Tony Fernandes

Just finished this install. Dynaudio system 360. 8" midwoofers, 3" midranges, and 1" tweeters. Midwoofers fit perfectly in the front doors behind the stock grills and the mids and tweets are in Q-Logic kickpanles.

I updated my "installation" thread here.

Also, detailed install pics are on my homepage.

And here is a pic of the finished product.

Tony

max'n out

All you need now is a good set of kick panels

ABS

Tony:

Your install looks awesome. Thank you for sharing with us the details of how you set this up. I bet those Dynaudio drivers really sound nice, especially running them active.

As a side note, I wanted to mention to you that I found a thread over on www.elitecaraudio.com that talked about using a large cap to protect tweeters from DC surges. I remember you'd had a problem with a tweeter burning out in the past, I think the problem you experienced could have something to do with what was being discussed in the thread. The experts were saying that by putting a capacitor on the line going to the tweeter, which is equal to 1/2 the x-over point being used, that it is possible to protect the tweeter from any DC surges that might be coming through from the electronics . . . Audio signals are AC not DC and a large enough DC surge could easily burn up a tweeter's voice coil . . . I don't have the link to the thread off-hand, but if you are still concerned, you might consider heading over there and doing a search for it . . .

ABS

I'm having trouble editing my last post so I also have a couple of questions for you . . .

Would you happen to know how much mounting depth is available (without hitting the window) when the OEM Bose plastic spacer is used? Also, what is the largest diameter driver that will fit on the OEM Bose plastic spacer? I only ask these questions because I just picked up a pair of Seas G18RX/P fiberglass cone woofers and it would be great to know if I need to create a custom mount for them or not. These woofers are 7" diameter and 3.25" deep (not including cone excursion) . . . I think they'll mesh nicely with my Morel tweeters !

ABS

Also, a couple of questions for you . . .

Would you happen to know how much mounting depth is available (without hitting the window) when the OEM Bose plastic spacer is used? Also, what is the largest diameter driver that will fit on the OEM Bose plastic spacer? I only ask these questions because I just picked up a pair of Seas G18RX/P fiberglass cone woofers and it would be great to know if I need to create a custom mount for them or not. These woofers are 7" diameter and 3.25" deep (not including cone excursion) . . . I think they'll mesh nicely with my Morel tweeters !

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

man, that looks very good. looks like the car came like that

Tony Fernandes

Yes...I am very concerned about my tweeters. I don't want the same thing to happen again. BTW, the Solen capacitor I used was a 20uF +/- 5% 400VDC. I never detected any problems while listening to music, it was only after I tried to flatten out the frequency response with my 30-band EQ. It's when I boosted the upper frequencies (above 10KHz) that the tweeters bit the dust. I'll have to check out that thread. Thanks!

Tony

Tony Fernandes

Below is a picture of the stock Bose baffles. On the right is a Focal HC650. As you can see it barely fits. The outside diameter of the speaker is exactly 6.5 inches. The speaker's mounting depth is 2-5/8 inches and the baffle is 1 inch thick. The Dyn baffle I made was 1-1/4 thick and the midwoofer mounting depth was 3-1/16 inches. I believe there was probably less than 1/4 inch clearance between the midwoofer basket and the window.

I believe there was enough info in my measurments to figure it out mathematically, I apologize if there's not, but I have to rush off to work before I'm late!!

Tony

ABS

Tony:

Here are some threads for your review:

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm#dc-protection
http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showt...9&pagenumber=1

Turns out that it is in fact the DC surge that kills the tweeter . . . If i had to guess, I'd bet that your amp, pre-amp and/or your EQ has a lot of "dc bias" on the output. Most solid state amps need to be bench tested and adjusted for near zero DC bias . . . In a car, the vibration an amp continually experiences could gradually cause the very fine DC Bias adjustment to go out of alignment. A small POT is usually leveraged to make this adjustment . . . I have a pair of Dynaco ST-400 amps in my home system and the DC Bias adjustment is a critical part of the setup . . . As a side note, these amps also happen to have an internal circuit combined with a fast acting relay that will disconnect the speakers from the amp if excessive DC is detected at the amplifier's output . . .

ABS

Tony:

Thanks for the info. This is exactly what I needed. I'm now thinking that a 3/8 spacer mounted on the OEM Bose 1" baffle will probably do the trick for me. If it is not too cold tomorrow, I'm going to take pne of the front doors apart tomorrow and validate that this will work ok . . . I need to confirm that the OEM Bose baffle will fit the chassis of my new woofers. If they do, then I should just be able to put a spacer on top. If not, I might just build my own from the ground up - like what you did. I have a router, so this shouldn't be too bad either way.