How would stock "non-bose" comps sound
06-29-2005, 08:35 PM
#1
How would stock "non-bose" comps sound
If I temporarily (key word being temporarily) had them hooked up to an Eclipse 8445 I plan on buying.
I'm going on a road trip and need to do something soon. I ain't got diddly going on right now (stock everything with the added pleasure of having one of my rears blown and rattling like a sumbich.) I'm essentailly trying to figure out if they'd get me by for the time being.
Your opions: Would they sound same, better or worse than they sound now?
I wish I could do more, but it looks like I'll have to put my system together systematcially.
Headunit first, take care of my rears with some Rm6's & leave the fronts for later. (Amp, new comps, & sub to be added later)
thanx
I'm going on a road trip and need to do something soon. I ain't got diddly going on right now (stock everything with the added pleasure of having one of my rears blown and rattling like a sumbich.) I'm essentailly trying to figure out if they'd get me by for the time being.
Your opions: Would they sound same, better or worse than they sound now?
I wish I could do more, but it looks like I'll have to put my system together systematcially.
Headunit first, take care of my rears with some Rm6's & leave the fronts for later. (Amp, new comps, & sub to be added later)
thanx
06-29-2005, 09:21 PM
#2
Theyll probably sound a little better, except the blown ones, if you send more power to em they might rattle more. I say put the deck in anyway, so you can get used to using it on a road trip which is the best time to mess with decks, plenty of time for listening.
06-30-2005, 05:11 AM
#3
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Theyll probably sound a little better, except the blown ones, if you send more power to em they might rattle more.
Would it be a good idea to leave them as rear fill, or should I amp them at some point?
Thanx for the reply btw
06-30-2005, 05:58 AM
#4
If you are using the head unit power, you definitely dont need to upgrade the speaker wire.
Its up to you and your ears whether you want to leave them as rear fill when you add the rest of your system. Some people like it some dont. When using rear fill, Im a fan of using a 4 ch amp to power all the speakers, and the gain controls to turn the rears down a little bit, but a lot of people just run rear fill off the head unit. I say why not, your already buying an amp, might as well get a 4ch and be able to tune the rear speakers more precisely and get em exactly how you want em.
Its up to you and your ears whether you want to leave them as rear fill when you add the rest of your system. Some people like it some dont. When using rear fill, Im a fan of using a 4 ch amp to power all the speakers, and the gain controls to turn the rears down a little bit, but a lot of people just run rear fill off the head unit. I say why not, your already buying an amp, might as well get a 4ch and be able to tune the rear speakers more precisely and get em exactly how you want em.
06-30-2005, 06:23 AM
#5
Originally Posted by kpr10is
If you are using the head unit power, you definitely dont need to upgrade the speaker wire.
Its up to you and your ears whether you want to leave them as rear fill when you add the rest of your system. Some people like it some dont. When using rear fill, Im a fan of using a 4 ch amp to power all the speakers, and the gain controls to turn the rears down a little bit, but a lot of people just run rear fill off the head unit. I say why not, your already buying an amp, might as well get a 4ch and be able to tune the rear speakers more precisely and get em exactly how you want em.
Its up to you and your ears whether you want to leave them as rear fill when you add the rest of your system. Some people like it some dont. When using rear fill, Im a fan of using a 4 ch amp to power all the speakers, and the gain controls to turn the rears down a little bit, but a lot of people just run rear fill off the head unit. I say why not, your already buying an amp, might as well get a 4ch and be able to tune the rear speakers more precisely and get em exactly how you want em.
Another option u can look into is gettin comps for the rear, which doesn't require a lot of work. Even though it will cost u more, u will have a fuller sound throughout the entire car, especially when its all amped.
06-30-2005, 09:24 PM
#6
Very good and helpful points. Thanks gentlemen.
My ears are telling me that they want an all encompasing sound stage in my car. It sounds like amping the rears at some point will let me try and hopefully do that. I used to have all my speakers amped in my old car [4 Rm6's & a 10" sub running on an Xtant 3 channel amp], and my ears loved it.
It's a done deal, the rears are getting amped. (at some point anyways)
My ears are telling me that they want an all encompasing sound stage in my car. It sounds like amping the rears at some point will let me try and hopefully do that. I used to have all my speakers amped in my old car [4 Rm6's & a 10" sub running on an Xtant 3 channel amp], and my ears loved it.
It's a done deal, the rears are getting amped. (at some point anyways)
06-30-2005, 10:24 PM
#7
Hmmm......
Should I just go ahead and put my old stuff back in my car (still got it, just begging to be used again), or bite the bullet and cowboy up for some new comps and 4 or 5 channel amp so I can really see what I'm missing out on?
For me it's a tough call cause I've never had a component front setup before. My Max has put me in a postion where I have to think whether I want to go for an easy bada bing one shot kinda deal with limited cost using my old stuff (and knowing that it sounded good) , or do it right, but doing it systematically with added cost. I wish I could bada bing it with some new stuff, but I don't have the pocket for it right now.
What would ya'll do if you were me and had my old stuff? (4 rm6's, 10' sub & 3 ch amp)
A. Just put the old stuff back in and stop trippin over it. It's better than what I got going on right now.
B. Do it right, but do what I can when I can. Get the headunit, and put in the rears to take care of the blown ones. Then get some comps. Then get a 4 channel amp, add the sub and get to powerin up the whole thing like it should be.
Should I just go ahead and put my old stuff back in my car (still got it, just begging to be used again), or bite the bullet and cowboy up for some new comps and 4 or 5 channel amp so I can really see what I'm missing out on?
For me it's a tough call cause I've never had a component front setup before. My Max has put me in a postion where I have to think whether I want to go for an easy bada bing one shot kinda deal with limited cost using my old stuff (and knowing that it sounded good) , or do it right, but doing it systematically with added cost. I wish I could bada bing it with some new stuff, but I don't have the pocket for it right now.
What would ya'll do if you were me and had my old stuff? (4 rm6's, 10' sub & 3 ch amp)
A. Just put the old stuff back in and stop trippin over it. It's better than what I got going on right now.
B. Do it right, but do what I can when I can. Get the headunit, and put in the rears to take care of the blown ones. Then get some comps. Then get a 4 channel amp, add the sub and get to powerin up the whole thing like it should be.
06-30-2005, 10:58 PM
#8
Put the RM6's in the rear and get some components up front for sure. Head unit power isnt enough for components, but I know damn well if I was going on a road trip, Id be powering em off the radio if I didnt have money. Just to have something > stock.
What kind of 10 and amp do you already have laying around? Curious because 3 channel amps are rare. What were you using this 3 ch amp to power in your old car?
If nothing else, your off to a good start with the deck, RM6 rears, and a 10" sub. The rest shouldnt be too bad. If your really strapped for cash you can go the ebay route for some components (without warranty most of the time though).
Without knowing what amp and 10" sub you have, its hard to tell. But in my short 3 years in car audio Ive learned this. Do it once and do it right. You wont regret it. The only thing youll regret is if you throw your old stuff in there, because youll still always have it in the back of your head, and youll end up upgrading later anyway, which will only be more of a pain.
What kind of 10 and amp do you already have laying around? Curious because 3 channel amps are rare. What were you using this 3 ch amp to power in your old car?
If nothing else, your off to a good start with the deck, RM6 rears, and a 10" sub. The rest shouldnt be too bad. If your really strapped for cash you can go the ebay route for some components (without warranty most of the time though).
Without knowing what amp and 10" sub you have, its hard to tell. But in my short 3 years in car audio Ive learned this. Do it once and do it right. You wont regret it. The only thing youll regret is if you throw your old stuff in there, because youll still always have it in the back of your head, and youll end up upgrading later anyway, which will only be more of a pain.
07-01-2005, 09:27 AM
#9
Originally Posted by kpr10is
What kind of 10 and amp do you already have laying around? Curious because 3 channel amps are rare. What were you using this 3 ch amp to power in your old car?
It made sense having a 3 ch. amp back then, having only to power up the coaxes & sub, but most systems these days include component, and even center channel setups (Hence, the dilema I find myself in now, at least in terms of what I should or shouldn't do with my stuff)
I reckon 3 channel amps are so rare because they just aren't going to do the trick unless more amps are added. I'm affraid my 3 channel amp might be obsolete.
What do you think? Think I can possibly use the 3 ch. amp again, or just move on to a good quality 4 or 5 channel amp. What kind of options do I have with this amp?
07-01-2005, 01:30 PM
#10
It all depends on your budget. That amp claims 2x50 + 1x200 at 2 ohms. So if your on a very tight budget, buy a pair of components. Use their supplied passive crossovers, and run the fronts off one of the '2x50' channels, and the rm6 rears off the other. This way all your speakers will be amped. And then use the '1x200' channel for the sub.
On a bigger budget....theres millions of options.
On a bigger budget....theres millions of options.
07-01-2005, 02:03 PM
#11
Originally Posted by kpr10is
It all depends on your budget. That amp claims 2x50 + 1x200 at 2 ohms. So if your on a very tight budget, buy a pair of components. Use their supplied passive crossovers, and run the fronts off one of the '2x50' channels, and the rm6 rears off the other. This way all your speakers will be amped. And then use the '1x200' channel for the sub.
On a bigger budget....theres millions of options.
On a bigger budget....theres millions of options.
Q: 2 ohms vs 4 ohms: what would the difference in sound quality be?
not knowing anything about it, does the difference boil down to 2 ohms gives you more power to your speakers, but lessened quality, & 4 ohms lesser ampage, but better quality?
What would be the best option to go with: 2 ohms or 4 ohms, regardless of budget.
07-01-2005, 06:28 PM
#12
Well technically yes you are increasing the distortion dropping the ohm load but not noticeably at all (read: not noticeably at all. not something to worry about when buying an amp). Its just the resistance of the speaker itself, which needs to match up to what the amp can handle.
For the purpose of explanation, #s 12 and 24 are used in the following. A speaker will never have a resistance of 24 ohms:
One ohm of resistance allows one amp of current to flow when one volt is applied to the circuit. So lets say you have a 12 volt power supply designed to deliver 1 amp of current. If you connect a load of 24 ohms, it will allow half of the power supply's max current to flow. If you connect two 24 ohm loads, the amp will see a 12 ohm load, which means the power supply will be delivering the max safe current output without damaging the power supply. Connecting more will drop the ohm load lower than what it can handle, and the power supply will blow a fuse or fail. The same goes for an amp, it needs to see a certain minimum resistance to ensure a limited maximum current flow.
So knowing that...the best option to get the most power out of your amp, is to match up your speakers with the amp, so that your amp will see as low of an ohm load as possible, within its capabilities.
Now: Most 4 channel amps will run at 4 ohms per channel when installed, since most speakers, whether component or coaxial, are 4 ohms, and youll have one speaker per channel. With your current amp, wired like I said above, the smaller two channels would be running all 4 speakers, so each channel would see a 2 ohm load, which the manual says that amp can handle without a problem. Im not sure the impedance (number of ohms) of your sub, but that would be on the larger channel, most likely at either 2 or 4 ohms.
-kevin
p.s. Credit some of the 2nd paragraph to bcae1.com. Im not as good at explaining things as that. Plagiarizm > all
For the purpose of explanation, #s 12 and 24 are used in the following. A speaker will never have a resistance of 24 ohms:
One ohm of resistance allows one amp of current to flow when one volt is applied to the circuit. So lets say you have a 12 volt power supply designed to deliver 1 amp of current. If you connect a load of 24 ohms, it will allow half of the power supply's max current to flow. If you connect two 24 ohm loads, the amp will see a 12 ohm load, which means the power supply will be delivering the max safe current output without damaging the power supply. Connecting more will drop the ohm load lower than what it can handle, and the power supply will blow a fuse or fail. The same goes for an amp, it needs to see a certain minimum resistance to ensure a limited maximum current flow.
So knowing that...the best option to get the most power out of your amp, is to match up your speakers with the amp, so that your amp will see as low of an ohm load as possible, within its capabilities.
Now: Most 4 channel amps will run at 4 ohms per channel when installed, since most speakers, whether component or coaxial, are 4 ohms, and youll have one speaker per channel. With your current amp, wired like I said above, the smaller two channels would be running all 4 speakers, so each channel would see a 2 ohm load, which the manual says that amp can handle without a problem. Im not sure the impedance (number of ohms) of your sub, but that would be on the larger channel, most likely at either 2 or 4 ohms.
-kevin
p.s. Credit some of the 2nd paragraph to bcae1.com. Im not as good at explaining things as that. Plagiarizm > all
07-02-2005, 12:30 AM
#13
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Without knowing what amp and 10" sub you have, its hard to tell. But in my short 3 years in car audio Ive learned this. Do it once and do it right. You wont regret it. The only thing youll regret is if you throw your old stuff in there, because youll still always have it in the back of your head, and youll end up upgrading later anyway, which will only be more of a pain.
I'm curious to know why they decided to go 4 ohms instead of 2. I wonder if the Rm6's can carry a 2 ohm load.
If they can't, then well, it seems I'll either have to buy new rears if I wanna keep my old amp or shelve it & save up for a 4 channel amp later. Sounds like the latter might be a better idea.
And thank you for checking out the specs on my amp. You went above and beyond to help clarify the ability of my amp for me and I appreciate it very much.
Thanks again and if I may say, for only being in the game only 3 years, your knowledge and professionalism had you pegged for being in it a lot longer.
07-02-2005, 08:51 AM
#14
No problem. I enjoy going above and beyond in explanations when the reader will actually listen and learn, and asks good questions.
Im confused as to your post saying youll have to buy new rears if you want to keep your old amp. You can power all 4 speakers and the sub off your current amp, the amp will see a 2 ohm load on the smaller 2 channels, and the larger channel will go to the sub. See the last paragraph of my big post above for more info, or am I just reading your post wrong
Im confused as to your post saying youll have to buy new rears if you want to keep your old amp. You can power all 4 speakers and the sub off your current amp, the amp will see a 2 ohm load on the smaller 2 channels, and the larger channel will go to the sub. See the last paragraph of my big post above for more info, or am I just reading your post wrong
07-02-2005, 11:03 AM
#15
Originally Posted by kpr10is
Im confused as to your post saying youll have to buy new rears if you want to keep your old amp. You can power all 4 speakers and the sub off your current amp, the amp will see a 2 ohm load on the smaller 2 channels, and the larger channel will go to the sub. See the last paragraph of my big post above for more info, or am I just reading your post wrong
It sounds like I may be confusing the realtionship in terms how they match up. Probably the fact that the relationship lies in whether the amp can handle the resistance of the speaker, not vice versa. Would that be a true deduction, or does everything have to match up? 2 ohms to 2 ohm handling, 4 to 4 etc.
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