The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
07-01-2005, 10:20 AM
#1
The Definitive Sound-Deadening Thread!!!
Alright, boys and girls...as promised here is my $0.02 on the sound deadening/dampening issue. I am disgusted with the volumious responses given in which Dynamat is touted as being the greatest vibrational-stopper ever. WRONG! It's not bad, but there are many better, cheaper alternatives that will give you not as good an effect, but BETTER. I do not claim to be an expert in this category (or any for that matter), but I have done an extensive amount of research on all of these brands and have gained a great deal of information in my studies.
************************************
WHY - We deaden our cars to defeat unwanted vibrations in the trunk, door, rear deck, etc. so that our cars don't sound like $20,000 peices of tin in a windstorm. Some of us do it to kill ambient noise from the road, wind, etc. Lexus inteiors are equipped with piezo-electric devices which actually serve to cancel out the ambient frequencies between 500 - 2000hZ. While we don't have that advantage, there is ALOT we can do to stop it. A well-deadened system will have a much richer bass and midbass sound & feel since the waves will be in our interior, not stuck in the nether known as our interior panels. Another great thing about deadening our cars is that we can reduce the heat inside the cabin since the deadener acts as a resistor against the energy in ambient air.
************************************
DEFINITIONS
There are two types of sound deadening, which are as follows:
MASS LOADING - Involves adding weight to a particular panel of the vehicle to inhibit vibration/rattle. Somewhat effective in defeating ambient soundwaves, great for bass improvement. Pads and liquid deadeners work best for this application.
BARRIER LOADING - Involves adding an acoustical absorber as to absorb sound waves from ambient noise (road, engine, wind, etc.). Great for ambient noise, somewhat effective in improving midbass. Foams work best for this application.
************************************
TYPES
PADS - Butyl Rubber & Asphalt pads such as Dynamat, Damplifier, Roadkill, etc. Need to be applied to metal. Look for a thick pad (>45mils) with a nice heatfoil sheild (>4mils).
FOAMS - Ensolite, rattle pad, overkill, acoustical foam, etc. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works best over an asphalt pad. Look for a closed cell foam.
LIQUID - eDead V3.0, Spectrum, Sludge. Works for both mass and barrier loading. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works well alone or over asphalt pads. Look for a semi-viscous putty/paste. Much easier painted than sprayed.
*************************************
BRANDS
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
*************************************
SURFACE PREPARATION
As with paints, you too must take measures to ensure proper adhesion of your deadener. A highly regarded practice is to first wipe the area down thoroughly with a degreaser to remove any oils that might lie on the surface. This is to be followed with a second wipe down of acentone to make sure the surface is bone dry. Make sure NOT to cut corners on this step!!!
*************************************
APPLICATION
ASPHALT MAT & FOAMS
(1) Using a heatgun, warm the surface of the adhesive side until it begins to tack.
(2) Firmly press your mat into the desired spot.
(3) Thoroughly roll over the mat with a heavy-duty roller. I'd recommend a rubber roller since it will contour a bit better to unlevel planes.
(4) For foams without the benifit of OEM adhesive, I recommed 3M Super 77 Spray Glue.
LIQUIDS
(1) DO NOT SPRAY!!!
(2) Use a quality 2" horse-hair brush and simply paint on.
*************************************
HOW-TO
Proper Door & Trunk Sound-Deadening & You
Elimination of Wind Noise from Windows (by Housecor)
Eliminate Rear Deck Rattle (by Housecor)
Upgrade the BIG THREE (worth adding)
INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT III - +500sqft Second Skin Deadening Worklog Installation!
*************************************
...now all I ask is that you give your reviews of products...and REVIEWS ONLY in this thread. If there are any brands I left out, please PM me and I will edit the master list. If you have a question for someone about their review, PM them. Let's keep this thread a good resource for people to come to...not another my d*ck's bigger than your's thread.
************************************
WHY - We deaden our cars to defeat unwanted vibrations in the trunk, door, rear deck, etc. so that our cars don't sound like $20,000 peices of tin in a windstorm. Some of us do it to kill ambient noise from the road, wind, etc. Lexus inteiors are equipped with piezo-electric devices which actually serve to cancel out the ambient frequencies between 500 - 2000hZ. While we don't have that advantage, there is ALOT we can do to stop it. A well-deadened system will have a much richer bass and midbass sound & feel since the waves will be in our interior, not stuck in the nether known as our interior panels. Another great thing about deadening our cars is that we can reduce the heat inside the cabin since the deadener acts as a resistor against the energy in ambient air.
************************************
DEFINITIONS
There are two types of sound deadening, which are as follows:
MASS LOADING - Involves adding weight to a particular panel of the vehicle to inhibit vibration/rattle. Somewhat effective in defeating ambient soundwaves, great for bass improvement. Pads and liquid deadeners work best for this application.
BARRIER LOADING - Involves adding an acoustical absorber as to absorb sound waves from ambient noise (road, engine, wind, etc.). Great for ambient noise, somewhat effective in improving midbass. Foams work best for this application.
************************************
TYPES
PADS - Butyl Rubber & Asphalt pads such as Dynamat, Damplifier, Roadkill, etc. Need to be applied to metal. Look for a thick pad (>45mils) with a nice heatfoil sheild (>4mils).
FOAMS - Ensolite, rattle pad, overkill, acoustical foam, etc. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works best over an asphalt pad. Look for a closed cell foam.
LIQUID - eDead V3.0, Spectrum, Sludge. Works for both mass and barrier loading. Can be applied on top of plastics and metal. Works well alone or over asphalt pads. Look for a semi-viscous putty/paste. Much easier painted than sprayed.
*************************************
BRANDS
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
*************************************
SURFACE PREPARATION
As with paints, you too must take measures to ensure proper adhesion of your deadener. A highly regarded practice is to first wipe the area down thoroughly with a degreaser to remove any oils that might lie on the surface. This is to be followed with a second wipe down of acentone to make sure the surface is bone dry. Make sure NOT to cut corners on this step!!!
*************************************
APPLICATION
ASPHALT MAT & FOAMS
(1) Using a heatgun, warm the surface of the adhesive side until it begins to tack.
(2) Firmly press your mat into the desired spot.
(3) Thoroughly roll over the mat with a heavy-duty roller. I'd recommend a rubber roller since it will contour a bit better to unlevel planes.
(4) For foams without the benifit of OEM adhesive, I recommed 3M Super 77 Spray Glue.
LIQUIDS
(1) DO NOT SPRAY!!!
(2) Use a quality 2" horse-hair brush and simply paint on.
*************************************
HOW-TO
Proper Door & Trunk Sound-Deadening & You
Elimination of Wind Noise from Windows (by Housecor)
Eliminate Rear Deck Rattle (by Housecor)
Upgrade the BIG THREE (worth adding)
INTERIOR OVERHAUL PROJECT III - +500sqft Second Skin Deadening Worklog Installation!
*************************************
...now all I ask is that you give your reviews of products...and REVIEWS ONLY in this thread. If there are any brands I left out, please PM me and I will edit the master list. If you have a question for someone about their review, PM them. Let's keep this thread a good resource for people to come to...not another my d*ck's bigger than your's thread.
07-01-2005, 12:43 PM
#2
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 58
Here is my review of the B-Quiet product.
They actually have performance numbers for their product as well as the Dynamat extreme on their site www.b-quiet.com
Customer Service
It was great. I had a few questions about their product and installation. Wade from B-Quiet had answered all my questions within 24hrs, by email. Purchasing the product was quick and easy. Delivery was very fast.
Product
I used 150 sq.ft. of the Ultimate & 40.5 sq.ft of the V-Comp. Total was $612 US including tax and shipping.
Install
The damping material has a very good adhesive. I installed it on a rainy 60F weekend. I did not need a heat-gun or hair dryer. I put two layers of the Ultimate on the floor, doors, back seat and rear deck. One layer in the trunk. I put down one layer of the V-Comp on the floor, back seat and trunk wheel humps. It took me all of Saturday & most of Sunday from start to finish.
Results.
Road noise had decreased. The decrease of noise through the doors was significant. But the biggest change was to the sound of my stock stereo. Wow. I had disconnected the battery for the install, all the audio presets had gone to the defaults and still my stereo sounded great (comparatively). It increased the bass, better mids and really good highs.
Conclusion
I would do it all again just for the gains to the stereo sound. B-Quiet product did what it said and I definitely would use them again.
They actually have performance numbers for their product as well as the Dynamat extreme on their site www.b-quiet.com
Customer Service
It was great. I had a few questions about their product and installation. Wade from B-Quiet had answered all my questions within 24hrs, by email. Purchasing the product was quick and easy. Delivery was very fast.
Product
I used 150 sq.ft. of the Ultimate & 40.5 sq.ft of the V-Comp. Total was $612 US including tax and shipping.
Install
The damping material has a very good adhesive. I installed it on a rainy 60F weekend. I did not need a heat-gun or hair dryer. I put two layers of the Ultimate on the floor, doors, back seat and rear deck. One layer in the trunk. I put down one layer of the V-Comp on the floor, back seat and trunk wheel humps. It took me all of Saturday & most of Sunday from start to finish.
Results.
Road noise had decreased. The decrease of noise through the doors was significant. But the biggest change was to the sound of my stock stereo. Wow. I had disconnected the battery for the install, all the audio presets had gone to the defaults and still my stereo sounded great (comparatively). It increased the bass, better mids and really good highs.
Conclusion
I would do it all again just for the gains to the stereo sound. B-Quiet product did what it said and I definitely would use them again.
07-01-2005, 01:47 PM
#3
eDead paint on stuff
Ill post on behalf of slickrick since hes in NY for the next two months. He has the paint-on eDead on the botton side of his rear deck, and on the doors. Works okay, but in the trunk, his ascendant audio 15" sub moves it to the point where it leaves him with pieces of the paint-on stuff that fall from the rear deck onto the floor of the trunk. Combined with the fact that for doors, you can only put it on areas of metal and not cover the whole door to make it an enclosure. For these reasons, I advice people to stay away from paint-on deadener, or the eDead paint-on stuff in particular.
-Kevin
Ill post on behalf of slickrick since hes in NY for the next two months. He has the paint-on eDead on the botton side of his rear deck, and on the doors. Works okay, but in the trunk, his ascendant audio 15" sub moves it to the point where it leaves him with pieces of the paint-on stuff that fall from the rear deck onto the floor of the trunk. Combined with the fact that for doors, you can only put it on areas of metal and not cover the whole door to make it an enclosure. For these reasons, I advice people to stay away from paint-on deadener, or the eDead paint-on stuff in particular.
-Kevin
07-01-2005, 02:26 PM
#4
id say that maybe the paint on deadener is better for applications such as under the carpet, floors, etc... rather than underneath a rear deck.
also, prep work is very impt for dampening, maybe thats why its flaking off?
also, prep work is very impt for dampening, maybe thats why its flaking off?
07-01-2005, 08:25 PM
#5
I fourth that motion to sticky.Sound deadening material helps eliminate fatigue especially on long road trips, so it is not just for car audio. I have B Quiet installed in my car and it is worth every penny, it does what it is supposed to do, good price, and holds up well to heat. Bass is definitely more defined, tighter bass, less rattles, road noise cut down by at least 40%.
07-07-2005, 08:25 AM
#7
Back from Hibernation
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,100
Great thread to have here. Sooooo important to dampen doors and trunk especially....
Anyway, heres my review of the Edead liquid (the light blue stuff), two products avalaible at www.raamaudio.com, Raamat60BXT (his latest version of "raamat") and ensolite foam, which Rick McAllum, owner of Raamaudio and Iasca competitor also sells a spray on glue for. Oh, and if I may, I'll put in another DIY product that I've discovered and works well.... ( http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...4+3573&pos=n05) this Frost King Duct insulation that can be found at Home Depot and most likely any similar store....
As for the E-dead liquid, it definately worked. I found it a pain to put into doors as so much had to be taped up to ensure it didn't get everywhere...It may be better for trunks or used only in harder to reach areas. make sure you mix well beforehand and apply many thin coats instead of less thick ones. As I said, it definately dampened. After two layers, applying more seemed to help marginally if that. One year later, there was no cracking/melting or falling off of material. After using it and mat, I, personally at least, am a mat person.
Raamat60BXT: (warning: most have bias towards equiptment/stuff they use/like, so be warned that here it is...I love this stuff, the owner (Rick McAllum, you'll see him on audio forums as Raamaudio), service.....)
I've used two earlier versions of Raamat and have loved it, so getting any new version of this stuff doesn't feel like a risk to me. This stuff is much thicker than the first Raamat version. Raamat60BXT, like earlier versions is peel and stick. The adhesive is very sticky. I have never needed to consider using a heat gun when putting this stuff anywhere in my car. No earlier version of raamat has fallen off my walls doors, trunk lid etc, so I guess I don't expect any different from this version. It was indeed, VERY STICKY. Raamat 60BXT is thicker and heavier than previous versions, obviously meaning less area dampens more...It has the aluminium toplayer, making it easy to layer...as a whole it's just very effective and easy to work with...conforms and adheres well to corners and builds up quick. At a certain point, in my opinion, as long as dampening material is and easy enough to use and effective, it becomes somewhat of a cost/weight comparison. I don't have any weight to post, but this stuff is thick, heavy, and you get a 66 or so foot roll for $129 retail, but he regularly has auctions on ebay and forum group buys to make it much cheaper. (some forums are always on special
) I got two rolls at $89 each plus shipping from California. For the weight, ease of use and how much you get, it would certainly be tough to beat IMO. by the way...my doors are DEAD!
Next, sticking with raamaudio is ensolite, a very light, thin foam that is to be used over top of dampening material as a sound barrier. I bought 3 yeards of it from Rick at, if I remember correctly something like 10 or 20 bucks per linear yard (a good bit of material!!!!!) I also bought some glue spray Rick recommended to use with it (obviously) and it was indeed, better than the similar 3m products I've used, but I'm no glue expert. Anyway, inside my doors, this definately seemed to "absorb the blows" that a well driven beefy midbass driver in sealed doors delivers and I'm not sure, but possibly (or in my mind?) reduced the amount of backwave of the speaker I was hearing through doors....I felt that it, along with a deflex pad behind the driver, improved midrange and upper midbass performance.
Finally, the Frost King Duct insulation that I found at home depot. I'd be interested for others to check this out. It sells for approximately 15 bucks for 12 sq feet, is peel and stick (not close to as sticky as raamat, but stuck on top of raamat very easily and did last 1 year in car without coming off), soft, amybe a little under a 1/4 inch thick. I think this and/or ensolite is a great final layer on top of raamat. I an unable to do an AB comparison of the two, but I do believe that this stuff definately has some dampening qualities (which ensolite does not) as well as some absorbant qualities of a foam. I would definately recommend it to the do it yourselfer who has dampened doors, is looking to improve and provide some absorbing and not order and wait for ensolite/some other foam to come in. Obviously, you don't need glue spray for this, which you do for ensolite.
Anyway, heres my review of the Edead liquid (the light blue stuff), two products avalaible at www.raamaudio.com, Raamat60BXT (his latest version of "raamat") and ensolite foam, which Rick McAllum, owner of Raamaudio and Iasca competitor also sells a spray on glue for. Oh, and if I may, I'll put in another DIY product that I've discovered and works well.... ( http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...4+3573&pos=n05) this Frost King Duct insulation that can be found at Home Depot and most likely any similar store....
As for the E-dead liquid, it definately worked. I found it a pain to put into doors as so much had to be taped up to ensure it didn't get everywhere...It may be better for trunks or used only in harder to reach areas. make sure you mix well beforehand and apply many thin coats instead of less thick ones. As I said, it definately dampened. After two layers, applying more seemed to help marginally if that. One year later, there was no cracking/melting or falling off of material. After using it and mat, I, personally at least, am a mat person.
Raamat60BXT: (warning: most have bias towards equiptment/stuff they use/like, so be warned that here it is...I love this stuff, the owner (Rick McAllum, you'll see him on audio forums as Raamaudio), service.....)
I've used two earlier versions of Raamat and have loved it, so getting any new version of this stuff doesn't feel like a risk to me. This stuff is much thicker than the first Raamat version. Raamat60BXT, like earlier versions is peel and stick. The adhesive is very sticky. I have never needed to consider using a heat gun when putting this stuff anywhere in my car. No earlier version of raamat has fallen off my walls doors, trunk lid etc, so I guess I don't expect any different from this version. It was indeed, VERY STICKY. Raamat 60BXT is thicker and heavier than previous versions, obviously meaning less area dampens more...It has the aluminium toplayer, making it easy to layer...as a whole it's just very effective and easy to work with...conforms and adheres well to corners and builds up quick. At a certain point, in my opinion, as long as dampening material is and easy enough to use and effective, it becomes somewhat of a cost/weight comparison. I don't have any weight to post, but this stuff is thick, heavy, and you get a 66 or so foot roll for $129 retail, but he regularly has auctions on ebay and forum group buys to make it much cheaper. (some forums are always on special
) I got two rolls at $89 each plus shipping from California. For the weight, ease of use and how much you get, it would certainly be tough to beat IMO. by the way...my doors are DEAD!Next, sticking with raamaudio is ensolite, a very light, thin foam that is to be used over top of dampening material as a sound barrier. I bought 3 yeards of it from Rick at, if I remember correctly something like 10 or 20 bucks per linear yard (a good bit of material!!!!!) I also bought some glue spray Rick recommended to use with it (obviously) and it was indeed, better than the similar 3m products I've used, but I'm no glue expert. Anyway, inside my doors, this definately seemed to "absorb the blows" that a well driven beefy midbass driver in sealed doors delivers and I'm not sure, but possibly (or in my mind?) reduced the amount of backwave of the speaker I was hearing through doors....I felt that it, along with a deflex pad behind the driver, improved midrange and upper midbass performance.
Finally, the Frost King Duct insulation that I found at home depot. I'd be interested for others to check this out. It sells for approximately 15 bucks for 12 sq feet, is peel and stick (not close to as sticky as raamat, but stuck on top of raamat very easily and did last 1 year in car without coming off), soft, amybe a little under a 1/4 inch thick. I think this and/or ensolite is a great final layer on top of raamat. I an unable to do an AB comparison of the two, but I do believe that this stuff definately has some dampening qualities (which ensolite does not) as well as some absorbant qualities of a foam. I would definately recommend it to the do it yourselfer who has dampened doors, is looking to improve and provide some absorbing and not order and wait for ensolite/some other foam to come in. Obviously, you don't need glue spray for this, which you do for ensolite.
08-10-2005, 05:41 PM
#8
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: the OC & Silicon Valley
Posts: 2,586
where's fatmat...that's what i use, works well
I have only 50 ft^2 of fatmat in use, the other 50 ft^2 is still sitting in my room (has been for almost a year now
) I've never really used dynamat, I mean I've seen it/felt it, but I've never used a whole 50 ft^2 so I couldn't tell you guys any comparisons, but I don't see how dynamat could really be better. The fatmat did it's job, I used a portable hair dryer so it took forever to heat up all my pieces, so I'd suggest a heat gun or a regular sized blow dryer. All in all, it did it's job (of course our 5th gens aren't able to become 100% rattle free lol) and I'm still debating on whether or not to use the extra 50 ft^2 for my doors or to add more layers to the trunk (will probably go with doors though). I've seen more than one "bad review" of fatmat, which I think is total BS, edead is NO BETTER. Plus fatmat provides cheap lil tools to help you out with the install!
I have only 50 ft^2 of fatmat in use, the other 50 ft^2 is still sitting in my room (has been for almost a year now
) I've never really used dynamat, I mean I've seen it/felt it, but I've never used a whole 50 ft^2 so I couldn't tell you guys any comparisons, but I don't see how dynamat could really be better. The fatmat did it's job, I used a portable hair dryer so it took forever to heat up all my pieces, so I'd suggest a heat gun or a regular sized blow dryer. All in all, it did it's job (of course our 5th gens aren't able to become 100% rattle free lol) and I'm still debating on whether or not to use the extra 50 ft^2 for my doors or to add more layers to the trunk (will probably go with doors though). I've seen more than one "bad review" of fatmat, which I think is total BS, edead is NO BETTER. Plus fatmat provides cheap lil tools to help you out with the install!
08-30-2005, 04:56 PM
#9
Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 41
09-07-2005, 12:11 PM
#10
Originally Posted by second skin rep
09-27-2005, 05:52 PM
#11
Well, my 2 cents. I'm not a huge soundsystem guy, but was sitting around the house and felt like doing a project. Ran out to the local circuit city and bought the (generic) Tsunami mat that was on clearance...It was about 60 bucks for I think it was 40 square feet. In any case, it was enough to do the rear deck, back of back seats, body below back seat, and both front doors completely. It was easy to work with (stick on with foil backing). Results: I have nothing to compare it with, but before installation, most road noise was from the front wheels. After doing the front doors (but not the backs) the road noise has CLEARLY shifted to the rear wheels. That leads me to believe that while it may not be the BEST stuff out there, it certainly did what it was supposed to, at least to a point. I will probably use second skin to do under all the carpeting as the Tsunami's not on clearance any more...
09-29-2005, 05:33 AM
#12
i will be doing the maxima completely pretty soon. but here is my experience with Dynamat in my old Camry. I did the whole trunk, and lid aftrer putting in 2 12" 800 watt subs. Before the Dynamat application everything rattled like no other. I applied a layer of Plain Brown Dynamat on the floor, and followed up with Extreme everywhere but the spare tire well. All the sides and trunk lid got a layer of Dynamat extreme. Some places received 2 layers, especially the back, to reflect subwoofer sound back into the car. All the rattles stopped, and my trunk does not vibrate any more. Dynamat was applied on a summer day, but not using a heat gun. It stuck easily, and still on 4 years later. It is a good product, althogh there seem to be comparable products of very similar quality for less.
I will post reviews of Maxima sound-deadening later.
I will post reviews of Maxima sound-deadening later.
10-04-2005, 07:50 AM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 15
I Used Peel and Seal, yes its made for the roofing industry, and yes I used it, and lots of it. I started out with about 50 sqft, I really wanted to see if the rumor was true, this stuff was just as good as dynamat and such forth. I want to say, this stuff is sticky! As long as you clean your surface well, it will stick to anything!
I put this stuff in a Jeep. Jeeps are noisy and rattle a ton. I beefed up the firewall, and behind the dash. I beefed up all the wheel wells. and then did the roof and floors. I had to go back and buy more for the doors. First off, this stuff DOES work, and for less than a brand name, its worth it. It doesn't stink either, If you put your nose right next to the asphalt and inhale, sure you'll smell it, but 5 months later, and it being in a Texas Summer, its still stuck and it doesn't smell. The Jeep has much less road noise, and no vibrations. I think for $12.47 for a 6"x24' Cant remember the exact size... Its well worth it.
I put this stuff in a Jeep. Jeeps are noisy and rattle a ton. I beefed up the firewall, and behind the dash. I beefed up all the wheel wells. and then did the roof and floors. I had to go back and buy more for the doors. First off, this stuff DOES work, and for less than a brand name, its worth it. It doesn't stink either, If you put your nose right next to the asphalt and inhale, sure you'll smell it, but 5 months later, and it being in a Texas Summer, its still stuck and it doesn't smell. The Jeep has much less road noise, and no vibrations. I think for $12.47 for a 6"x24' Cant remember the exact size... Its well worth it.
11-20-2005, 07:13 AM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3
Fat Mat
Here are a number of various companies whom produce deadeners. Many members have used many different brands. This list is in no particular order. Many of these brands are cheaper because they come factory direct, thereby eliminating the middle-man cost. Click on the brand name to link to their site.[/COLOR]
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
I noticed in your reply that you mentioned FatMat but did not leave an opinion on them. Any recommendataions? Are they effective? Good value?
Thanks
BDA_Max
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
Second Skin Audio
*This is my weapon of choice. Anthony, the owner of SS, can be reached on his cell phone at any time to answer your questions. Unrivaled customer service and frequently holds GDs on their forums.
eDead
*Highly affordable solution to deadening
I noticed in your reply that you mentioned FatMat but did not leave an opinion on them. Any recommendataions? Are they effective? Good value?
Thanks
BDA_Max
Cascade Audio
*Expensive but worth every penny
Quiet Car
*No reviews available
Stinger Roadkill
*Very expensive, very effective
B-Quiet
*Another good alternative
Raam Mat
*Arguably the best mat available, esp. when layered
Brown Bread
*Good, but better can be found.
Dynamat
*Good, but not worth the price at all.
Fatmat
Peel n' Seal
*Used in the roofing industry. Stinks, doesn't work well.
01-22-2006, 01:19 PM
#16
My Hushmat Experience
Originally Posted by maxmale
Does anyone have any info on hush mat?
01-22-2006, 01:30 PM
#17
Extreme SoundProofing
After googling a search for local sound proofing companies I came across a place called Extreme Soundproofing and decided to check out what they had to offer. After talking with Maureen, the owner and explaining to her my dilema I was having with sound deadening the car she showed me some products that could help out. There were closed cell foams, mats, and liquid deadeners. So I went with the vinyl mass loaded mat and some liquid deadener called Quiet Cote. The mat is thick, 1" thick and requires either Liquid Nails or some other type of heavy epoxy to get it to stick, especially on vertical surfaces such as the trunk lid.
Haven't gotten around to using the mass loaded vinyl but the Quiet Cote has worked wonders on the car doors and as of this morning, the trunk. Although I had already used and Dyn Ext trunk kit, I still got noise from the rear exhaust and also from the subs. I am totally against the trunk rattling craze these idiots out here like. After applying 1 layer of it, I could tell a difference. It puts you in the mind of Sludge from Second Skin. I applied 2 layers, it dries in as a little as 30 minutes and leaves just a slight smell that wears off in about a day.
Check out their website, www.yahoosoundproofing.com for a list of their products. Maureen will work with you on prices.
After googling a search for local sound proofing companies I came across a place called Extreme Soundproofing and decided to check out what they had to offer. After talking with Maureen, the owner and explaining to her my dilema I was having with sound deadening the car she showed me some products that could help out. There were closed cell foams, mats, and liquid deadeners. So I went with the vinyl mass loaded mat and some liquid deadener called Quiet Cote. The mat is thick, 1" thick and requires either Liquid Nails or some other type of heavy epoxy to get it to stick, especially on vertical surfaces such as the trunk lid.
Haven't gotten around to using the mass loaded vinyl but the Quiet Cote has worked wonders on the car doors and as of this morning, the trunk. Although I had already used and Dyn Ext trunk kit, I still got noise from the rear exhaust and also from the subs. I am totally against the trunk rattling craze these idiots out here like. After applying 1 layer of it, I could tell a difference. It puts you in the mind of Sludge from Second Skin. I applied 2 layers, it dries in as a little as 30 minutes and leaves just a slight smell that wears off in about a day.
Check out their website, www.yahoosoundproofing.com for a list of their products. Maureen will work with you on prices.
01-25-2006, 08:00 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 297
I have used and love second skin, i bought it all at a very great GD goin on here, i used the Damplifier mats on the doors(1 layer) trunk(2 layers) trunk lid(3 layers) and rear deck(1 layer), then i put there spectrum "sludge" liquid deadner every where, 2 coats of it, the differance was amazing, the trunk has no rattle at all, the car is very quite, sounds excelent, bass responce has greatly improved, there owner Anthony Collova is a great guy and works very hard to make you are happy with his product, he also anwsered my questions about what would be the best products to use. If i where to do another car there is no doubt in my mind i would use second skin products, i have yet to use there "Over Kill" a closed cell foam
02-19-2006, 11:53 AM
#19
Can anyone tell me how the doors feel after deadening a 5th Generation?
I have a 2002 SE and the doors feel very light and close without much of a clank. All of you owners of the 5th gen I'm sure you know what I mean.
How do the doors close after applying one or more layers of peel-n-stick? Are they noticebaly harder to close? Any weird clanks? Is the door much heavier and does that mess with the door components in any way (squeeks, too much weight, etc.)
Thanks.
I have a 2002 SE and the doors feel very light and close without much of a clank. All of you owners of the 5th gen I'm sure you know what I mean.
How do the doors close after applying one or more layers of peel-n-stick? Are they noticebaly harder to close? Any weird clanks? Is the door much heavier and does that mess with the door components in any way (squeeks, too much weight, etc.)
Thanks.
02-19-2006, 01:43 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Alot more solid sound and feeling. A nice Thud when closing the door behind you. Although if your speaking of "peel&seal" then Id stay away, very far away.
What about liquid, such as Second Skin Spectrum Spray?
BTW, pearl, whats the name of your store? I am about 15 min from Edison.
03-18-2006, 09:21 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Alot more solid sound and feeling. A nice Thud when closing the door behind you. Although if your speaking of "peel&seal" then Id stay away, very far away.
03-19-2006, 04:58 PM
#23
Originally Posted by LTU_max
What's wrong with peel and seal? I'm thinking about using this for my 4th gen doors and trunk, is there something I'm missing out? I know it's not Dynamat, but it's very similiar. I've seen people use this on their Cadillacs, and it didn't smell from the write up they did. Any other thoughts on this Peel and Seal?
06-06-2006, 06:08 AM
#27
08-05-2006, 04:24 AM
#33
How to sound proof a paint can!
Eight simple & short, but interesting "how to" videos using a coffee or paint can, of all things, to demonstrate applying sound deadening.
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/article.php?a=4
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/article.php?a=4
08-07-2006, 08:41 AM
#34
I just did it with Edead a few weeks ago. Same texture as Dynamat but $1 per sq ft on Ebay. You cut small pieces off the roll/sheets, peel off backing and press in place. The more you do, the easier it gets. I used about 80 sq ft with one layer in trunk, rear deck/back seat & wheel wells, front floor/wells and doors. On front door, I put the mat on the panel trim: I felt it was less of a mess if I ever had to work on window mechanism. It added about 20 lbs to my car. The BASS from my Bose is much stronger. Road noise is lower by 4-6 DB. Again, one layer. A slight tar smell will go away after one or two days. Use a tool and your fist, otherwise you will pull the skin from under your nails trying to press the stuff. Really worth it.
09-03-2006, 06:03 PM
#35
I went the Frost King duct insulation route this evening. Only installed on front doors, but will be doing rear doors and decklid in the near future. It's actually 1/8" thick, not 1/4" thick as stated in early post.
Here is more info and pics...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=490108
Will try to post a follow-up a few weeks/months down the road to let all know how it holds up over time.
Here is more info and pics...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=490108
Will try to post a follow-up a few weeks/months down the road to let all know how it holds up over time.
11-06-2006, 12:20 PM
#36
Anyone have experience with this stuff from www.mcmaster.com? Search for 9709T26. I've read on some other car forums that this stuff works great for sound deadening and is really cheap.
