Anyone no where i can purchase this?
07-20-2003, 08:38 AM
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 397
try here...
http://www.discountave.net/powerwires.html
http://www.discountave.net/powerwires.html
07-21-2003, 08:39 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
It is good cable. With the name brand stuff you are looking for you are only paying for a name. These companies sell miles of cable for high power applications that make our stereo's look like kids toys, which they are.
http://www.aiwc.com/catalogsection/prodsdisplay.htm
http://www.kalaswire.com/welding.htm
http://www.superioressex.com/
And I think these are dealers. But most of the internet prices aren't enough better than local welding shops to make it worth the wait.
http://www.batteryservice.com/table.htm
http://www.weldingdepot.com/?source=overture
http://www.aiwc.com/catalogsection/prodsdisplay.htm
http://www.kalaswire.com/welding.htm
http://www.superioressex.com/
And I think these are dealers. But most of the internet prices aren't enough better than local welding shops to make it worth the wait.
http://www.batteryservice.com/table.htm
http://www.weldingdepot.com/?source=overture
07-21-2003, 12:25 PM
#6
Be careful, there IS a difference in cable.
Smaller stranded copper wire, like in higher quality power wire, has more current capability and is much more flexible than the usual welding cable.
Insulation thickness and material can also be different. Critical when the jacket is too stiff and could crack in a heat/freeze cycle under the hood and short out. Yeah, I know the fuse at the battery would blow, but why take the chance.
Go ahead and get 0 guage from someone off of eBay. Many more terminals, connectors and fuse holders are available than in 2 guage.
Smaller stranded copper wire, like in higher quality power wire, has more current capability and is much more flexible than the usual welding cable.
Insulation thickness and material can also be different. Critical when the jacket is too stiff and could crack in a heat/freeze cycle under the hood and short out. Yeah, I know the fuse at the battery would blow, but why take the chance.
Go ahead and get 0 guage from someone off of eBay. Many more terminals, connectors and fuse holders are available than in 2 guage.
07-21-2003, 01:09 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 118
Originally posted by largestal
Be careful, there IS a difference in cable.
Smaller stranded copper wire, like in higher quality power wire, has more current capability and is much more flexible than the usual welding cable.
Insulation thickness and material can also be different. Critical when the jacket is too stiff and could crack in a heat/freeze cycle under the hood and short out. Yeah, I know the fuse at the battery would blow, but why take the chance.
Go ahead and get 0 guage from someone off of eBay. Many more terminals, connectors and fuse holders are available than in 2 guage.
Be careful, there IS a difference in cable.
Smaller stranded copper wire, like in higher quality power wire, has more current capability and is much more flexible than the usual welding cable.
Insulation thickness and material can also be different. Critical when the jacket is too stiff and could crack in a heat/freeze cycle under the hood and short out. Yeah, I know the fuse at the battery would blow, but why take the chance.
Go ahead and get 0 guage from someone off of eBay. Many more terminals, connectors and fuse holders are available than in 2 guage.
True...
07-22-2003, 03:06 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
You guys must be gettin' your welding cable off of ebay for about 2 cents a foot for 0 gauge. The stuff at the place I shop is high quality, flexible, thick 105 degree Celcius insulation, etc. And still a fraction of the name brand cost. If you are seriously that worried about it not carrying the current you need or the flexibility get twice as much wire and run it the length twice. It will still save you money. I have some welding cable twice the thickness of my Stinger 1/0 that is flexible enough to run under the carpet.
07-23-2003, 07:58 AM
#9
105 degrees celsius is just around 220 degrees farenheit, right above water boiling. I guarantee the parts under my hood get hotter than that.
Flexibility might be an issue, but bigger issues are: 1. abrasion resistance and 2. how the insulation reacts to not only the heat under the hood, but how it reacts when it is 0 degrees outside and you subject it to engine compartment heat and then it freezes again after you park your vehicle.
I am not wanting to start any arguments, I am just speaking from 15+ years in and out of A/V install in cars, trucks, boats, Big Rigs, Rv's etc.
Either way, be careful. That big wire can carry A LOT of juice and don't put all you trust in a fuse, they can screw up too!
Be groovy.
Flexibility might be an issue, but bigger issues are: 1. abrasion resistance and 2. how the insulation reacts to not only the heat under the hood, but how it reacts when it is 0 degrees outside and you subject it to engine compartment heat and then it freezes again after you park your vehicle.
I am not wanting to start any arguments, I am just speaking from 15+ years in and out of A/V install in cars, trucks, boats, Big Rigs, Rv's etc.
Either way, be careful. That big wire can carry A LOT of juice and don't put all you trust in a fuse, they can screw up too!
Be groovy.
07-23-2003, 08:27 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, auto makers recommend 105 degree celcius. That's why I posted that number. The same cable is rated down to -50 degrees celcius, or -58 degrees fahrenheit. -20 degrees fahrenheit is rare enough where I live that I am very comfortable with this cable. Show me a welding shop with less abrasives than your moving car. People get ripped off on cable every minute of every day. Don't be one of them.
Originally posted by largestal
105 degrees celsius is just around 220 degrees farenheit, right above water boiling. I guarantee the parts under my hood get hotter than that.
Flexibility might be an issue, but bigger issues are: 1. abrasion resistance and 2. how the insulation reacts to not only the heat under the hood, but how it reacts when it is 0 degrees outside and you subject it to engine compartment heat and then it freezes again after you park your vehicle.
I am not wanting to start any arguments, I am just speaking from 15+ years in and out of A/V install in cars, trucks, boats, Big Rigs, Rv's etc.
Either way, be careful. That big wire can carry A LOT of juice and don't put all you trust in a fuse, they can screw up too!
Be groovy.
105 degrees celsius is just around 220 degrees farenheit, right above water boiling. I guarantee the parts under my hood get hotter than that.
Flexibility might be an issue, but bigger issues are: 1. abrasion resistance and 2. how the insulation reacts to not only the heat under the hood, but how it reacts when it is 0 degrees outside and you subject it to engine compartment heat and then it freezes again after you park your vehicle.
I am not wanting to start any arguments, I am just speaking from 15+ years in and out of A/V install in cars, trucks, boats, Big Rigs, Rv's etc.
Either way, be careful. That big wire can carry A LOT of juice and don't put all you trust in a fuse, they can screw up too!
Be groovy.
07-23-2003, 04:10 PM
#11
so largestal...being in the industry for so long you muct have an idea bout prices... installing AV components and what not. what is the price a store pays for the cable compaired to a customer. my buddy works at a local car audio place and says they pay next to nothing for there cable...its where they make their money. just curious...when i go for my cable i'll be getting 2 guage cheap ****, instead of 4 guage expensive stuff...just incase the cable has a horrible threadcount/purity of the copper.....just my 2 centz
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