It's been a long time since I was heavy into audio. I have reused the parts of systems I have built years ago as I've moved from car to car. I currently have an issue with my subs. I'm running a sealed box with 2-12s (aprox 1.25cf per side). I'm using an older Cerwin Vega 3200 series amp, 2 channel bridged for 320rms @4 ohms. I had a set of Kicker comp12s 150rms/300peak. The power fuses in the amp blew when I set them up for 2ohm load, so I ran them in series for about a year before the first one failed. I replaced that set with Nakamichi 124s (forgot I could not run a 2ohm load) they were very weak sounding in series, so I just ran one for a while. As expected I blew them one at a time over about 6 mths. I now want to replace them with a pair of 4 ohm DVC subs so I can get to correct load for my amp. My problem is what sub to use. I listen to a mix of music and perfer sound quality vs mega bass. It is hard to pick since I've been out of the mix for so long.... some of the brands I see recommended were flea market brands back in the day. I don't need anything over the top, my area issues tickets if they can hear you 25 feet away (how gay is that... I can fart that loud) I want a pair of 12s that I won't blow with 320rms (not hard) but also sound good at that level of power.

 

I would do a pair of D6 12's. Call Don for pricing. I have a pair of TDX 12's you can listen to for comparison. The D6's are more oriented tward SQ. And are less expensive. They also come in dual 4 ohm vc configurations to fit your application. Sounds like you might want to upgrade your amp too. Oh the damage we could do. Let me know if your interested. I am in Gainesville Mon-Thurs. I know some great install teams in the area too if you need any assistance.

 

Have you considered a single sub setup? Lots of guys, including myself, are now running a single sub. For best SQ (which it sounds like is your goal) you really have a lot of options. I agree, you should contact Don aka Pearl96Max for more options and pricing.

 

Also that blowing subs issue needs to get resolved. You're doing something wrong if you're blowing subs out with that much effieciency

 

well the Kickers were used .. I bought them from a guy in my car club. I really just wanted the box. When they failed I just chalked it up to their age. The Nakamichis were my fault... the amp makes 320rms and the speakers were rated 150rms and 300peak. They still play.. I hooked them up in series and found that both are making a metalic rattling noise inside. The resistance across the speakers has dropped also, I think the voice coils are damaged. I have gone back thru everything I can think of, and find no problems with the amp install or wiring. 10ga wires to the speakers and 4ga power and ground to the amp. I set the levels by ear and using the db meter in the amp. This amp is one of the old "db drag" series by Cerwin Vega and I have a feeling the advertised rms is below actual output.

thanks for all the info guys

 

Maybe so but even having too much power in an amp doesnt mean they will blow out. They shouldn't. Distortion is probably what did it. Just make sure you set it up properly or just let filtor do it hehe

 

I think it may be an issue within the amp. High THD, internal issues. Just a thought though.

 

hey if you wanna hear a single 15 off minimal power that will knock on those kickers pm me. BTW, my friend claims ASO has a new rule where "10 feet" is the new standard because they are looking for loud exhuasts and systems. either way i can rip *** and be heard 25 feet away, hence its a BS rule.

 

filtor1..... is there any way I can test the amp ?? I have concern that it may be the issue. I've had subs in all my cars since the 80s and never blown subs like this.... I've worn a few out and burnt a few amps running under rated loads.

slickrick.... watch yourself in Gainesville, ASO has been writing alot of stupid tickets for exhaust and systems. The statue for "excessive noise" is undefined to any measured level, basicly if they can hear you in excess of 25ft they can issue a ticket based on their own whims. Most have been issued on University ave around UF. I know 2 people with stock systems that have citations. The exhaust issue is a FL statue.. 2 in fact. 1 states that exhaust can't be modified in any way from OE. I guess all the muffler shops might as well close up shop. 2 states that exhaust can't be modified to exceed factory sound levels.... we found a by line that sets the max level at 79db @ 35mph for anything under 10,000gvw. Some of my friends are currently fighting these tickets, one of witch is still waiting for a verdict from the traffic court.

BTW PM sent.

 

pm not received...yeah my friend/roomate who told me about the cops cracking down got a noise violation for his stock corolla system last year on campus. i hate any cop in gainesville pretty much. they need to catch some crack dealers by waldo instead of ticketing kids with music.

 

Unfortunately I don't know how to. If you can swing it, replace the amp with any 05' Diamond amp. Lifetime warranty. Enough said there. If it isn't the amp, it is def the way the amp was set up. gain too high/bass boost on. Things of that nature. Most subs blow from prolonged esposure to distortion. If you need to or are dead set on keeping the current amplifier, try retuning it. Turning off bass boost like controls and work on matching the subs ohm load to the amp you have.

A friend of mine got busted on Williston Rd. around 34th street. Motorcycle cop said he got him at 400.3ft. That situation is warranted. This 25ft law is BS. I hope they start ticketing motorcycles too. I hate when they roll up next to you revving their engines while your bumping and the cops look the other way, and write you the ticket. The whole thing is stupid. I wish they would atleast ticket for EVERY loud noise and not just us. This is descrimination on soo many levels. I'll stop while my BP is still under control.

 

It may be me... the amp does have crossover and db gain built in. It also has a dash mounted db gain (vega bass). I tuned it with the db gain enabled and set at max, so I would not go into distortion with the db gain after tuned. Set volume just below where the mids and highs start to clip.... set the subs volt gain to a level below distortion I could hear and middle of the green on the amps db level meter. Just like the owners manual ... I read instructions lol

 

Nice. I do too. The only problem with setting it up like that is all music is recorded at different levels. The music you choose to tune it with may have been recorded lowere than another. If you were listening to it at say volume 20 of 30 as you normally do and are now listening to something with a ton more bass, you wouldn't necessarily hear the distortion from the subs. I have blown subs in the past this way. I think you tuned it perfectly, and by the book. The book doesn't account for that small level of distortion due to level or quality of recorded material.

I am just throwing out ideas from my experience. It could be one or all of the above.

 

I used a bass cd with the hardest hitting track. I'm starting to wonder if I tuned at the "best" hz and it was distorting at other hzs??? the last car I had with subs in the trunk was about 15yrs ago (free air setup) all the others have been a hatch back design... easy to hear distortion in a hatch .... hard in the trunk. Other than that I tuned about 3db below where recommended thinking that would give some extra protection??

 

15 year old subs are happy to be alive.

 

Well they are not really alive, I have them in a box in the garage. The surrounds are seperated and the dust caps are gone.. the voice coils are still good. Old school Kicker freeair 12s circa 1987. The Saber ported box and Yamaha amp I replaced them with (1990-1991) was still bumping a few yrs ago when I sold the car they were in. I have swapped parts around from so many cars over the years it's not even funny. My Z has a ADS amp running the mids and highs from around 1989-1990.

 

The 12" DVC from O Audio. It's built by TC Sounds and has the lowest measured distortion of any sub on the market - link.

 

for TC Sounds. Love my SS RL-p

 

I love the SS RL-p that Ascendant has, and that's what I'm looking to get. But I'm always open to other options. How does the O Audio sub sound? I'm looking more for sound quality than absolute bass as well.

 

i say alpine, you wont be disappointed, if u get a box with the subs factory size specs for a box, you'll have nice clean, tight, accurate bass, i have two type r's in a box thats got two chambers, each has .89 cubic feet, the factory spec is .85, plus the box is fitted to my back seat, hence that size problem, but its very tight

 

SQ? low power? pair of 12's?

I like..

Alumapro Alchemy MX's(classic sq subs, get pretty loud too)
Arc KAR series subs (nice price,all around great performance)
Soundstream Exacts
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-670

 

Ascendant Audio doesn't carry any subs built by TC Sounds. They source their subs from Destijl Engineering. The Soundsplinter RL-p is based on the TC-9 motor structure. Same as the old flat cone Elemental Designs "A" series and the aluminium cone "Ae" series. Great sub but still can't match the quality of the TC2+ motor.

Should sound almost exactly like the SS RL-i series or the old flatcone "K" series from ED since they all use the TC2+ motor. A friend of mine upgraded from an 10" MTX8500 to an ED K 10" and it was like night and day. The bass was lower and cleaner. The TC Sounds sub was better all around.

-Robert

 

I believe he means Ascendant(max) the forum member, not Ascendant the company.

The RL-p's are very nice build, not many sub manufacturers using copper short cut rings in the motor period, nevermind at that price point.

 

yeah hes referring to Gordon.

 

I missed that one completely. I get it now.

You are correct. I have some Lambda Acoustics that use a copper farraday ring in the motor. The 10" models started at $259 back in the day. I got them used for $40 each.

-Robert

 

I have a Sound Splinter RL-i10. The little thing has nice clean sound, and is no slouch in the output department. It is a very nice sub, especially for the price.

By the way, it also has those copper shorting rings .