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My bass dies out with the volume out

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Old 06-18-2005 | 09:37 AM
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My bass dies out with the volume out

I don't know if it is just a natural thing but when my volume is down the bass is deeper and as I go up it just gets weaker. It will still be deep but just weak. Maybe it is the tuning on the amp which would make sense, but could it be the ****ty headunit I have. It is a basically an old Lanzar that came with the car and I havent' gotten around to getting something else. I have 3 JL 10w3's and a kid with 2 Walmart Pioneers in little boxes from Walmart with a like 600 watt amp seems to hit harder then mine. I have an MB Quart RAA1100. It is supposed to be running around 1 ohm to make almost 1000 watts but I am doubting that too. My last question is would it be the box? I heard JL boxes are huge and this one isn't too big for 3 subs. Thanks in advance for help.

Zach
Old 06-18-2005 | 09:45 AM
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maybe this will help.


that is my box with 3 12" jl w3v2. Are you sure you wired them correctly ? Take a multimeter and check to see how many ohms your getting to the box. Also 1 ohm puts alot of stress on your alternator and battery. What kind of headunit is it ? Do you have 4v pres 8v pres ? I need a little more information.
Old 06-18-2005 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DcMaN
maybe this will help.


that is my box with 3 12" jl w3v2. Are you sure you wired them correctly ? Take a multimeter and check to see how many ohms your getting to the box. Also 1 ohm puts alot of stress on your alternator and battery. What kind of headunit is it ? Do you have 4v pres 8v pres ? I need a little more information.
I'm not sure on the pres question I looked in the manual but nothing. It is a lanzar svtv7. I hate it. The only reason it is in there is because it came with the car. But I will update this when I get out of work today. The box looks like that but yours looks bigger mine will almost fit flush against the back seat in my 4th gen if that helps at all. But I will update this in a little bit.
Old 06-18-2005 | 09:59 AM
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better yet, what gauge wiring are you running to the amp? seem like it's starving of power once you're increasing the volume.
Old 06-18-2005 | 01:40 PM
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maybe your amp is clipping. As you turn the volume up, the speakers would get louder, but if the subs' amp is clipping the subs' volume would seem to stay about the same while the other speakers are getting louder. <-- did that make sense? I know what I'm thinking, just trying to word it right. I would try re-tuning the sub amp. The wiring is a good thought as well.
Old 06-18-2005 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DcMaN
Also 1 ohm puts alot of stress on your alternator and battery.
explain
Old 06-18-2005 | 02:38 PM
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Actually now that someone says something about the wiring I think that is my problem. I was running bigger wire to a 600 watt amp in my Jeep. This one is kinda small and once again was in the car when I bought it so I didn' change it. It may be only like 8 gauge possibly smaller. So I guess I will change that first. What gauge would be good 4?
Old 06-18-2005 | 04:26 PM
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definately get a bigger wire. 8 gauge is too small for that large amp. get at least a 4 gauge (that may even be pushing the limit of a 4 gauge)
Old 06-18-2005 | 04:29 PM
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Where do they sell lower? I have never seen any lower. I would rather do it right the first time then buy 4 Gauge and have it not be enough.

Edit: I found it on sounddomain.com. Any brand better then others. They have RF and its $4.29 per foot SC 4704. Stinger has a couple $2.95 SC 4284 and like 3.50 SC 4284. Phoenix Gold 3.71. Lightning audio is 2.49 and Streetwires is 2.69 SC 4256. The strand count is different on all of them too
Old 06-18-2005 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ERTY67
explain

In a nutshell your car produces a finite amount of electricity. Varying the resistance in the circuit (ie 4 Ohms, 1 Ohm) allows the circuit to draw additional current (amps) since the flow of electricity (voltage) in a vehicle remains relatively stable. This in turn results in an increase in power (watts).

According to Ohms Law upon lowering the resistance you proportionally raise the current draw. If you have a system that draws 75 amps at 4 ohms you may end up drawing well over 100 amps at 1 ohm and that can be too great for many cars. My alternator is rated at 120 amps so if the system is demanding more than that then the bass will suffer.

Regarding wire...Run don't walk to a store and purchase 4 gauge and rewire your set up. Not only are you robbing power (since the amount of current flow is restricted by small wire) but it can be dangerous since the wire is being over stressed.

I am in no means an electrical engineer and this subject is pretty intensive. Check out the12volt.com for more info, or search Ohm's Law.
Old 06-19-2005 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pdxmax97
In a nutshell your car produces a finite amount of electricity. Varying the resistance in the circuit (ie 4 Ohms, 1 Ohm) allows the circuit to draw additional current (amps) since the flow of electricity (voltage) in a vehicle remains relatively stable. This in turn results in an increase in power (watts).

According to Ohms Law upon lowering the resistance you proportionally raise the current draw. If you have a system that draws 75 amps at 4 ohms you may end up drawing well over 100 amps at 1 ohm and that can be too great for many cars. My alternator is rated at 120 amps so if the system is demanding more than that then the bass will suffer.

Regarding wire...Run don't walk to a store and purchase 4 gauge and rewire your set up. Not only are you robbing power (since the amount of current flow is restricted by small wire) but it can be dangerous since the wire is being over stressed.

I am in no means an electrical engineer and this subject is pretty intensive. Check out the12volt.com for more info, or search Ohm's Law.

Don't worry...I understood completely. I have some electronic background, so it made perfect sense. Thanks.
Old 06-19-2005 | 07:01 PM
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Anyone with any input about the different wires?
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