker level input from one speaker to the amp/sub and every time i pressed gas i would hear anoying high pitch noise...couldnt handle it after 2 weeks and disconnected everything...i heard that audi has the same problem when connected aftermarket to factory HU
i ran speaker level input from one speaker to the amp/sub and every time i pressed gas i would hear anoying high pitch noise...couldnt handle it after 2 weeks and disconnected everything...i heard that audi has the same problem when connected aftermarket to factory HU
#14
Originally posted by Cumalittle
u tap into the unamplified signal...shouldn't effect the bose amp because it is before the amp...if u tap after the bose amp then the signal is double amplified...meaning ur aftermarket amplifier will amplify the noise along w/ the audio...plus the signal is just for the woofers...human ears could hardly tell the difference...that adaptor u r referring to is good...but it's cost more then the adaptor i'm talking about...
u tap into the unamplified signal...shouldn't effect the bose amp because it is before the amp...if u tap after the bose amp then the signal is double amplified...meaning ur aftermarket amplifier will amplify the noise along w/ the audio...plus the signal is just for the woofers...human ears could hardly tell the difference...that adaptor u r referring to is good...but it's cost more then the adaptor i'm talking about...
I need to get an adapter, but I had other issues that had to be dealt with first.
#16
I went with an Infinity Basslink and kept the Bose in. I took out the Bose sub however and used the hole as a port. Sounds awesome. I don't listen to the rap stuff so I don't what kind of thump you're lookin for, but I love the Basslink. I have a ton of trunk room too!
#17
I recently just installed my Coustic D-block amp and added 2 Coustic CarbonFiber 10"s..kept the BOSE HU..all you need is the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit..simple plug-n-play and runs about $60...I ordered mine from http://www.affsave.com/pac5.htm and was able to get it "next-day" shipping..good customer service! The sound is real clean and the bass hits hard..gotta keep my Bass level at -5 and had to turn down my gains on the amp...good way to save money if you keep the stock BOSE HU..plus u cant beat a in-dash 6 cd changer!
#18
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by phenryiv1
Did you actually do it this way, or is this just a theory? I tried that and it sounded like crap. I then did it after the amplifier (against recommendations) and it sounds fine for just the sbus. You are right about the double amplification, but for subs it weas not a nbig deal.
I need to get an adapter, but I had other issues that had to be dealt with first.
Did you actually do it this way, or is this just a theory? I tried that and it sounded like crap. I then did it after the amplifier (against recommendations) and it sounds fine for just the sbus. You are right about the double amplification, but for subs it weas not a nbig deal.
I need to get an adapter, but I had other issues that had to be dealt with first.
#19
Originally posted by Cumalittle
yep...i've done it both way also...after thinking it over and over...i had better result w/ before the amp...yes...for just subs...after is fine...it mite even be louder cuz signal is stronger...maybe that was ur case...i found less hiss noise tapping in before the amp...
yep...i've done it both way also...after thinking it over and over...i had better result w/ before the amp...yes...for just subs...after is fine...it mite even be louder cuz signal is stronger...maybe that was ur case...i found less hiss noise tapping in before the amp...
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