Custom fiberglass amplifier/crossover/sub rack in a 2001 Maxima ***PICS***
05-31-2005, 07:10 AM
#41
just as a suggestion as per my experience and per experience with working with this stuff. Get The West System. It is stronger than any resin out there and is used on boats. u can get it at any marine store liek Boat US or West Marine. Its great stuff 
but other than that its lookin good!
but other than that its lookin good!
06-10-2005, 01:14 AM
#47
Originally Posted by D Love
Metal Maxima was banned for two weeks on 5-31, so you probably won't see any updating until some time next week.
06-10-2005, 10:21 AM
#48
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 653
Originally Posted by slickrick
lol isn't that ironic based on what was posted in the thread...anyway come back metal to give us an update.
06-12-2005, 12:52 PM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 297
hmm are the pics still up? i cant see any of them, i made a fiberglass box for my car and all i used was some brand from homedepot, its the only one they sell around here, but if there is a west coast marine of some other boating srotre around you its alot cheaper
06-15-2005, 04:02 AM
#55
Originally Posted by ghostridden
i wanna see but i'll i see is the blasted red x's!!!
Originally Posted by D Love
In that case, it definitely is ironic. 
06-15-2005, 04:26 AM
#56
Ok, been working my azz off on this project, the updates you see are in chronological order, although I couldn't give you the exact dates. I will add text as if it were the stage seen.
So, since I am in a bind and need thixitropic powder, I needed to homebrew. So I added one-and-one-thirds cup flour to 0.5L of resin & xxmL MEKP (I stopped measuring, the color is a better gauge for me). For the record, FLOUR WORKS AS A GREAT THICKENING AGENT!!!!
Here you can see it cured.
So, since I am in a bind and need thixitropic powder, I needed to homebrew. So I added one-and-one-thirds cup flour to 0.5L of resin & xxmL MEKP (I stopped measuring, the color is a better gauge for me). For the record, FLOUR WORKS AS A GREAT THICKENING AGENT!!!!
Here you can see it cured.
06-15-2005, 04:27 AM
#57
...but the funny thing is...I DIDN'T NEED IT IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!! I found this out real quick. PWN3D!!!! Oh, well. Here you can see where I did not use the flour.
BIG MISTAKE #1 - Since I had some leftover resin after I finished the inside, I figured, "Might as well just add on top of the exterior layer!" Wow, wish I NEVER would have done that. It made the surface EXTREMELY hard and near impossible to sand. With that said, let's segue into...
BIG MISTAKE #2 Ugh, gaps everywhere. I decided to mix a 50:50 mix of bodyfiller and resin/MEKP to pour onto the mold. Theoretically, gravity should cause the mix to self level, right? Well, it did, but I did not account ofr body filler cure rate >>>>> resin/MEKP cure rate. As a result, I would up having streams of the mix curing ATOP of the existing mix. What I should have done was had a second person to help me with such a big piece. It was very difficult to move around in order to facilitate proper flow of the mix. Ugh, what a mess!!!!!!
BIG MISTAKE #1 - Since I had some leftover resin after I finished the inside, I figured, "Might as well just add on top of the exterior layer!" Wow, wish I NEVER would have done that. It made the surface EXTREMELY hard and near impossible to sand. With that said, let's segue into...
BIG MISTAKE #2 Ugh, gaps everywhere. I decided to mix a 50:50 mix of bodyfiller and resin/MEKP to pour onto the mold. Theoretically, gravity should cause the mix to self level, right? Well, it did, but I did not account ofr body filler cure rate >>>>> resin/MEKP cure rate. As a result, I would up having streams of the mix curing ATOP of the existing mix. What I should have done was had a second person to help me with such a big piece. It was very difficult to move around in order to facilitate proper flow of the mix. Ugh, what a mess!!!!!!
06-15-2005, 04:28 AM
#59
I spent the past week in +90*F heat (+95*F heat index) sanding down the whole mess with 60-grit paper. I first tried with a regular electric sander. That chopped the paper up too fast. Next, I tried using a drill with a 5" sanding wheel attached. That did not work either - it created too many 'steppes'. (see pic)
THESE ARE STEPPES
So...looks like I am going to have to give the WHOLE thing a handjob. As I was sanding, I would go back, trace the area for any pits and fill with glazing putty (the blue stuff). I used 3M Blue Acryl Glazing Putty. The I would go back, sand again. Repeat this horrifically redundant process for a week. Only one section required additional bodyfiller (the red stuff). Then I cut out the recess cover and sanded the perimeter.
FINALLY!!!! 60-GRIT SANDING PHASE IS DONE!!!!
The curves are not perfect (I blame that on the wrapjob), but they are very fluid! Next up are the 150, 330, and 500-grit sanding jobs, which I should have done by the end of the week.
THESE ARE STEPPES
So...looks like I am going to have to give the WHOLE thing a handjob. As I was sanding, I would go back, trace the area for any pits and fill with glazing putty (the blue stuff). I used 3M Blue Acryl Glazing Putty. The I would go back, sand again. Repeat this horrifically redundant process for a week. Only one section required additional bodyfiller (the red stuff). Then I cut out the recess cover and sanded the perimeter.
FINALLY!!!! 60-GRIT SANDING PHASE IS DONE!!!!
The curves are not perfect (I blame that on the wrapjob), but they are very fluid! Next up are the 150, 330, and 500-grit sanding jobs, which I should have done by the end of the week.
06-15-2005, 04:30 AM
#60
I will be putting this in the trunk to give everyone a perspective shot tonight. The surface is nice and level, though there are a few sections that suffer a bit from the wrap. Nothing too bad.
...but until I get this thing primed it's going to look like a cancer-ridden cow.
...but until I get this thing primed it's going to look like a cancer-ridden cow.
06-15-2005, 04:30 AM
#61
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 259
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
...but the funny thing is...I DIDN'T NEED IT IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!! I found this out real quick. PWN3D!!!! Oh, well. Here you can see where I did not use the flour.
BIG MISTAKE #1 - Since I had some leftover resin after I finished the inside, I figured, "Might as well just add on top of the exterior layer!" Wow, wish I NEVER would have done that. It made the surface EXTREMELY hard and near impossible to sand. With that said, let's segue into...
BIG MISTAKE #2 Ugh, gaps everywhere. I decided to mix a 50:50 mix of bodyfiller and resin/MEKP to pour onto the mold. Theoretically, gravity should cause the mix to self level, right? Well, it did, but I did not account ofr body filler cure rate >>>>> resin/MEKP cure rate. As a result, I would up having streams of the mix curing ATOP of the existing mix. What I should have done was had a second person to help me with such a big piece. It was very difficult to move around in order to facilitate proper flow of the mix. Ugh, what a mess!!!!!!
BIG MISTAKE #1 - Since I had some leftover resin after I finished the inside, I figured, "Might as well just add on top of the exterior layer!" Wow, wish I NEVER would have done that. It made the surface EXTREMELY hard and near impossible to sand. With that said, let's segue into...
BIG MISTAKE #2 Ugh, gaps everywhere. I decided to mix a 50:50 mix of bodyfiller and resin/MEKP to pour onto the mold. Theoretically, gravity should cause the mix to self level, right? Well, it did, but I did not account ofr body filler cure rate >>>>> resin/MEKP cure rate. As a result, I would up having streams of the mix curing ATOP of the existing mix. What I should have done was had a second person to help me with such a big piece. It was very difficult to move around in order to facilitate proper flow of the mix. Ugh, what a mess!!!!!!
06-15-2005, 06:36 AM
#62
looks good and like your through the tougher parts, myself i use the sanding shavings to thicken up. For a final coat i also usually use 50% bondo 50% glass and it lays pretty well.
With the flour did you notice any porousness in the final product
With the flour did you notice any porousness in the final product
06-15-2005, 06:44 AM
#63
Originally Posted by Cant_Get_Ryte
looks good and like your through the tougher parts, myself i use the sanding shavings to thicken up. For a final coat i also usually use 50% bondo 50% glass and it lays pretty well.
With the flour did you notice any porousness in the final product
With the flour did you notice any porousness in the final product
06-15-2005, 07:06 AM
#64
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 653
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
I will be putting this in the trunk to give everyone a perspective shot tonight. The surface is nice and level, though there are a few sections that suffer a bit from the wrap. Nothing too bad.
...but until I get this thing primed it's going to look like a cancer-ridden cow.
...but until I get this thing primed it's going to look like a cancer-ridden cow.
good job though. i'm interested to see the finished product.
06-21-2005, 10:05 AM
#69
Originally Posted by lfc.reds
How high can your Max bounce when the base notes punch through?? Double bonus for deep muscle massages.
The Max won't 'bounce'; I am adding +70lbs. of deadening. The subwoofer is and Adire Koda 10...a sub unanimously known for it's SQ...not it's ability as an SPL subwoofer.
06-22-2005, 06:19 PM
#70
For those whom have been following this thread, it should be DONE this weekend. I am in the process of priming and filling the resultant pits. The blue EL wire was ordered today.
I am thinking that I am going to do the amp box in chrome and the rack in gloss black...it will match the amp well.
I am thinking that I am going to do the amp box in chrome and the rack in gloss black...it will match the amp well.
06-22-2005, 06:29 PM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 289
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
For those whom have been following this thread, it should be DONE this weekend. I am in the process of priming and filling the resultant pits. The blue EL wire was ordered today.
I am thinking that I am going to do the amp box in chrome and the rack in gloss black...it will match the amp well.
I am thinking that I am going to do the amp box in chrome and the rack in gloss black...it will match the amp well.
06-22-2005, 06:35 PM
#72
Originally Posted by memphis_sktr
Can't wait to see the end product and I'm sure you can't wait to be done with the project.
Thanks for everyone's support, it keeps enthused to post all of the pics.
06-22-2005, 08:58 PM
#73
wow, that project has come along way. i got to hand it to ya, thats some great work man, good effort and time spent well. it should look real nice when your done, and i know youll feel happy when all that work has finally paid off. keep up the good work and keep us posted. btw thats a beautiful amp... lol i want that shiet
06-25-2005, 09:41 AM
#75
ALRIGHT, TIME TO PAINT!!!! What you see here was an arduous week of filling, sanding, filling, and sanding. I first sanded it down with a 60-grit paper, followed by a 200-grit, 500-grit, high-build primer, and finally a wet-sand @ 800-grit. The wood was primed with Kilz sealer, that was a pain in the but. Then finally, I painted it with a gloss-black paint.
06-25-2005, 09:42 AM
#76
Here is a shot of the front! I am going to be using a chrome paint for the interior of the box, I have to wait for the paint to cure first. The temp outside is 93F with a heat index of 100F, so it should not take too long!
06-25-2005, 02:53 PM
#80
Originally Posted by AscendantMax
that looks good man. are you going to clear it?
...the downside overall is that the paints I am using DO NOT recommend cleacoating, so I will have to wait and see what I am going to do.
...with any luck I will be DONE tommorow... *knocks on wood*
