geez, the RED LIGHT OF H*LL!
12-07-2004, 06:09 AM
#1
geez, the RED LIGHT OF H*LL!
Ok, I have an Audiobahn A4801T amp with 2 audibahn 12's. Now, after pushing my box back in the trunk (it slid forward), the amp and subs dont work. every 10 second or so, however, it soudns like a sub will hit for a split second and stop stop, and simutaneously the lights in and out of the car (every one), will flicker. i have neevr had a flickering problem before and i have never had the amp problem.
please someone help me.
also, if you can find the user manual for this particular product online, please let me know. thanks guys
im counting on you
please someone help me.
also, if you can find the user manual for this particular product online, please let me know. thanks guys
im counting on you
12-07-2004, 07:28 AM
#2
I think it's draining all the power that the car has to try and produce some bass.
What type of battery do you have? Maybe it's weak? Get that tested out. If the battery isn't strong then it is weak (obviously) and everytime your system hits it's taking all of your stored energy in the battery and using it for the system.
What type of wiring do you have going from the battery back to the amp? If the wiring is weak then it's not good either. 8ga wire as opposed to 4ga wire makes a huge difference. I used to have 2 big eclipse amps running on 0ga wire and never had a dimming issue. So that may be something else to think about.
Good Luck
What type of battery do you have? Maybe it's weak? Get that tested out. If the battery isn't strong then it is weak (obviously) and everytime your system hits it's taking all of your stored energy in the battery and using it for the system.
What type of wiring do you have going from the battery back to the amp? If the wiring is weak then it's not good either. 8ga wire as opposed to 4ga wire makes a huge difference. I used to have 2 big eclipse amps running on 0ga wire and never had a dimming issue. So that may be something else to think about.
Good Luck
12-07-2004, 09:11 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 522
sounds like your fuse could be going bad under the hood, the ground wire is comming out, the remote turn on is loose or the power wire is loose. I would check those first, or better yet get a voltmeter and test the postitive at the amplifier. If it doesnt have 12 volts you have just found your problem!
12-07-2004, 01:19 PM
#4
alright, ill check with the volt meter.
umm, the dimming issue isnt because of the bass though,like, when it worked, there was never a dimming issue when the bass hit because i think the amo has a built in capacitor.
the problem is more with the fact that the red PROT light on the amp is stuck lit and i dont know why.
umm, the dimming issue isnt because of the bass though,like, when it worked, there was never a dimming issue when the bass hit because i think the amo has a built in capacitor.
the problem is more with the fact that the red PROT light on the amp is stuck lit and i dont know why.
12-07-2004, 03:45 PM
#6
Originally Posted by johnnyo319
check your wiring. you may have a short. The Protection light is on so it may indicate you have a short in the wiring.
do you have any idea where it would be, and also, what do i look for when im lookin for a shorted wire?
12-07-2004, 06:06 PM
#7
Did you install the system or did someone else? Get a multimeter and check all the wire connections at your amp. With the car on you should be getting 13+ V when you take red probe and touch it with power wire and black probe with ground. You should also get 13+V at the remote wire w/ respect to ground. Check the resistance of all the speaker wires (ie if you have 4 ohm impedance speakers it should be about 3.5 ohm resistance).
12-07-2004, 08:15 PM
#9
ur bass keeps goin out because when ur box slides back ur wires become loos u need to put terminals on them...as for ur lights flickering...ur batter is too weak and ur pushing more power...eith buy a more powerfull battery,preferable LIQUID BATTERY, or jus get a capacitor which connect from the line form ur battery to ur amp...it stores up energy when ur subs arent pumping this way wen they start pumpin u get extra power
12-08-2004, 05:47 AM
#10
ok guys, again, the light flickering problem is a new one, it did not happen when everything worked fine. the lights only flicker now since the subs and amp arent working.
secondly, the problem lies soemwhere in the power, ground, or remote wire. they are the only wires hooked up right now and the red PROT light is still illuminated on the amp. what do i need to do to get that light to go away?
secondly, the problem lies soemwhere in the power, ground, or remote wire. they are the only wires hooked up right now and the red PROT light is still illuminated on the amp. what do i need to do to get that light to go away?
12-08-2004, 06:26 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 266
I'm guessing that you didn't hook it up yourself.. But check that the Power (+) wire is properly connected to the amp as well as the Ground (-) is properly connected to the amp and ground point. The ground point is connected to the car's chassis somewhere. I'd first check the ground wire. It should be securely fastened to the chassis/frame on an unpainted metal surface.
12-08-2004, 01:18 PM
#12
yes, i did hook it up myself. i don tknow why you thought otherwise. the ground is hook up properly to the chassis, actually to the rear strut/spring support and the power is connected to the batter, but first to the fuse with a brand new fuse (100 amp). the remote wire is also properly hooked.
12-09-2004, 05:23 AM
#13
ok, changed the distributor, not the problem. I have come to the noticeability that with only the remote, the power, and the ground hooked to the amp, the red light it on. I have no idea. you? (o, the ground is to the rear strut support).
12-09-2004, 10:09 AM
#15
Try this...
Disconnect your amp from your system. Test it using your car's battery. Connect the +12v and remote wires of the amp together. Then connect them both directly to the positive side of your battery. Take the ground wire of your amp and ground it to a metal part of the engine compartment. See if the light still flickers. If its steady, then somewhere in your system you have a loose connection.
You might want to read thru this thread to, this guy had a similar situation as you.
Disconnect your amp from your system. Test it using your car's battery. Connect the +12v and remote wires of the amp together. Then connect them both directly to the positive side of your battery. Take the ground wire of your amp and ground it to a metal part of the engine compartment. See if the light still flickers. If its steady, then somewhere in your system you have a loose connection.
You might want to read thru this thread to, this guy had a similar situation as you.
12-09-2004, 08:08 PM
#17
Well......no warranty means, you need to shell out some $$$ for a new one. Or just save up, roll in your ride w/o bass (it isn't that bad at all), and get yourself a GOOD amp with plenty of power later on.
Originally Posted by jackiss2888
Alright, well, going to try the suggested. Guys, I'm scared that the amp is f'd up. What do I do then? No warranty....
12-09-2004, 09:46 PM
#18
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Originally Posted by Batxel
(ie if you have 4 ohm impedance speakers it should be about 3.5 ohm resistance).
--Don
12-10-2004, 04:56 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Kikcaffine
you could try bringing the amplifier to one of those stores that repairs electronics and have them see if its broken.
Yea, never thought about that. Any suggestions? Circuit City?
Again, thanks guys for taking the time to help me out.
O yea, AudioBahn said something about the input level stage, If it needs repair its 159 and replacement and a new warranty is 309, so I think that may be an option as well.
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