I have wired the Bose tweeters in the pillars to my Eclipse components but would like to cross them over at a high frequency to give just a hint of sound, basically to raise the soundstage. Can someone recommend how I should cross them over and at what frequency? I'm guessing that I should just use a standard capacitor unless someone sells a crossover for this specific use...


Also, I have completed installing a 10" sub that fires into the cabin of the vehicle and mounted it to a front facia that expands almost all the way across the pass-through area. I have not sealed the gaps and I think I have some serious cancellation is going on. Can anyone suggest the best way to seal those gaps, gaps are approximately 3" wide at the bottom between the box face and the pass through and about 2" at the top? I have quite a bit of cascade sound deading material on order to cover the rear deck and face behind the seat, (plug the little holes and dampen the metal. Anything else I should be thinking about when sealing the trunk?

I might add a port from the top of the box up through the rear deck. My port specifications are approx. 11.81" in length and 3.84" in width. Of course the port length and width were given in cm (metric) and I guess I'll have to convert. The closest pvc pipe width is 4" which is very large. Any problem with having a port that wide?

Thanks for hanging through the details! I figured I would throw all my problems out at once.

 

I would dump the Bose tweets and either replace or don't use them. They are terrible.

I have read that you will get the best results from the port firing on the same plane as your sub. I say build another box to the specified size for your driver and fire the 10 and the port forward through the skipass area. Build a faceplate that attatches to the box and also seals of that 3" gap you have. More work, maybe, but well worth it.

As far as the port, build a slot port instead of using PVC peices. IMHO, it looks much nicer and allows you to finish the details on the box easier than trying to cover up PVC.

Def put at least one layer of Cascade on the rear deck to seal it off. The only real cutting you should have to do is for the seatbelts and of coarse cutting to fit the deck itself.

 

Okay, I have an extra set of Eclipse tweeters I will use to replace the Bose but I still would like to cross them over at a high frequency and use them for lifting my soundstage off the floor. Any recommendations???

Also, I am going for pure SQ and have not had the chance to see a SQ install with a slot port. I also prefer not to rebuild the box so I guess I'll have to try an angled port in the box and keep the port on the same plane. Still, anyone heard of problems with having a port too large 4" diam.

I'll post some pictures soon to give you an idea of what I am working with...


Thanks for the input filtor1.

 

For pure SQ. I would stay sealed. I didn't know that was the route you were going. You will pay for acuracy (in general) with a ported enclosure. As far as crossover point. It depends on the tweeters. Are you running active or passive? If passive, the crossover that came with the components will give you a base and then you would use the deck to tweak from there. If active, use the manufactures recommended crossover point(dependant upon model and application) and you will have a good head start on the tuning.

 

I would fire the sub towards the rear. You get about a 3 db increase.

 

He'll get the most bass by firing the sub directly into the cabin. If he makes a box that sits in the trunk itself, then yes, facing it towards the rear may give him that boost.

Tony

 

Like filtor1 said, if your main goal is SQ then I'd stick with a sealed box.

Check out my home page for pictures of my aperiodic install. I don't have that exact setup any more, but you will get the general idea of what I needed to go through to get the trunk sealed off from the rest of the car. Interestingly enough, when I laid the seats down it sounded MUCH worse than if I left them in their upright positions. In my opinion, mounting the sub(s) so they fire directly in the cabin is FAR FAR superior than any other method I have heard for getting the bass into the car. If you take your time and do it right I guarantee you won't be disapointed.

As far as mounting additional tweeters in the pillars, your xover point is only part of the issue. You will undoubtedly want to control their volume level as well. I wouldn't even try it without having some way to attenuate their volume relative to your components. You could do this by driving them off of the head unit's built-in amplifier (depending on your particular installation) or by using a separate power amplifier altogether.

Let us know what you decide to do and how it sounds!

Tony

 

Thanks all,

I appreciate the advice. My components consist of Eclipse 6.5 inch mids with 1 inch tweeter and are run with a passive crossover. The additional tweeters I want to add will be crossed over like 10 Khz (barely audible), the point being that the ear and brain will together read it as audible throughout the front stage and appear to raise the level. I got this recommendation from a car audio shop nearby where I live. They also recommended that I go ported with the focal Utopia sub I purchased. It is very accurate by nature. However, you make a good point about the sealed, filtor1 and Tony F. I think I will seal off the trunk and see how it sounds before trying to port it.

As far as controlling the gain on the tweeters I have an adjustment built into the Eclipse crossover's specifically for them. : ) I've googled all over and can't find any info for setting up tweeters as super tweeters.

Well, I get the cascade on Tue. so I should have some pictures up for you all soon. Thanks again for the info...

Chemsol

 

Any time. Good luck and have fun....