Which subs hit harder, 2 ohm or 4 ohm subs?

 

welll theres other factors....like how much wattage and such....but do you know what ohms are???
Its the amount of resitance...the less the better....

 

www.bcae1.com. Ill take it easy so hopefully you dont get flamed. The resistance, or ohms, is the opposition to current. So with a lower ohm load, more current can flow. However, amps can only handle a certain amount of current flowing, and that all depends on what amp you have. Also, it depends on how many subs you have...because subs of different ohm loads can be wired a bunch of different ways so that the amp doesnt go below its minimum ohm load. www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring. So, in short, if you are wiring up one sub to an amp, and the amp is 2 ohm stable, a 2 ohm sub will allow twice the current to flow to the sub versus a 4 ohm sub. But if you have two 4 ohm subs, the amp will see a 2 ohm load. Basically you want to match your subs to your amp, so as to get the most output from your amp. Read up from those sites, mainly the first one, and youll learn a lot.

Kevin

 

@kpr10is...

www.bcae1.com is one of the BEST sites to learn from if you're looking to get the most out of your stereo system. That's the site I learned just about everything I needed to know when putting my system together. I recommend it to everyone that's new to the stereo game...

I was about to post a similar question. I am looking into re-vamping my system now that I have a new ride, and I'm planning to get new amps and a new sub. I'm planning on going with a single 10" or 12" Kicker L-7 (4-Ohm DVC) and mating it up with a Audiobahn A8000T Mono sub amp that's stable at 800Wx1 @ 2-Ohms RMS. My main question is whether or not I should purchase a 2-Ohm DVC sub or a 4-Ohm DVC sub? If I wire each coil in parallel, it will produce a 2-Ohm load on the amp, right? The 10" L-7 is rated at 600W RMS, and I'm planning to mount it in a sealed enclosure to manufacturer's sealed enclosure specs. The 12" L-7 is rated at 750W RMS. I know better than to pay much attention to the Max wattage, since that's mostly a marketing tool and very few people use the max wattage for these subs anyway. I've heard that the Audiobahn amps are pretty good (anybody wanna vouch for them?), and the price range of that particular one is in my budget for a sub-amp, so that's why it's at the top of my sub amp list right now. I'm also considering the HiFonics BX1000-D mono sub amp too, which is rated at 700Wx1 @2-Ohms RMS. The HiFonics BX1000-D amp, however, is also 1-Ohm stable, putting out 1,000Wx1 @ 1-Ohm RMS.

Another question I have about that is whether or not those particular brand of Kicker subs really NEED an enclosure, since it's a solo-baric, and if I do mount it in a sealed enclosure (to manufacturer's specs) do I have it face the rear deck or towards the cabin?

I need the serious audiophiles to chime in on this one.

Thanks in advance!

 

Get a 2-ohm stable amp, and DVC 4 ohm subs, because, yes when you wire it in parallel you will get a 2 ohm load. You absolutely need a box, and where you face the sub is up to you. Facing it towards the front of the car gives you more sound quality, but not as loud...facing it towards the rear will give you louder bass, not as much sound quality, and more trunk rattle from the outside.

Kevin

 

with a 2 ohm dvc, u can wire into 4 or 1 ohms. get the 4 ohm dvc instead if that amp can't stand a load lower than 2 ohms. the enclosure is up to you. go with a sealed if you want tight punchy bass, or ported for more spl (you lose some SQ as a tradeoff)

 

"Solo"baric is just a marketing term. They are giving you the effect of an Isobaric setup with a single (solo) sub. You get a sub that performs in a small box but at the sake of lost efficiency. Minimum, all subs need at least a baffle (like in dipole subs).

-Robert