View Poll Results: should i replace rear speakers?
yes to replace rear speakers



15
71.43%
no to replacing



6
28.57%
Voters: 21. You may not vote on this poll
rear fill?
Originally Posted by illlojik
K, in looking at the stats, you think that splode amp will be enough to power those or should I bridge it to just the 2 fronts?
what about these speakers from diamond audio
they handle 100 rms and 45-22k hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3966.html
they handle 100 rms and 45-22k hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3966.html
Originally Posted by nismopc
Definately not a 600W amp. You'll be pushing 55 continuos watts to those components. I'll let the others chime in on if it's got enough power for the Rainbow's. I'm thinking yes.
And those Diamonds don't look too bad. But I'll wait until I hear a couple expert reviews.
also just found some MB Quarts that look good
handle 40-140 rms and 38-32k hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6641.html
handle 40-140 rms and 38-32k hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6641.html
Originally Posted by nismos14
Very interesting.
The germs give you the option of bi-amping as well right?
The germs give you the option of bi-amping as well right?
Trav-
Max power rating means nothing..... listen to these guys.
SO, are sony amps REALLY REALLY that bad?
i mean if the rainbows get 100 watts RMS, and his sony amp gets 600 watts (supposedly) then he should be ok, right?
ive always heard bad things about sony amps, is it because their gain and equlizer settings dont really allow u to do much tweaking in the process.
i mean if the rainbows get 100 watts RMS, and his sony amp gets 600 watts (supposedly) then he should be ok, right?
ive always heard bad things about sony amps, is it because their gain and equlizer settings dont really allow u to do much tweaking in the process.
The sony, compared to something like an arc amp will have alot more distortion trying to get up to that amount of power where as the arc would put out cleaner power at the same levels and sound alot better.
Not to threadjack here, but....
I've been running with no rear fill for a while now, and I think I'm going to put my SL 165s back in. At high volumes, the front-only active setup sounds pretty good to me, but somebody mentioned that their rear fill pulls the sound away from the a-pillars a little bit, and I think that's what I want. Also, at low volumes, there is very little bass, and I know a coaxial speaker isn't designed to be a sub, but having rear coaxes in will help a little bit with bass. The other issue is that at high volumes people in the rear feel tons of bass from the trunk but only hear the tweeters from the front as the midbasses are blocked by the front passengers and seats. I've sat back there and been very disappointed with how it sounds compared to the sound up front.
Ultimately what I'd like to do is install the rears and run them off the HU, but my issue is that the CD7000 doesn't have an option to turn off the internal amp as far as I know, so I'll have to install an in-line switch between the HU and the rear speakers. Also, because I'm running the 3-way active setup, how can I control the rear speakers' sound?
1996blackmax, I was hoping you could help because you have a 7000 and said you're running rear fill. Thanks!
I've been running with no rear fill for a while now, and I think I'm going to put my SL 165s back in. At high volumes, the front-only active setup sounds pretty good to me, but somebody mentioned that their rear fill pulls the sound away from the a-pillars a little bit, and I think that's what I want. Also, at low volumes, there is very little bass, and I know a coaxial speaker isn't designed to be a sub, but having rear coaxes in will help a little bit with bass. The other issue is that at high volumes people in the rear feel tons of bass from the trunk but only hear the tweeters from the front as the midbasses are blocked by the front passengers and seats. I've sat back there and been very disappointed with how it sounds compared to the sound up front.
Ultimately what I'd like to do is install the rears and run them off the HU, but my issue is that the CD7000 doesn't have an option to turn off the internal amp as far as I know, so I'll have to install an in-line switch between the HU and the rear speakers. Also, because I'm running the 3-way active setup, how can I control the rear speakers' sound?
1996blackmax, I was hoping you could help because you have a 7000 and said you're running rear fill. Thanks!
I know Juan is able to turn his rears off without an issue. Not sure if its output defeatable or defeatable from the internal amp as well..
Have you tried working with the time alignment function at all to get that image to pull back more?
Have you tried working with the time alignment function at all to get that image to pull back more?
I've got rear fill and I'm happy with my setup.
5 channel amp:
x1 is powering sub
x4 is bridged to 2 channels powering front mids
4 channel amp:
x2 is powering front tweeters
x2 is powering rear mids
Currenlty running active off the head unit
5 channel amp:
x1 is powering sub
x4 is bridged to 2 channels powering front mids
4 channel amp:
x2 is powering front tweeters
x2 is powering rear mids
Currenlty running active off the head unit
Originally Posted by eckounltd287
the best way to run a set up active, is if you also have a seperate amp for a sub woofer, then the fronts can be dedicated to mid/high freq. only
THATS HOW I HAVE MY setup..ive got components in the fronts, some coaxials in the rear doors, and all powered through a 4 channel amp for mid/high frequencies, and a mono amp running to the subs for low's
Originally Posted by eckounltd287
the best way to run a set up active, is if you also have a seperate amp for a sub woofer, then the fronts can be dedicated to mid/high freq. only
Originally Posted by nismos14
Please explain how having a 5 channel setup or 4 channel setup would stop someone from having an active setup or running dedicated mid/high only? As long as the right processor is used there is no issue with using a single amp for all functions.
if he had a subwoofer he would be able to help out his front speakers, by tuning it to put less strain/less bass, in the speakers.
he explained how he wanted to put rears inorder to enchance the bass.
and i was stating that having a 4 channel to run active and another channel to power a subwoofer.........
Originally Posted by nismos14
They must have been sounding great bi-amped!
.
Originally Posted by TheBigDu
1996blackmax, I was hoping you could help because you have a 7000 and said you're running rear fill. Thanks!
As Parag mentioned, you do have the ability to shut down the rears speakers with the CD7000. I have mine setup with the 4SP+Sub setup. If you go into the time alignment menu you can actually adjust the volume of each speaker independently. The way Iv'e done it is to totally cut the volume on the rear speakers all the way, get out of the TA menu, go to the EQ menu, and then save that setting into one of the memory settings. I have a couple of different settings memorized. This is where the shortcut function comes in very handy with the CD7000, as I use it to quickly get to my EQ menu and just push the memory setting that I want. #1 & #2 have the TA settings for when I have passengers. #3 & #4 are for when it's just me in the car. Hopes this makes sense. Pretty tired right now
.By the way I am running all external amplification, but the same should be attainable with the internal amplifier.
Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
They actually did sound very nice
.
As Parag mentioned, you do have the ability to shut down the rears speakers with the CD7000. I have mine setup with the 4SP+Sub setup. If you go into the time alignment menu you can actually adjust the volume of each speaker independently. The way Iv'e done it is to totally cut the volume on the rear speakers all the way, get out of the TA menu, go to the EQ menu, and then save that setting into one of the memory settings. I have a couple of different settings memorized. This is where the shortcut function comes in very handy with the CD7000, as I use it to quickly get to my EQ menu and just push the memory setting that I want. #1 & #2 have the TA settings for when I have passengers. #3 & #4 are for when it's just me in the car. Hopes this makes sense. Pretty tired right now
.
By the way I am running all external amplification, but the same should be attainable with the internal amplifier.
.As Parag mentioned, you do have the ability to shut down the rears speakers with the CD7000. I have mine setup with the 4SP+Sub setup. If you go into the time alignment menu you can actually adjust the volume of each speaker independently. The way Iv'e done it is to totally cut the volume on the rear speakers all the way, get out of the TA menu, go to the EQ menu, and then save that setting into one of the memory settings. I have a couple of different settings memorized. This is where the shortcut function comes in very handy with the CD7000, as I use it to quickly get to my EQ menu and just push the memory setting that I want. #1 & #2 have the TA settings for when I have passengers. #3 & #4 are for when it's just me in the car. Hopes this makes sense. Pretty tired right now
.By the way I am running all external amplification, but the same should be attainable with the internal amplifier.
But if I'm running the HU in 3-way mode, the midbasses become the rears on the TA setup. If I switch to the 4-sp+sub setup, the front tweets and mids will effectively be the same channel and I will loose the ability to seperately equalize and TA each.
I have gotten some good info from this thread, especially for you guys running without rears on sometime. I just purchased some DA 661X for coaxials in the rear (got RF 3206s in there now) and was considering putting those in today when I came across this thread. With my HU, I am able to set how each speaker is played separately and set time alignment respectively. My fronts are DA 661 running off of a PPI 600/4 along with the Fosgates. I will say that the DA's of course sound so much sweeter than the MB Quarts I had in there and overshadow the hell out of the RFs. Great thread info guys. I may just sell the DA's ang change the setup around and see how I like running without the rears on for a while.
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