Help....how to stop too much battery drainage?
#1
Help....how to stop too much battery drainage?
I have a 600 watt amp powering two 12" subs, aftermarket fog lights, and I'm about to put in a 7" monitor and fm modulator and a power invertor with PS2 in the car. This is all running off the battery. Will I be alright or do I need a pawer cap? What could I get so i don't damage anything (Battery or alternator)?
#2
Yeah I would like some insight on this also. My lights are already dimming, but I think its due to the amp I am running. All I have is two 12" coustics 400w/ with a 250 watt mono amp. I probably should be using a better amp, but is this the reason my lights are dimming when I turn it up?
#3
1-The amplifier will run on a remote wire. That activates the amplifier and only draws current while the radio is on. Modulator as well.
2- The foglights should only draw current when activated with headlights.
3-Invertor if low wattage wont be too much of a draw.
Im linking in a post from my boards (Im the old mod on a diff car board) Voltage
It explains it somehwat.
The lights dimming would be due to the nature of an amplifier. it is transient in power. It draws what is necessary and can draw from 10 amps to the full fuse rating depending on the musical range it is responding too. While the amplifier has a constant demand your vehicle increases output by outputting more amperage at higher rpms (Remember the alt is crank driven). At idle you may experience these problems but what about WOT?
This would just say to me that if possible or availalbe look for a higher amp alternator or possibly segregate the sound system from teh vehicle system IE additional battery and isolator-This will help mask the problem but not fix it.
sorry to run on.
2- The foglights should only draw current when activated with headlights.
3-Invertor if low wattage wont be too much of a draw.
Im linking in a post from my boards (Im the old mod on a diff car board) Voltage
It explains it somehwat.
The lights dimming would be due to the nature of an amplifier. it is transient in power. It draws what is necessary and can draw from 10 amps to the full fuse rating depending on the musical range it is responding too. While the amplifier has a constant demand your vehicle increases output by outputting more amperage at higher rpms (Remember the alt is crank driven). At idle you may experience these problems but what about WOT?
This would just say to me that if possible or availalbe look for a higher amp alternator or possibly segregate the sound system from teh vehicle system IE additional battery and isolator-This will help mask the problem but not fix it.
sorry to run on.
#4
What about a cap? I have been told that works like having a second battery. My foglights have a seperate switch and are connected to the battery. therefore, i won't be hurting anything or risk draining my battery if i add the monitor, fm modulator, and power invertor?
#6
Read the link "A capacitor isn't any help at all--it is designed to deplete it's entire charge in a split second, and then rapidly recharge for the next time. Great for the big bass notes, no help in your charging system."
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