maximal
I understand relays just fine.

i asked the battery will power the fan like you stated through 87. but I was asking what should I use for 86. you answered my question by agreeing with me to yes use the remote for 86.

In the diagram of the link I posted, 86 travels to the amp, but the orange wire becomes blue and is not labeled.

I already confirmed that with my Bose setup the remote cannot power the fan itself. (though in my last car it worked fine).

 

hooked up my relay.
Did not work same as w/o the relay.


What power source should I use for the fan??

 

Okay, I think I understand what you are saying about the realay. I'll have to give it a try. Can I go to radioshack and get a relay?
Nismo, I think he wants you to run a wire from the + of the battery to the relay, but you have to run that through a fuse first. I am guessing that wiring the remote to the relay at 86 serves as a "switch" to turn on the fan. Am I getting my ducks in a row?

 

yes but the remote to 86 will not power it and the amp shuts off. the main power source is from the battery. but like said my remote will not even work at all for 86. (w/ or w/o amp connected)

seems i need to run a remote from up front just for the fan.

 

ok tomorrow i shall try this:
86 is connected to the remote wire that used to go to the amp
85 is a ground
87 is connected to the battery
30 is connected to the + of the fan AND to the amp to supply the "remote signal"

unless someone sees this a problem since the amp will receive a powered signal??

what could Bose have possibly used for a remote to turn on the factory amp but cannot power a simple fan?

 

yes, that's right.

when i said nothing is connected to the amp, i meant in that diagram from bcae1.

30 is connected to the 12v+ of the fan and anything else you want to power up when the head unit is on (like the remote terminals of all of your amps).

 

This is the way I see it, the remote wire is basically for telling a component to turn on. I do not think that it's a good idea to use it as a power source, even if the current draw is not that much.

 

amp will not accept the remote when using a relay. going to buy another relay tomorrow.

i don't even want the f'in fan anymore, just want to figure it out. was about to test the relay with a voltmeter and my fuse panel, but need extra hands.

seems stupid to run a remote wire all the way back just for a damn fan. wish i knew how Bose setup their remote to the factory amp that will not provide power to a simple fan, or activate a relay.....

 

where did you buy a relay?

 

Can you run another wire off the remote wire after it has made contact with the amp, and then run that to the relay?

 

Are you talking about at the amp terminal? That is how I did my remote wire for my two subs. I was too lazy to splice into the wire, so I took it from one terminal to the next.

 

Yeah thats what I mean. That would mean that the amp would still get the correct signal...right?

 

I suppose, my second amp works just fine.

 

Ever get it to work right?

 

i bought a 2nd relay but didn't get a chance. maybe Monday.

 

small update

using a test meter, my bose remote wire does emit a noticeable amount less current than the battery. Not sure which setting to use, but the battery was around 22? and the remote 18? something like that.

Still not sure why it can't tell a relay to transmit power from the battery to the fan or even the amp. But works fine alone for the amp.

Any suggestions as to another ACC dependent power source in the trunk? I did my best that the only wire running out of the trunk is the battery power. Everything else I kept back there and hope to keep it that way.

 

Tap into your power wire of the amp to run the fan and then use the remote wire to turn them both on.

 

He has tried to use the remote wire to turn the fans on using a relay. It didn't work.

I have yet to get a fan. Still not sure where to buy a relay, but when I do finally get everything together I'll let you know how I got it to work Nismo.

 

Where was he getting the power source?

 

ok relay will not work with bose remote. fan almost tries (slight ticking). but if I replace the 86 slot on the relay with another power source turns on instantly.

Unless there is another power source in my trunk, I'd have to wire one from the front.

Solution:

using a spade terminal, I can plug the fan into my distribution block whenever I want. Only takes 1 minute to open back seat and slide it in. So for most short trips no need, when I run errands and travel, just plug it in.


I believe this Pioneer amp just runs hot and stores heat. It's warm already when hot outside. It gets hot even if gain is at normal or lower and no boost, hardly pushing it at all.

Been a month with the Arc Foose 10" so I turned it up and like my settings with:
Boost 6 (0, 6, or 12)
Gain at 2/3 (normal is 1/3)
Headunit Bass at 0 (-5 to 5)
Volume 16 (out of 30)

 

Okay, I bought a red led computer case fan at compusa today. Now I have to find a place that sells relays, and I think I need a soldering iron, too. Or do I?

 

you don't really need a relay and definately not a soldering iron.
Just try your power remote and any ground.

Nothing comes easy for me like it should so I tried different things.

 

too late....I bought a 30A 4 prong relay, 30 amp fuse and fuseholder, and soldering iron yesterday from radioshack. I bought everything for around $20, so it is not that big of a deal. Now All I have to do is figure out which wire on the fan is positive and which is neg. One wire is black and the other is red/black.

 

Update:
I am a mastermind of the electronical world ( <-- A JOKE). After an hour of wiring everything I got the fan to turn on the first try. I'll have to make a stand for the fan, as well as organize all of the current wire chaos, but I think the fan will do the trick.

 

I truly hope that was a joke

congrats on getting it running

 

hehe, maybe....It was pretty obvious once I touched it to the battery. That...and one wire had dashes going down it that looked like the neg -, so I just asumed. Now I just gotta make everything look purrrty...gonna be sorta difficult because kenwood decided to put the heatsink along the side of the amp. Ill have to point the fan between the subs and amp in order to push in colder air. Might have been a better idea to just put the amp under my seat. There I would have been able to at least control bass boost, gain, and such. Darn kenwood for putting remote bass boost on the lower end models but not their more expensive amps. <-- Doesn't make much since, but ohh well.

 

Good luck with making it all look how you want it, but I must ask for pics after you get it all done.

 

Okay, sure thing. But this won't be much of a work of art. It is just supposed to do its job. So don't expect me to have a fiberglass enclosure built for the fan : )