Local store is moving down the street and has their last 12" W3 for $160. They are authorized so the warranty is good.

Or, I can get an ID12v3 for like $145 from sounddomain.com.

I am running the stock non-bose HU and speakers with no plans to upgrade. It will be powered by a Planet Audio D class amp.

350rms@4ohms
600rms@2ohms
850rm@1ohm

Does it really matter what impedence I run it at? It seems like either sub will get sufficient power at any resistence. THANKS!

 

ID hands down.

 

Definitely ID

 

ID nuff said i had w3's before i got my ID max's. i mean its a obviously huge difference, but i wasnt too happy with the way the JL's sounded

 

hmmmmm I wonder which I would recommend??????

 

Why not go with an IDQ, it can't be that much more. I had paid $130 for my IDQ10 d4, v2 about 3 years ago.

 

Are the IDQv2 that much better than a IDv3?


The idea is to keep it in a very small, sealed box so my bigass hockey bag will still fit in my trunk.

 

ive heard there is a world of difference between the ID v2 and v3, i heard the v 3 sounds alot better, in ID max form tho. im not so sure about IDq's i would probably get the v3 ne way.

 

v3 FTW...

 

Hmmm I wonder....

 

IDQ can work with a smaller sealed box than the ID. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/

 

I don't have time (or a garage anymore-and it's pretty damn cold out there) to build a box, so I'll be buying a prefab-and of course making sure it's airtight.

.8 cuft. vs. .55 cuft. isn't much of a difference to me. I guess I should have said that as long as the box is <1.0 cuft then I'm good to go.

 

bahhh... i can still fit my huge hockey bag in my max with a 3.e5cuft box, but my hockey sticks are a different story.

 

Don't lie to us, there isn't ice anywhere near Florida. Dead hookers though, that's a whole other story.

edit: hockey sticks go in the rear seat anyways (I play defense, so my sticks are as tall as I am).

 

Get the ID over the IDQ, i've owned both, prefer the ID. More xmax to boot but needs bigger box

 

OK IDv3 it is. Now, what resistence should I run my amp at? I understand that a little headroom is important, but should I really run it at 1 ohm? my 1 channel d-class amp does rms:
350x4ohms
600x2ohms
850x1ohm

Any way I run it there should be sufficient power for an ID12v3.

 

850 is a lot of power for an ID12. Maybe consider two DVC 4's for the one ohm load. Otherwise, watch them gains.

Or maybe get an IDMAX, throw all 850 at it, and call it a day

 

roller my friend. and yes, many a dead hookers...

 

Id Max Id Max!!!!

 

I would do an ID Max, but I'm just going to be running stock HU and stock speakers and it seems a little overkill. Stock is ok for how much time I spend in the car (maybe in a few months I'll pick up a new Eclipse).

I don't want to drop $1000 on a new stereo, as I am trying to save some cash so I can buy a motorcycle in a few months-SPRING.

 

With an otherwise stock stereo, you don't want to actually send anything near 800 watts to a sub.

 

which one a batter
Image Dynamics IDMAX12D2 V.3
or
JL Audio 12W6v2
or
Treo Street Series (SS)

and i wanna get a Zapco 500/1 amp to power up the sub

 

I'd get the IDMAX.

 

isnt the Image Dynamics IDMAX12D2 V.3 going to be under powered with the Zapco 500/1??

couse the Zapco 500/1 is:
500W x 1 at 2 ohm RMS
800W x 1 at 2 ohm Peak
and the IDMAX12D2 V.3 is :
1000W RMS
1800W Peak
@ dual 2 ohms

 

I had two IDQ 12's back when there was only single voice coils and I loved them. I was running 400 watts to them off a PPI PC2400 (Back when PPI was good. DEI turned them into crap.) I would like to get the IDMAX but $$$$. I'll be getting the IDQ 12's again after I find a great amp to go with them.

 

The max will do fine with 500 watts.