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Where do I connect the Activation Input on the 561t?

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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:40 AM
  #1  
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Where do I connect the Activation Input on the 561t?

There's a White/Blue (-) remote start activation input.

This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate.

Note: When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1, 2, or 3 pulses.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There's also a White/Red (+) activation input.

Description reads the same as above.

My question is, do I need to connect this wire? If so, where do I connect it to. I know that this is where you press the lock button on the oem keyfob a set amount of times to activate the remote start, but not sure what to do with it.

Any help is appreciated from those that have installed this 561t on a 5.5 gen.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Simpliest is to connect to the lock wire on your car. To activate press lock twice ( or whatever amount you choose, although I dont recommend one).
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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Youll be using the White/Blue (-) for this.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Youll be using the White/Blue (-) for this.
Thank you Don! Is there any other wire that I can use without going to the door? I would like to locate one somewhere around the steering column.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 12:18 PM
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Not that Im aware of. You could use the trunk, but then obviously it would open everytime you remote start.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Not that Im aware of. You could use the trunk, but then obviously it would open everytime you remote start.
That'd suck everytime...

Thanks again for your help!
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 12:29 PM
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No problem sir.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 02:04 PM
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One more question, to see if I have a way around this thing. This is the last wire for my install to be complete.

In our wiring diagram, there is a Lock Motor: "gray" located at pin 54 at the ECU. Would this work instead of connecting it to the actual Power Lock: "orange/black" located in the driver door?
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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Actually, yes it should work.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Actually, yes it should work.
I'm going to probably have to change it then. Running it under the weather stripping and grommets are probably kinking the wire. I've installed the system, but I have to troubleshoot it, since I get nothing when trying to remote start it. I'll also try the pin at the ecu.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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You did wire in the switch correct? And its turned to the ON position?
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
You did wire in the switch correct? And its turned to the ON position?
So that switch is required to be wired inline with the neutral safety switch wire? I figured I would bypass it, and wire the NSS directly from the module to the pin at the ecu. I didn't think that with the absence of the on/off switch, that would pose a problem. Since the other line of the switch is grounded for it to work, I wans't sure if this might be my issue?

As well, I have the second 30A 12V Input Red Heavy Gauge wire for the remote start not connected to anything. Since there is not another 12volt input in our diagram. Just a second starter and accessory wire. Can I piggy back this wire on the 1st red one that I used for the 12volt signal?

It just doesn't seem like the module is activating, but when I go into Tach learning mode or programming mode the led on the module lights up, but doesn't trigger the remote start. These two hookups described above are my main culprits I believe along with the Activation Wire.

I ran out of daylight yesterday, so I have to tackle this again this week sometime.
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 05:35 AM
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The toggle switch isnt required for operation, although I strongly recommend using it. DEI also makes it a standard to install it, although alot of dealers are too lazy to do so. Its a safety feature. You get an oil change or service,etc.. and someone accidently remote starts your car during, your going to have problems.

The high current 12V lead HAS to be connected. Without it, no the car will not start. Yes it can be piggy backed with the other one.
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
The toggle switch isnt required for operation, although I strongly recommend using it. DEI also makes it a standard to install it, although alot of dealers are too lazy to do so. Its a safety feature. You get an oil change or service,etc.. and someone accidently remote starts your car during, your going to have problems.

The high current 12V lead HAS to be connected. Without it, no the car will not start. Yes it can be piggy backed with the other one.
I'll install it for the precaution since you're right about taking it in for service. I just figure not many people drive my car, so there wasn't a need for me to install it. But then again when I would need it, I wouldn't have it. So it will go in this week also.

Great, just wanted to verify. It's been a couple years since I hookup one, and wanted to make sure. If this is the case, then that's my issue it seems like.
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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4-pin satellite harness.......Is this needed?

1 - blue - status output, which I already have from the remote start harness, blue/white
2 - orange - accessory trigger
3 - purple - starter trigger
4 - pink - ignition trigger

here's the situation still. i can't seem to get it to do anything. i've gone through and rechecked everything with a voltage meter, and all else is fine. i did not connect this satellite harness. do i really need it? where do i connect these wires to? might this be my problem?

thank you in advance.
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Nope, dont need it since you already have the status out from the alarm.

Might wanna call me and trouble shoot that way.
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Pearl96Max
Nope, dont need it since you already have the status out from the alarm.

Might wanna call me and trouble shoot that way.
I'm an Idiot!!

Ok, so I'm almost there. I had the hood pin shutdown hooked up wrong. It went straight to the ecu, I got it mixed up with the secu. My brake wire was wrong also but I fixed that quickly. Didn't see the other set of wires behind the actual plug. Don't ask....

I did however find out that the Lock Motor: gray at the SECU works as well for the activation. The pin numbers are wrong from the schematics here as opposed to using the FSM to find the right pins. The locations are correct, but the numbers don't match up to the FSM.

As of right now, the rs cycles, but doesn't even attempt to crank the car. It cycles 3 times before it stops. I did a shutdown diagnostics check of what might be wrong, and it tells me: Low or no RPM. I had this thing in tach learning mode about 20 billion times. Still nothing. Below is how I have the heavy gauge wires hooked up. Maybe I can get an insight on something that might not be right.

5th Gen Wiring--------------------hooked to--------------------561t

12volts -> blue (+)------------------------------------------Both 12v inputs -> red (+)
Starter -> black/red (+)-------------------------------------Output to starter -> purple (+)
Second Starter -> black/white (+)---------------------------Not hooked up....
Ignition -> black/yellow (+)----------------------------------Output to ignition -> pink (+)
Accessory -> red (+)----------------------------------------Accessory circuit -> orange (+)
Second Accessory -> white/blue (+)-------------------------Programmable output for accessory or ignition -> pink/white (+)

This last one is a little confusing to me. I know how to switch the program, but is this hooked up right, or should it go to the "Second Starter" or something else? There are 2 Starter wires, and 2 Accessory wires on the car, but no second Ignition wire. The rs diagram for the 561t is what makes it akward.

Please provide me with any ideas if this is sufficient information to go off of. If not, I can offer anymore info. I'm just glad I'm finally getting somewhere now!
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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btw.......I also found that the red Accessory wire did not have a voltage reading when I turned the key to test it. This is hooked up to the orange accessory output from the 561t. However, the Second Accessory wire did blimp the voltage meter. Would this need to be wired any different than my above post? This question might already be answered with the next post, but I figured that this piece would help. I was actually going to piggyback this one on the pink/white wire also, but I'm not sure where I stand there either.
Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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Its not cranking because your second starter isnt hooked up. Take a little piece of extra 12-14 gauge for a jumper that youll use to connect the starter wires to each other, essentially enabling the purple output from the 561 to power both starter wires.
Old Mar 14, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by kpr10is
Its not cranking because your second starter isnt hooked up. Take a little piece of extra 12-14 gauge for a jumper that youll use to connect the starter wires to each other, essentially enabling the purple output from the 561 to power both starter wires.
I was just thinking that. So this is doable, and will not interfere with the factory starter in anyway. I didn't know if I could connect the 2 wires in fear of shorting something out.
Old Mar 14, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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Yes I know you all are tired of seeing this thread booted to the top, so you'll be happy to know that it finally works.

I'm going to have to play around with it some more because sometimes it will start and stay on. Most other times it will start and shutoff immediately. I'm thinking it was my bypass coil that goes around the key cylinder but I even started it with the key in the ignition and it still shuts off. So at anyrate, i'm not sure what gives, but I'm going to find out.

I don't know why, and it doesn't seem any different than any other installs i've done, but this one gave me the hardest time. Thanks for all your help Don and kpr!
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