Tools:

10mm Socket
12mm Socket
3/8 inch Ratchet

Materials:

~10 ft of 0 or 4 gauge wire
Six 0 or 4 gauge Ring terminals
Wire cutter
AGU/ANL Fuse holder and 100 amp fuse

Purpose:

The purpose of the Big 3 is to upgrade your existing factory wiring. The upgrade allow for more voltage and therefore a better electrical system. This is a MUST if you have a high powered stereo. It also stops dimming and voltage drops.

How To:

The big 3 consist of 3 wires:

1. Alternator to battery
2. Battery Ground to chassis ground
3. Engine Ground to chassis ground

1. This is fairly simple. Disconnect the battery. Remove the 10mm screw on your alternator holoding the power wire. ADD your wire with the terminal and then connect the factory ring terminal. Run it back to the battery leaving a little leeway. After running it, add the fuse holder and fuse to this wire. The fuse holder serves a purpose because if god forbid you crash your car it and this wire grounds out, it wont cause a fire.

2.

This is also very easy. Measure and cut about a foot of wire. Crimp a terminal on each end. Connect one end to the negative terminal on the battery. Then connect the other end to metal on the chassis. **MAKE SURE THAT YOU SAND THE GROUNDING POINT ON THE CHASSIS DOWN TO METAL** If you dont do this it takes away the purpose of the entire thing.

3.
This one can be done a few ways. The alternator is connected to the engine block so you can either unscrew the alternator bracket bolt(part holding the alternator up)and stick the ring terminal between the engine block and alternator bracket and then screw it back up. Then take the other end and gorund it to the chassis. OR, if you look under the intake towards the left you'll see a engine grounding point with a 12mm nut on it. You can disconnect this nut,add your crimped wire, screw it back down and then gorund it the chassis. Once again, MAKE SURE YOU SAND IT DOWN TO THE METAL.

Im not responsible for anything that you may mess up doing this, its just a idea. If you would like more info please visit this link.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...c;f=5;t=007801

PICS:[IMG][/IMG] This shows #3
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I'll try and get more detailed pics if enough people want, those were pics I already had on my computer.

 

Can you zoom in on the engine to chassis ground? or get another pic. This is really helpful I wanted to do this. Also did you not use the stock neg to ground location cause it is kinda rusted down there?

 

I'll get more detailed pics this weekend. Im not sure what you mean by your question, care to elaborate?

 

My stock negative to ground point is rusted and so I was wondering should I still use it, sand it down, or just make a new point like you did what would be best?

 

nice little writeup. quick question though, how close is that wire going down the radiator to the front exhaust manifold? i'd imagine the intense heat would affect the insulation on that wire...

 

The wire is pretty far from the manifold. Once its not making physical contact it shouldn't be a problem. New pics will be up this afternoon, kinda forgot about this thread. Generation, either way will work. If you do sand it just make sure its clean and to the metal.

 

i was waiting for some better pics, but i might as well say it now...your fuses are too far. it's a good rule of thumb to fuse within 18" of the source. when you have time you should move them closer.