Don't move!! no response in audio forum!!!
10-01-2003, 02:08 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 259
Don't move!! no response in audio forum!!!
I'm gonna ask this again in here cause I got no response in the audio forum!
Has anyone replaced their bose speakers in their 4th gen with any type of aftermarket components? I had bought a new hu about 2 years ago, and just hardwired the existing bose speakers to the regular line outs on the new hu. These worked great up until 3 weeks ago when I blew the lf mid/door. Thankfully, I had already purchased a pair of Orion XTR 6.5 components, but I had looked at the wiring for the bose and decieded to put it off until they blow. Well, now that they have, I must face the inevitable and deal with the retarded bose wiring. I guess I really just want to know if it is really difficult to replace? I will be running new wire, but I still need to cut the old bose stuff. I think I'm more concerned with replacing the tweeters in the pillar. I'd like to place the new ones in the pillar, but I'd like to avoid a total hack job on the pillars. Anyway, if anyone has some advice or pics from an install, I would really appreciate it.
Has anyone replaced their bose speakers in their 4th gen with any type of aftermarket components? I had bought a new hu about 2 years ago, and just hardwired the existing bose speakers to the regular line outs on the new hu. These worked great up until 3 weeks ago when I blew the lf mid/door. Thankfully, I had already purchased a pair of Orion XTR 6.5 components, but I had looked at the wiring for the bose and decieded to put it off until they blow. Well, now that they have, I must face the inevitable and deal with the retarded bose wiring. I guess I really just want to know if it is really difficult to replace? I will be running new wire, but I still need to cut the old bose stuff. I think I'm more concerned with replacing the tweeters in the pillar. I'd like to place the new ones in the pillar, but I'd like to avoid a total hack job on the pillars. Anyway, if anyone has some advice or pics from an install, I would really appreciate it.
10-01-2003, 11:00 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 175
Well I guess you have a few different questions and I will give you my experience. First off, BOSE setups are factory amplified. If you use a new head unit with your BOSE amp, bad things happen. Usually when you are running a high output deck. How the speakers lasted 3 years is amazing to me. Usually when you put a cd player in a car with an amp, bad things happen quickly. Anyways, just forget about the bose amp and stick with deck power to an aftermarket amp for your components. If you don't have an aftermarket amp, just run the components off your cd player power UNTIL you can afford an amp. There is no point in having components if you aren't gonna run a good amp to them. If you don't plan on purchasing an amp, then go get yourself a set of coaxials and pocket the left over money. You will need to wire all the speakers from the cd player to each speaker. Typically in sounds best with just the front components on and leave the rear speakers off completely (this is if you plan to put a good amp to them). Just run speaker wire from the purple and green wires (I believe....maybe it is the white and gray....one or the other) through the doors to the speaker area. Pretty simple and you will be happy to get rid of BOSE (as we say in the audio world "No Highs, No Lows, Must be BOSE"
Secondly, just cut the wires for the pillar tweeters and mount the tweeters from the components in the doors. A major sound quality thing I have learned from competing in the IASCA and USAC organizations is that the closer the woofer in the door and tweeter are to each other the better. Pillar mounted tweeters are ok for a weak factory system, but not a great idea for your only set of tweeters. If you get a set in the doors or in a kick panel, then you can add a set in the pillar IN ADDITION to them. Most components come with a pod to mount in the door and all you need is a circular bit and drill and some hot glue. I did it in my max and it looks very factory and sounds AMAZING. I drilled right below the door handle and right by the inset in the in the door panel that goes into the dash when you close the door....hard to explain, but you'll see when you pull the door panel off. Fun project and I wish ya the best!
Secondly, just cut the wires for the pillar tweeters and mount the tweeters from the components in the doors. A major sound quality thing I have learned from competing in the IASCA and USAC organizations is that the closer the woofer in the door and tweeter are to each other the better. Pillar mounted tweeters are ok for a weak factory system, but not a great idea for your only set of tweeters. If you get a set in the doors or in a kick panel, then you can add a set in the pillar IN ADDITION to them. Most components come with a pod to mount in the door and all you need is a circular bit and drill and some hot glue. I did it in my max and it looks very factory and sounds AMAZING. I drilled right below the door handle and right by the inset in the in the door panel that goes into the dash when you close the door....hard to explain, but you'll see when you pull the door panel off. Fun project and I wish ya the best!
10-02-2003, 11:10 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 259
Originally Posted by nismoluvr
Well I guess you have a few different questions and I will give you my experience. First off, BOSE setups are factory amplified. If you use a new head unit with your BOSE amp, bad things happen. Usually when you are running a high output deck. How the speakers lasted 3 years is amazing to me. Usually when you put a cd player in a car with an amp, bad things happen quickly. Anyways, just forget about the bose amp and stick with deck power to an aftermarket amp for your components. If you don't have an aftermarket amp, just run the components off your cd player power UNTIL you can afford an amp. There is no point in having components if you aren't gonna run a good amp to them. If you don't plan on purchasing an amp, then go get yourself a set of coaxials and pocket the left over money. You will need to wire all the speakers from the cd player to each speaker. Typically in sounds best with just the front components on and leave the rear speakers off completely (this is if you plan to put a good amp to them). Just run speaker wire from the purple and green wires (I believe....maybe it is the white and gray....one or the other) through the doors to the speaker area. Pretty simple and you will be happy to get rid of BOSE (as we say in the audio world "No Highs, No Lows, Must be BOSE"
Secondly, just cut the wires for the pillar tweeters and mount the tweeters from the components in the doors. A major sound quality thing I have learned from competing in the IASCA and USAC organizations is that the closer the woofer in the door and tweeter are to each other the better. Pillar mounted tweeters are ok for a weak factory system, but not a great idea for your only set of tweeters. If you get a set in the doors or in a kick panel, then you can add a set in the pillar IN ADDITION to them. Most components come with a pod to mount in the door and all you need is a circular bit and drill and some hot glue. I did it in my max and it looks very factory and sounds AMAZING. I drilled right below the door handle and right by the inset in the in the door panel that goes into the dash when you close the door....hard to explain, but you'll see when you pull the door panel off. Fun project and I wish ya the best!
Secondly, just cut the wires for the pillar tweeters and mount the tweeters from the components in the doors. A major sound quality thing I have learned from competing in the IASCA and USAC organizations is that the closer the woofer in the door and tweeter are to each other the better. Pillar mounted tweeters are ok for a weak factory system, but not a great idea for your only set of tweeters. If you get a set in the doors or in a kick panel, then you can add a set in the pillar IN ADDITION to them. Most components come with a pod to mount in the door and all you need is a circular bit and drill and some hot glue. I did it in my max and it looks very factory and sounds AMAZING. I drilled right below the door handle and right by the inset in the in the door panel that goes into the dash when you close the door....hard to explain, but you'll see when you pull the door panel off. Fun project and I wish ya the best!
10-02-2003, 12:41 PM
#7
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 159
Originally Posted by maxcross
BTW nismoluvr, what are you running? What's your best db?
10-02-2003, 02:31 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 175
Originally Posted by quiksand
$h!t on cutting the wires to the bose. keep them there incase you wanna sell the car and put the factory sound back in. Just run new wires from the HU to the new speakers. That'll be easier.
Just unplug the woofer and tape the clip (just to be safe).... The best DB I have pulled was 154.6, but that wasn't in the max. That was with 4 JL W-3 12's in a 1993 Eagle Talon.... Now I am into sound quality, but I bet I would be pushin 141-143 with it pumpin (only have 2 12's now)
10-03-2003, 06:41 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 259
Originally Posted by nismoluvr
Just unplug the woofer and tape the clip (just to be safe).... The best DB I have pulled was 154.6, but that wasn't in the max. That was with 4 JL W-3 12's in a 1993 Eagle Talon.... Now I am into sound quality, but I bet I would be pushin 141-143 with it pumpin (only have 2 12's now)
10-06-2003, 01:16 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 175
Originally Posted by maxcross
4 12" W3's got you 154.6 in a talon? My boy hit 145-146 w/ 2 10" HCCA's in the trunk of a Grand Prix, and around 140 (I think) in a Z28 w/ 1 12" HCCA. Both were damn clear too. Shocked the hell out of me the first time I heard them both. What do you have now?
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