bose amp
#4
Trust me on this one. Go into the trunk and unplug the Bose amp. All the connections will die. However, if you check the Bose sub connections, you'll find two of them is +12v, one is ground, and the other 2 are the signal. If the sub wasn't self powered, then why would it need 2 power signals? (One is always +12v, the other is the amp turn-on)
#5
Originally posted by studman
Trust me on this one. Go into the trunk and unplug the Bose amp. All the connections will die. However, if you check the Bose sub connections, you'll find two of them is +12v, one is ground, and the other 2 are the signal. If the sub wasn't self powered, then why would it need 2 power signals? (One is always +12v, the other is the amp turn-on)
Trust me on this one. Go into the trunk and unplug the Bose amp. All the connections will die. However, if you check the Bose sub connections, you'll find two of them is +12v, one is ground, and the other 2 are the signal. If the sub wasn't self powered, then why would it need 2 power signals? (One is always +12v, the other is the amp turn-on)
#6
It connects behind the HU. You remove the factory connector from the HU and insert it into the PAC AOEM-NIS2. Then you insert the cable from the PAC AOEM-NIS2 into the factory HU. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 has an additional cable with 4 RCA output jacks on it that you use to hook up aftermarket subs/amps/etc. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 doesn't interrupt the signals coming from the factory HU to the factory amp, but it does "copy" them. I don't have a picture handy with me, but I've got access to a camera and the AOEM-NIS2 kit. I'll try to get some pictures posted up soon. You can view a simple diagram of the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit at http://www.go2pac.com/oem1kits/oem1search.htm. The AOEM-NIS2 kit is the one on the top, and is designed to tap the factory signals for adding additional speakers and subs. The ROEM-NIS2 kit is the one on the bottom, and is designed to allow you to replace the factory HU, while keeping the factory amps and subs.
#7
Originally posted by studman
It connects behind the HU. You remove the factory connector from the HU and insert it into the PAC AOEM-NIS2. Then you insert the cable from the PAC AOEM-NIS2 into the factory HU. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 has an additional cable with 4 RCA output jacks on it that you use to hook up aftermarket subs/amps/etc. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 doesn't interrupt the signals coming from the factory HU to the factory amp, but it does "copy" them. I don't have a picture handy with me, but I've got access to a camera and the AOEM-NIS2 kit. I'll try to get some pictures posted up soon. You can view a simple diagram of the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit at http://www.go2pac.com/oem1kits/oem1search.htm. The AOEM-NIS2 kit is the one on the top, and is designed to tap the factory signals for adding additional speakers and subs. The ROEM-NIS2 kit is the one on the bottom, and is designed to allow you to replace the factory HU, while keeping the factory amps and subs.
It connects behind the HU. You remove the factory connector from the HU and insert it into the PAC AOEM-NIS2. Then you insert the cable from the PAC AOEM-NIS2 into the factory HU. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 has an additional cable with 4 RCA output jacks on it that you use to hook up aftermarket subs/amps/etc. The PAC AOEM-NIS2 doesn't interrupt the signals coming from the factory HU to the factory amp, but it does "copy" them. I don't have a picture handy with me, but I've got access to a camera and the AOEM-NIS2 kit. I'll try to get some pictures posted up soon. You can view a simple diagram of the PAC AOEM-NIS2 kit at http://www.go2pac.com/oem1kits/oem1search.htm. The AOEM-NIS2 kit is the one on the top, and is designed to tap the factory signals for adding additional speakers and subs. The ROEM-NIS2 kit is the one on the bottom, and is designed to allow you to replace the factory HU, while keeping the factory amps and subs.
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