Progress

iTrader: (26)

I went with RAAMmat BXT 60. I did the front doors, rear deck and trunk lid.

I'm going to do the rear doors and trunk next.

Don, sorry I balked on the CAE stuff.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

I used some Dynamat Original today for my trunk spare tire area. This stuff is straight up garbage compared Dynamats Extreme brand. Its not nearly as tacky or durable. If anyone is going with Dynamat then go with all Extreme.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

No problem, although I wish I at least got a chance to send you a sample. It would have changed your mind quickly !

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Ahh Lenny, I thought you had Extreme. Yes the asphalt original is pure crap. Better off with peel and seel from depot.

2THEMAX98

iTrader: (1)

i just did my car with fatmat and its working great on my rear deck and on my doors but my trunk lid is still rattling like a tin can! i put 2 layers down to help but its not, any suggestions? don whats that stuff you speak of? also one note is i think my trunk rattles a lot because 1. my spoiler tabs broke on one side and u get rattle from that(bought the car like that) 2. now my trunk wont open with the remote so i tried something (lol i know) and so it doesn't fully close if that makes sense so those things contribute to the rattling

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

Yeah Im definitely going to rip this crap out luckily I didn't get very far in the trunk just added two pieces and I was like WTF is this garbage. Don I need some of this Cascade Vb2 I believe you used it in my front doors. I guess I need 50 sq ft to finish trunk spare tire area and perimeter and also rear deck top and bottom. Trunk Lid is Done Dynamat Extreme is good stuff.

Fenton3030

iTrader: (1)

dont really like doing these things so what retail shop do you would do this stuff for me

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Any audio shop should be skilled enough to put deadening down.

Too bad you're not closer to kpr10is or slickrick.

Progress

iTrader: (26)

Try doing it yourself. The labor costs are going to really cut into the feasibility of the project. You'd be surprised at how efficient you can get on apply the deadener after a few short hours. It just takes time.

Om3r

Hi guys, could someone help me how to get my ipod/iphone connected on my Nissan Maxima 2004 SE? What parts i need and it is possible to connected on the SAT option that i don't use?? thx.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127AAIN...i+nis2&tp=1672

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_581PA11...n&tp=120&avf=N

Though you may want to call to confirm which fits.

Next time, post in the right thread.

06maxxedmax

is fatmat pretty decent?

06maxxedmax

okay i cant start new threads for some reason so i hope you guys dont mind me asking this here but i have an 06 maxima wit the armrest elite package thing in the rear. how do i remove the rear deck so i can apply sound deadening on it?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Because you don't have enough posts. Remove rear seats, remove c-pillars, lift deck.

06maxxedmax

how do i remove the rear seats? are the elite package seats any harder to get out?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Are those the bucket seats? I've never done a 6th gen with the elite package.

I'm sure its the same principle. Feel under the lower part of the seat for some pull tabs, remove lower seat to reveal the bolts for the backrest part.

06maxxedmax

Thanks so much finally was able to get the rear deck out I didn't realize the bottom parts of the seats has pull tabs on them. It was pretty much the same way cept you have to unbolt the back part of the arm rest that opens the ski port. The thing that was causing all the rattle was the rear sunshade bracket. It's a long piece of metal that is bolted on each side but there's no support in the middle so it flexes up and down and rattles. Stuffed a strip of styrafoam in the middle and taped it down with duct tape to keep it from bouncing up. Then sound deadened the entire decklid with fatmat xtreme 80mil. Then poked out the holes for the rear deck clips and stuffed a bag of polyfill under the rear deck lid all around. It went from useless bass cause it rattled so much to clean clear bass that sounds amazing. It looks ghetto as hell but no one can tell as long they never open the deck lid again.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Cool, nice job.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Hey guys, I want to reduce road noise and engine noise, but don't want to add a ton of weight to the car. I don't need it so quiet that I can hear a pin drop, but it would be nice if my headers and exhaust were a little quieter in the cabin. Just wondering if fatmat all over the floor would do the trick for now. I may go with boom mat because I can get a better price than ebay because it wouldn't have to be shipped.

Or I'm thinking of getting the DEI stuff that goes under the car and put that in the exhaust tunnel.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Floor, wheel wells and roof would do a lot for road noise. But if you want to reduce engine noise you'll have to address the firewall.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Well, if the floor carpeting is removed I should be able to do half the firewall? I don't want to rip the dash out.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Ya, that would give you some visibility.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

www.cascadeaudio.com or waste money or the others.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

I guess I should have mentioned I am on a budget. LOL, But there is a guy not too far from me selling 42 sq feet of vb2 which is very cheap considering the prices I've seen on the net.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

If you're on a budget then don't get anything at all until you can afford decent product. Don't do it just for the sake of doing it, because all you can afford is a mediocre product. You WONT be happy in the end.

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

Well, from what I have read on the cascade site, I would probably need the 3 pack of vb-2, just for my doors, then at least that much more for the rest of the car. and probably the vb-3 for the tranny tunnel. That's a lot of cash.

I think I would prefer to use the light vb-2 everywhere even the floor and trunk due to the light weight. Now since I am on a budget, and I can get a 3 pack from a local guy pretty cheap (he bought too much and is selling the extra 3 pack) I'm thinking I'll grab this 3 pack for now and install it. When I save up more cash I'll buy more and install it. So would I be better using it for the 4 doors? Or should I put this first batch on the floors?

travis1129

it depends on where your most problem area is, if its wind noise start on your doors and pillers, if its exhuast start on your floor,i personally have always run dynomat extreme, one of my cars is completely covered in 2 layers of it, i can hear an aint fart, its a bit overpriced but i feel they results are worth it

knight_yyz

iTrader: (40)

i'm trying to keep weight down, I like to go to the track, so double or triple layer of stuff is out of the question

Emaximus

Anyone know if this Zilla-Mat stuff is any good? They actually send a sample of Dynamat with the purchase so you can compare. It IS on eBay so not sure of the quality.

dtfstock

iTrader: (2)

Would I be better off with RAAMmat II everywhere or RAAMmat BXT and double-up in certain areas? Going to top it off with the Ensolite MLC unless I find another solution I like better.

Also, if I do the floor will I be able to re-use my carpet or will I trash it getting it out?

8675309v2

I have over 300' of 80 mil mat in the car and still have to add mat in places to stop all of the rattle

brianfu777

Anyone know how to remove a 2007 maxima rear deck?

I know there is a rattle coming from the trunk when the car's at a constant speed.
I can't pinpoint where it's coming from, It sounds like it's from the rear deck..
somewhere between the rear speakers..

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Remove the rear seats and C pillars. It just unclips after that.

j-dawg

well here i answered some of my questions with research. cool.

ANYWAY, i have some more questions. I'm really only looking to reduce road noise here, don't care much about audio as the factory Bose is good enough for me. eDead: does it suck? I'm lookin' at about 60-70sqft for all four doors and perhaps the wheel wells and perhaps the rear seat if any is left to quiet highway noise a bit. For eDead 45, that's like 60-70 dollars plus shipping which is Not Bad At All. I realize it's probably not the same quality as Raammat but it's half the price and I'm not looking for audiophile quality here, just quiet.

The other thing is that a lot of these companies claim dampener isn't going to help with road noise and then try to sell their foams, like the Ensolite on the Raammat site. Can I just buy that instead of dampener and will it kill the road noise? Or should I use both? From what I've been reading, it sounds like everyone besides the manufacturers of this stuff says that the dampener on the doors will really quiet road noise a lot, even without the foam.

So: eDead 45 - does it suck? And can I just use Ensolite instead of bothering with the damper? Also, anyone used jute under the carpets to shut things up a bit?

TIA

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I have always been a fan of Dynamat Xtreme because of its ease of installation and it longevity. I personally am into car audio probably more than the average guy and have seen numerous sound deadening products fail. In my humble opinion, NEVER and I mean NEVER use the spray on stuff. Unless some new product has come out that I am unaware of this stuff is messy and it simply doesn't work. Over time you will realize this as it starts to fall off and then in order to take it all off? you better free up your day. I have Dynamatted the top and bottom of my 4th gen's rear deck, the entire trunk lid, driver and pass. side front and rear doors. Dynamat is a very nice product and albeit expensive, it does what it says and it readily available at both Walmart and best buy. For people reading this thread and thinking of installing sound deadening material in their Max. In my opinion, the best places to start is where you put your aftermarket speakers. If you install components or coaxials in your doors then deaden the doors with the install. If you put a sub/amp combo in the trunk the deaden the trunk lid first. Hope this helps out and adds to the threads value.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Instead of going with the cheap stuff I would go to best buy and buy Dynamat Xtreme. You can price match it to Sears or Walmart and lower the price as well. This stuff works, plain and simple. Instead of double layering the cheap stuff and it still not working, why not single layer good stuff in critical areas to save money? There are certain areas that are more important than others. The doors and the trunk lids will not only lessen road noise but also keep the music inside of the car where you want it, which is an advantage of sound deadening that most people forget.

EuroDriver

iTrader: (21)

Don't forget the plastic lid behind/around the license plate holder in the trunk. I stuffed mine from behind with double-sided foam tape and that took care of ALL my rattling.

A nice, budget solution for you may be to get the firewall insulation pad off a BMW/Mercedes at a boneyard. They are very thick and have that aluminum layer on the surface. Extremely effective. Hopefully not that hard to cut it to fit on your firewall.

Toxic!

iTrader: (3)

CDL Tiles. YES or NO? I got no results when I searched here.

maxiiiboy

Good question. The short answer is YES, imho.

This guy (Don Sambrook at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products) seems to know. He uses different products to deal with the three key issues:

• CDL tiles to control panel vibration.
• MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) to block airborne noise.
• CCF (Closed Cell Foam) to isolate rubbing parts and to eliminate rattles.

I am trying to figure out: Do products like Dynamat (or Damplifier/B-Quiet/etc.) solve all three problems? My guess is that they do reduce vibration and perhaps rattle, but that they do not help with Airborne Noise.

So, to answer you question: I think Dynamat is a CDL-like product but perhaps it does a bit more.