Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Basically I want to take my sub/amp that I used to have in my car, and make it work with my computer. Is this doable?

The two big things I would need to do is convert 12V to be used with 110V. Then I will have to find a signal I can use with my PC speakers.

I currently have Logitech Z3's. Basically I want to replace the puny sub, with my car sub/amp.


Is this doable? Has anyone done this?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

It's doable.

Get an AC->DC inverter. That will take care of your power and ground, and your remote turn on.

Get a mini->RCA wire from radio shack for your signal.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

hmmm... Thanks for the advice! I will give this a shot.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Good luck. Dont blow up your house.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

I'm living in a dorm. So it should be okay

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

BTW, where can I find an DC->AC converter? All they have on eBay are AC->DC converters.

KyMan

iTrader: (2)

You can also look at partexpress for a home plate amp. They run off 110v and aren't too expensive (200 watts for about $130 IIRC).

D Love

You want an AC-DC converter. That way, you plug one end into your wall outlet, and it converts the 110VAC to 12VDC for use with your amp.

MacGyverS2000

Wally Mart, AutoZone, etc. should have AC-DC converters in stock. Unless you're just desparate for sound, this is a really odd way to go. It's not exactly efficient, going from 120VAC down to 12VDC, only to have the amp kick it back up again. Don't forget you won't be able to efficiently run home speakers with the car amp, either. You can place them in parallel, but still...

But hey, if it floats your boat...

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

There are a lot of DC-> AC converters on ebay.

You want an AC->DC, which you can also find on ebay, but partsexpress would probably be a better choice

Which amp are you running? Find out its power intake and figure out which converter you need.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

I just figured I had an amp/sub lying around, but hm, Maybe I should just go with a Klipsh Promedia 5.1....

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I've got the Klipsch 4.1.


LOVE IT.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Ive got the Alumapro BP-10

clive

The problem with running 12V amps in the home, is the large current draw. Even if the amp is class D and therefore very efficient, if you want say 100W RMS you're looking at a power supply of 12V at about 12 amps. Basically a large battery charger and a good sized capacitor! There are plenty of home 110V units on EBay that will look and be a lot more practical.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

What exactly do you mean by this? He is not planning on using a battery or capacitor at all.

clive

I didn't say he would have to use a battery. A battery charger = a power supply. A capacitor because otherwise such an item puts out unsmoothed DC. Otherwise he's going to have to buy a 12V 12A stabilised supply and how much is that going to cost? More than buying a good quality hifi amp on EBay...

DMCfirestar500

Well you can always mod a computer powersupply. We do this for R/C car chargers that require a 12v. powersupply. You can get a decent computer 500w+ powersupply onsale cheap or online for under $20 and mod it with 2 1ohm sand bar resistors wired serial on the 5v line (put a load on the 5v line to boost the voltage on the 12v to constantly above 12v even with a strong load) to push near 20amps constant. Realistically this would be able to power a mono-block D-class amp to say maybe 300wrms effectivelly all day. This will give you a powersupply similar to those industrial ones but at much less the price and giving out almost the same clean power all the time. But then again your diong alot of work changing 110vAC to 12-14vDC then back to AC.
Also I have never tried this myself with car audio, but it does seem like it would work the same as I have broken in motors pulling well over 20amps constant like this with no problems. And since you already have the car sub and amp this may work for you.

Just by $.02
Pat