OK I looked at the stickies and this is what they have 97-99:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpr10is
97 Maxima Wiring:

The ignition harness wiring changes colors at a plug, so the following is both colors.

12 volts: white/red or white/purple, (+), ignition harness
Starter: black/yellow or black/white, (+), ignition harness
Second Starter: green/black or red/blue, (+), ignition harness
Ignition: black/white or black/red, (+), ignition harness
Accessory: red/yellow or red, (+), ignition harness
Second Accessory: blue or white/blue, (+), ignition harness
End Quote

Now I look at Alldata and they say:
12 volts: white/purple, (+), ignition harness
Starter: black/white, (+), ignition harness
Second Starter: red/blue, (+), ignition harness
Ignition 1:black/red
Ignition 2: red
Accessory1:White/blue
Accessory 2: None

Who's right? Some please help me or shoot me! May back hurts, my mind is aching and my car is grinding (tach learn is on and programed). I hate this ****.

 

Iam pretty postive the first Scheme is correct

 

What are you trying to do? You could just use a Bosch relay...

 

I am wiring in a remote start that links up with an exsiting aftermarket alarm. I am using the exsiting starter kill on the alarm and wiring and dioding that to the remote start for an anti grind and that works (no grind when remote starting and key is moved to start). I have wired both starter wires and that's fine too. But on occasion the it sound like the starter fails to disengage once the engine is running. I have programed the tach learning and now rechecking the wires and I found this when I was looking at ALLDATA's schematics:

Blue or White/Blue: Powers Cigar, Def, El-Mirror, Wiper, Theft, Phone, Audio, P/Ant, Clock
Red/Yellow or Red: Powers All Engine related equipment (Fuel Pump, EGR, ABS, A/T Etc.) Heater, A/C, Blower

Now I am wondering if it has to do with the wires and which one is right and if that's why the starter fails to disengage at times. I Have the Code Alarm CSI-400 remote start(I did not know they sucked until I had it wired in) and the DEI alarm. One more thing I have a relay from radio shack to jump to the second starter wire, does it matter if it's not bosch?

 

I forget all the wiring colors but I do remember that there was at least one color wrong on all of the online wiring diagrams. I used the haynes manual as a guide and a multimeter to tripple check all the wiring prior to hooking up the remote start/alarm. As far as relays are concerned I've had problems with radio shak ones, they seem to fail during cold weather (<30 degrees) while mounted in the engine bay. I switched over to pilot relays and haven't had any problems. (they can be found at pep boys in accessory/fog light section).

 

Well swaped the wires and now they match Alldata wiring schem. I check the wiring with the meter as well as jumping those in question to a 12 volt and ALLDATA seems right. Car is working fine now . If I have problems with the relay I will changed them out, I put them in an easy access location. I tried playing with a negative pulse afterstart output from the remote start and hooked that up to the horn so it tells me when the car is started, BAD IDEA, very loud an annoying if anyone was thinking about trying that. Aside from that...
THANKS FOR THE HELP

 

The ones I posted are straight from Directed Electronics, and Ive used them on a hundred different cars or so, never had a problem.

As long as you figured it out.

 

Yup your right saw that on direct as well. When you think of how the car starts, the wires in both ignition and accessory are not energized during the initial start and when it switches from "crank" to "on" both are then energized, but for some reason it help out my problem... or is it possible that the remote start requires a couple of runs before it determines the optimal starter release.