stock alternator???
#1
stock alternator???
what's the output on a stock 5th generation alternator???
more than 140 amp output??? that's what I am hoping for.... anyone know?
Just wondering before I plan on putting my stereo gear in if I should look into a HO alt or not.
more than 140 amp output??? that's what I am hoping for.... anyone know?
Just wondering before I plan on putting my stereo gear in if I should look into a HO alt or not.
#3
I would recommend you installing your equipment first and see how your alternator likes it you may not even need all of the power for your new equipment. Buy a multimeter watch for voltage drops. If you're unsatisfied with any resulting dimming you can first do a big 3 upgrade if that still doesn't satisfy you than you can look into getting a bigger alt. Remember if its 140 amp alt its only going give you that at or close max engine speed. So at idle you may only be getting 30 - 50 amps and you have to share with all the other stuff in your car ecu, windows, lights, a/c, etc.
#4
word... I know, I am not worrying too much. I am looking at running an Orion 1200d amp for subs and then 200+ watts going into my speakers. On my current car (a Ford Contour) it has been fine, even with the car turned off... But just want to know because I have seen cars struggle to handle that much power (and that's not even way too much)
#5
hmmmm well my 4th gen has a factory 125amp alt. so the 5th gen should have that or better.. your contour probaly has somewhere in the 100-110amp range so u should be okay.... but like they said u might wanna upgrade your wiring as i have some minor dimming with only a 400 watt rms system.
#7
Originally Posted by caridez
Where did you get those specs? Most pass vehicles have a 40-65amp alt. Heavy duty trucks carry a 105amp or more.
If you're going to draw alot of amps with your amps I would consider a second battery for audio reserve.
If you're going to draw alot of amps with your amps I would consider a second battery for audio reserve.
#9
Look Dude,
I've been building SPL cars for the last 10 years, been in Car audio industry for 18 years, even on the manufacturer side with engineers. Built CES and SEMA Show Cars.
I'm not talking sh*t, my point is you do not drive your car on the freeway 100% of the time. At Idle you only getting 40-65 amp, upgraded alternators like stingers give you 140-200 at lower RPM's. At SPL competition the vehicle cannot idle over 2500 RPM during it's run, so these high output alternators have to comply. DB Drag is a big industry for HO Alternator manufaturers.
Anyway check out this article it pretty good:
http://www.forparts.com/ICpumpingjui...utalt11.03.htm
Thanks, WhiteMaxima9600 you have an idea of how it works.
I've been building SPL cars for the last 10 years, been in Car audio industry for 18 years, even on the manufacturer side with engineers. Built CES and SEMA Show Cars.
I'm not talking sh*t, my point is you do not drive your car on the freeway 100% of the time. At Idle you only getting 40-65 amp, upgraded alternators like stingers give you 140-200 at lower RPM's. At SPL competition the vehicle cannot idle over 2500 RPM during it's run, so these high output alternators have to comply. DB Drag is a big industry for HO Alternator manufaturers.
Anyway check out this article it pretty good:
http://www.forparts.com/ICpumpingjui...utalt11.03.htm
Thanks, WhiteMaxima9600 you have an idea of how it works.
#10
Originally Posted by caridez
Look Dude,
I've been building SPL cars for the last 10 years, been in Car audio industry for 18 years, even on the manufacturer side with engineers. Built CES and SEMA Show Cars.
I'm not talking sh*t, my point is you do not drive your car on the freeway 100% of the time. At Idle you only getting 40-65 amp, upgraded alternators like stingers give you 140-200 at lower RPM's. At SPL competition the vehicle cannot idle over 2500 RPM during it's run, so these high output alternators have to comply. DB Drag is a big industry for HO Alternator manufaturers.
Anyway check out this article it pretty good:
http://www.forparts.com/ICpumpingjui...utalt11.03.htm
Thanks, WhiteMaxima9600 you have an idea of how it works.
I've been building SPL cars for the last 10 years, been in Car audio industry for 18 years, even on the manufacturer side with engineers. Built CES and SEMA Show Cars.
I'm not talking sh*t, my point is you do not drive your car on the freeway 100% of the time. At Idle you only getting 40-65 amp, upgraded alternators like stingers give you 140-200 at lower RPM's. At SPL competition the vehicle cannot idle over 2500 RPM during it's run, so these high output alternators have to comply. DB Drag is a big industry for HO Alternator manufaturers.
Anyway check out this article it pretty good:
http://www.forparts.com/ICpumpingjui...utalt11.03.htm
Thanks, WhiteMaxima9600 you have an idea of how it works.
#11
actually at idle my factory alt i was getting almost a full 89 amps. out of a 125amp alternator at idle. and my high output reaches its full 200amps at 900 rpm. is there any other brian busters you have for me oh mighty one? have u actually tested the maxima alternator?
#12
I just threw some averages out there based on my experience doing vehicle test to adapt prototype car electronics to different vehicles. Current draws, voltage drops, load test in 100's of vehicles a year. Anyway just trying to help. Why don't you Grow Up.
#15
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
actually at idle my factory alt i was getting almost a full 89 amps. out of a 125amp alternator at idle. and my high output reaches its full 200amps at 900 rpm. is there any other brian busters you have for me oh mighty one? have u actually tested the maxima alternator?
#16
Originally Posted by CreativeDesignz
actually at idle my factory alt i was getting almost a full 89 amps. out of a 125amp alternator at idle. and my high output reaches its full 200amps at 900 rpm. is there any other brian busters you have for me oh mighty one? have u actually tested the maxima alternator?
Is this ho alt from can-am or excessive audio or somewhere else? How much did you pay for it?
If this is really the case than all I need is 125 amp alt. These are the stats from nissan for their hitachi 110 amp alt
1300 rpm: 36 amps
2500: 85
5000: 110
my old car had its replacement alt bench tested it was rated at 80 amps and I had no dimming issues at my normal stereo useage unlike my max...
1000: 56
2000: 63
3000: 77
4000: 91
sorry for all the questions
#17
200 amps probably since it is a 200 amp alt.
I am pushing two Solobaric S12L5's at around 1200watts RMS and my speakers at 400watts rms and at idle (750rpms) my voltage will drop down to about 13volts with the headlights and heater on but once I get up to 1500- 2000 rpms I am at full charge which is only about 70-80 amps.
My third gen was the same way I would get much dimming at idle but once I got up to about 1500rpms I was good to blast my music.
I am pushing two Solobaric S12L5's at around 1200watts RMS and my speakers at 400watts rms and at idle (750rpms) my voltage will drop down to about 13volts with the headlights and heater on but once I get up to 1500- 2000 rpms I am at full charge which is only about 70-80 amps.
My third gen was the same way I would get much dimming at idle but once I got up to about 1500rpms I was good to blast my music.
#18
i dont remeber the exact curve for the stock alternator i only tested at idle then at about 1700 rpm. the alternator is a can-am alternator. i definetly wouldnt recommend it at all. I had MAJOR issues with this thing. open rotor 7 times. i had to ship the thing back and fourth from jersey to florida SEVEN times. finally they epoxied the connections on the alternator so they wouldnt come apart any more. the can am puts out less amperage at idle than stock, which sucks. but once u hit 900 rpm (alternator speed) the alternator is at full capacity.
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