Cutting back deck for 8" Sub
#1
Cutting back deck for 8" Sub
OK, due to cost of the JL6W0, I think i may go with the 8" Quatro from www.partsexpress.com instead. I already have a box I can use, that I was thinking I can bolt to the bottom of the rear deck. But I've never cut a deck before, and was wondering what the best way would be, to cut out the opening for the speaker to sit in. What I have planned is the sub to be bolted to the box, with a hole large enough for the speaker to slip though, with a hole cut in the deck cover, and a grill attached to it. Sound about right? Another question is, sould I just forgo cutting the hole and mount the sub upside down firing into the trunk instead? That would be MUCH easier, but I do want to give the GF the best sound I can, but just dont want a lot of hassle doing it......
#2
Is this going into the 1995? If so, just build spacer rings out of 3/4 MDF, and mount them to the rear deck where the 6 1/2's are. Seal them up with caulk, and Dynamat. You don't have to cut, just be a little creative. I just did 2 8s on the rear deck of an Audi A4, and they sound great.
#3
Thought about that, but I'm not going to be running a pair, they wont be IB, and she wants to keep the rear speakers. I'm going to just intall the box, with the sub facing bown in the trunk under the deck and see how she sounds.....
#6
Your talking about being cheap and cost and all, well cutting the deck is gonna cause problems if thats all you do. It's gonna take a good bit of custom work to make it work and sound good, more than just the cost of one sub.
#7
I think you all are missing what I'm trying to do. With what I have in mind, no, it wont be more expensive than the sub itself. After pricing everything I'll need, I'm looking at about $90 including the driver, since I already have the box. The basic I idea I've had in mind was to have the enclosure with bolts going though the deck down into the box, with a couple pieces of carpet padding sandwiched in between to help with vibrations, as well as dynamatting the entire rear deck on both sides (Actually Peel&Seal) as well as most of the trunk.The hole in the deck is suposed to be big enough so that the sub fits though, not actually attaching the driver to the deck. A hole cut out of the cardboard deck cover will be covered by a grill, and that grill along with the two stock grills will be covered with grill cloth.
A pretty straight forward install other than cutting the deck, and thats the only thing I was asking about, since I've never done it before.
A pretty straight forward install other than cutting the deck, and thats the only thing I was asking about, since I've never done it before.
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Sorry, I forget you name. You can do a simple sndwich style box. Cut a baffle for the driver to mount. That is the top piece of bread. The rear deck is the PB & J. The sealed enclosure under the deck is the bottom piece of bread. The issue will be to have the enclosure small enough that you don't interfere with those steel bars that stretch the width of the deck.
I would use something stronger than MDF for the baffle. That way you can use T-nuts and screw from the bottom up to the top to hold everything in place. Or you can put a 3/8 inch piece of plywood inside the enclosure and set the t-nuts on the back side of that. You need to drill the holes through the wooden baffle board and enclosure at the same time. You can likely use an empty cardboard box to hold up the enclosure snug to the bottom of the rear deck when you screw it together. Once the screws reach the t-nuts it will snug up tighter than - well I can't say that here.
Oh yeah, you can cut the deck with your roto-zip and a few cut off wheels. You'll want to mask your rear window so that metal shards don't mangle the tint.
I would use something stronger than MDF for the baffle. That way you can use T-nuts and screw from the bottom up to the top to hold everything in place. Or you can put a 3/8 inch piece of plywood inside the enclosure and set the t-nuts on the back side of that. You need to drill the holes through the wooden baffle board and enclosure at the same time. You can likely use an empty cardboard box to hold up the enclosure snug to the bottom of the rear deck when you screw it together. Once the screws reach the t-nuts it will snug up tighter than - well I can't say that here.
Oh yeah, you can cut the deck with your roto-zip and a few cut off wheels. You'll want to mask your rear window so that metal shards don't mangle the tint.
#9
Thanks Jmax.Thats pretty much the same Idea I had, but hadnt thought about a top baffle. That might be stronger than just hanging the box underneth the deck. The box I have and am planning on using will fit with no problems interfering with the rods, so I'm not worried about that.
Oh ya, its Jonathan
Oh ya, its Jonathan
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sctludwig
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
8
09-01-2022 01:32 PM
Maxima30
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
09-07-2015 06:13 PM
Justin Kroll
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
7
09-02-2015 11:06 AM