I installed alarm but now I want to install remote starter also. Are these the only wires I need to connect on my 5sp?

5th Gen 2001
---------------------
12volts: green (+) Location: ignition harness

Starter: black/red or (+) Location: ignition harness
black/wht

Second Starter: black/blue (+) Location: ignition harness

Ignition: black/red (+) Location: ignition harness

Accessory: red/yellow (+) Location: ignition harness

Second Accessory: white/blue (+) Location: ignition harness

Power Lock: gray (-) Location: pin 23 at SECU

Power Unlock: brown/yel (-) Location: pin 35 at SECU

Lock Motor: purple Location: pin 15 at SECU

Unlock Motor: white/black Location: pin 13 at SECU

Parking Lights: red/blue (+) Location: driver kick panel

Parking Lights: lt. blue (-) Location: headlight switch

Trunk/Hatch Pin: purple/yellow (-) Location: pin 38 at SECU

Hood Pin: yellow/red (-) Location: pin 27 at SECU

Trunk Release: blue Location: pin 12 at SECU

Factory Alarm Arm: orange/black (-) Location: pin 41 at SECU

Factory Alarm Disarm:orange/blue (-) Location: pin 30 at SECU

Tachometer: white/green Location: instrument cluster

Brake Wire: red/green (+) Location: brake switch or drivers kick

Horn Trigger: green/white (-) Location: steering column[/QUOTE]

 

You wont need to pay attention to Lock Motor or Unlock Motor. You will use either positive or negative trigger parking lights, so one of those won't be used. And you only need to hook up Horn trigger if you want that to go off, but generally if you have an aftermarket siren, not needed.

Im confused. You say you are installing a remote starter on a 791xv? What is already installed? Because the 791xv includes remote start.

You will also need to tap into the Neutral Safety Switch wire at the ECU. See my post on the 2nd page of the Alarm Wiring Sticky for the pic/info on that.

 

what I ment was that I didn't wire my remote starter before but I want to do so now.

I was told that neutral safety switch is pin 42 green/white?

 

Pin 44, not 42. And yes, green/white. What part of the remote start did you not wire? Because if you cut and wired the starter wire for the starter kill, then the only main difference when adding the remote start part of it is the tach wire and neutral safety.

 

I know I didn't wire the neutral safety switch for sure. I think I wired the tach wire previously. What's the tach wire for?

 

alarm will cut the car off if it goes over a set limit. IE if someone tries to drive off and it goes over say 2000rpm it will cut the car off.

 

is it pre-set at 2000 rpm from factory or do I get to set it?

 

I followed the neutral safety switch from the brain and it ended at a on/off switch alsong w/ another wire. I'm assuming that's the toggle switch for remote start.

Do I need to reprogram my remote for the remote start to take into effect because remote start is not working yet.

is neutral safety switch to bypass the need to press on the clutch when starting the car?

 

There is no set number of RPM's at which the brain will cut off. Once the tach wire is hooked up, you use the valet button to let the brain learn the voltage of your tach wire at idle, so it knows when the car is revving too much/too little, and also so it doesnt keep cranking once the engine is started.

Yes, that is the toggle switch for remote start.

You don't need to reprogram the remote for remote start, but there are a few things to check, both with the car and the alarm brain. As far as the alarm brain, the brake wire, hood pin, and neutral safety wire all have to be hooked up correctly in order for the brain to let you remote start. As far as the car is concerned, the car from the factory won't let you start it without the clutch being depressed, of course. Look high up under the dash on the clutch pedal. There are two pins, the first one releases as soon as the clutch is pushed at all, the other one depresses when the clutch is all the way down. The first is for cruise control, the other one is your factory clutch wiring, which tells the car whether you are pushing the clutch as you start the car. There are two wires at this clutch pin. The black is ground, and the other gets a ground when the clutch is depressed all the way. You can do one of two things. You can just connect the two wires to each other, so the car will start both manually and remotely without pushing the clutch. Or you can also take the status output from the satellite brain and connect it to the appropriate wire, so that when you hit remote start, the wire gets a ground signal, but when you manually start the car, you still need to push the clutch.

Once you do all those, Im betting the car will start right up.

-Kevin

 

I connected status output to each wires of the clutch and no luck. When I connected the clutch wires together, I was able to start the car w/out pressing on the clutch but no luck on remote start.

I noticed that the status output wire from satellite brain led to another brain so I just used a t-tap to connect to the clutch wire.

Manual said that remote start is activated by holding down both lock and unlock button and/or press the * button twice quickly. Tried both but no luck.

What could I be missing?

 

Assuming everything else is wired correctly, like the ignition harness etc....then either your brake wire, hood pin, or NSS wire isn't connected properly if you get absolutely nothing when you push to remote start. If it was the clutch wiring that was the problem, the remote start would turn your accessories on for a second, and shut them off when it went to crank.

 

I get nothing when I try to start; no light, no crank. Do I need to align the 555U ring around the key cylinder or the transponder?

 

Worry about the 555U/556U ring later. If it was that was messed up, the car would crank but not start.

Like I said, check brake, hood pin, and neutral safety wires, make sure theyre all connected properly. Those are the only ones that completely prevent the alarm brain from remote starting.

 

do you have any guide on how to install the brake wire? I just want to double check I did it right.

 

There are two wires at the brake pin itself, which is just above the brake pedal. It is very similar to the clutch pin I described above, but it is a positive trigger instead of negative, meaning that the wire you need to tap into will shoot up to 12v when you push the brake, instead of getting a ground signal the way the clutch pin would.

 

so I need to figure out which wire is the 12v wire and connect it?

 

Figure out which wire rests at zero but gets 12 volts when you push the brake. Connect the brake wire from the alarm brain to this wire. Should be red with a green stripe.

 

I saw two plugs by the brake pedal each w/ 2 wires. One black and one brown. Black one had red|green and red|yellow. Brown one had orange and green. There isn't much room up there for my two hands. Is it the red|green wire that I need to connect to the alarm?

 

It should be that one. It can also be found in the driver kick panel with the group of wires running to the rear of the car, which is an easier spot to tap into the wire if you have big hands. Just use a multimeter (or test light if you have to) to test the wire.

 

tell me if this is a way to test if brake wire and hood wire is connected correctly.

I sat in the car and armed my alarm. When I press on the brake pedal, alarm goes off.

I leave the hood open and when I arm my alarm, remote beeps showing that hood is open.

I tapped into black|white (NSI) wire which runs between brain and satellite and connected to the ECU. Is this ok?

When I go into setting mode (holding down all 4 buttons) I know what unlock, lock, and * button do but what's the Aux button? When I press it, remote beeps once and hood blinks. Press it again and remote beeps twice and trunk blinks. Press it again and remote beeps three times and both hood and trunk blinks.

 

Sounds okay, except you tapped into what to the ECU? You shouldnt need to tap into anything between the satellite and main relay in the ribbon cable. The black/white wire on the main brain is the brain's neutral safety wire which is the wire that goes to the ECU.

 

the black|white (neutral safety) wire runs from the brain to the toggle switch. I used a t-tap on that black|white wire and ran it to the ECU. I'm I doing it right?

 

Then what did you tap into between the satellite brain and main brain? There shouldnt ever be a need to tap into that ribbon cable.

Easy ways to test for various things...Ground the neutral safety wire, sit in the car and push the clutch while you start it to see if your clutch pin wiring is good/bad, hold the key next to the cylinder while you remote start to see if your 555u/556u is good/bad (down the road).

Thats all Ive got for you man. Sounds to me like a professional install would have been in your best interests.

 

I typed it wrong. I ment from main brain to toggle switch and not the satellite.

testing the neutral safety wire, I connected the two clutch wires together so I won't have to press the clutch when starting the car. Can I still test if my clutch pin wiring is good/bad by the method you described?

If it was my 555u unit having problem, would my car even turn? Remember I don't have the ring installed on my key cylinder.

For remote start, which is it? press * twice or hold down both lock and unlock button together?

Thanks for all your inputs btw.

 

Being that you connected the two clutch wires, that is eliminated as a source of the problem completely.

Worry about the 555u later (hence why i put "down the road" in parenthesis, because it was just a guess that by all the problems youve already had that you might have trouble with that too) but that was just a method of testing for later. The car would still crank whether or not the 555u was installed or not.

Remote start is either * twice or lock/unlock together. Use * twice though, because then you can hit * twice again to disengage the remote start.

Grounding the NSS wire from the alarm brain, and disconnecting the hood pin wire from the car completely, will completely eliminate those two wires as sources of the problem as well.

 

So I should try to start my car w/ the NSS wire grounded and hood pin wire disconnected? What kind of symptom am I looking for?

 

Yes, considering doing so will effectively bypass those features to eliminate those as sources of the problem.

Find a local orger from your regional forum who knows what theyre doing.

 

Yea I guess I'll have to take my car in and have the installers figure out what's wrong. Thanks for all your input.

 

I got the remote start to work. Car cranks but as soon as the car starts, it dies. Any setting I should be changing?

 

on myne is cut off cuz it wasent putting out over 14 volts





also i got a ?, netural saftey switch on a 5spd?? did you make this???? no way my 2ed gen has it????

 

Is your tach wire connected and set properly? Assuming the 555u/556u is working fine, which it sounds like it is since the car does start, it sounds like a tach problem to me. Try changing it to voltage sensing in the menu using the valet button, and try to remote start it then. If it starts normally, your tach wire is the problem, but voltage sense isnt as good as tach, so it'd be in your best interest to find a good tach wire connection if that ends up being the problem.

 

I checked it twice but I can check it again tomorrow.

I tried to learn tach signal but I was unable to do so. Direction tells me to start car, hold valet within 5 sec, led light will stay on and then I release valet. Mine doesn't light up.

Only time I can get the remote start to work is to turn the key to ON position and then remote start it. Even when the car is on, starter engages few more times as if the car doesn't know that it's on.

 

Like I said, try voltage sense and see if it starts normally.

 

Nope. I'm going to double check all the wires again.

Is black/red (thinner) the only ignition wire? Pink and pink/white from satelite brain are both ignition. Connect only the pink or connect both pinks onto the black/red?