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View Poll Results: should i replace rear speakers?
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rear fill?

Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:13 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Components = Rainbow slc265 ~$230
K, in looking at the stats, you think that splode amp will be enough to power those or should I bridge it to just the 2 fronts?
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:21 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by illlojik
K, in looking at the stats, you think that splode amp will be enough to power those or should I bridge it to just the 2 fronts?
Definately not a 600W amp. You'll be pushing 55 continuos watts to those components. I'll let the others chime in on if it's got enough power for the Rainbow's. I'm thinking yes.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:28 PM
  #43  
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what about these speakers from diamond audio
they handle 100 rms and 45-22k hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3966.html
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by nismopc
Definately not a 600W amp. You'll be pushing 55 continuos watts to those components. I'll let the others chime in on if it's got enough power for the Rainbow's. I'm thinking yes.
Thanks, I'll look into it.

And those Diamonds don't look too bad. But I'll wait until I hear a couple expert reviews.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:40 PM
  #45  
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also just found some MB Quarts that look good
handle 40-140 rms and 38-32k hz
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6641.html
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:49 PM
  #46  
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fcking hell, get the rainbows guys, and bridge that xblows amp to them illojik.
Old Oct 25, 2006 | 06:58 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Very interesting.

The germs give you the option of bi-amping as well right?
Yes Sir, the germs give you the ability to bi-amp them. I actually was running them like that for a while. Had all four channels from the 4150 going to them.



Trav-
Max power rating means nothing..... listen to these guys.
Old Nov 1, 2006 | 01:22 PM
  #48  
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They must have been sounding great bi-amped!
Old Nov 1, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #49  
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SO, are sony amps REALLY REALLY that bad?

i mean if the rainbows get 100 watts RMS, and his sony amp gets 600 watts (supposedly) then he should be ok, right?

ive always heard bad things about sony amps, is it because their gain and equlizer settings dont really allow u to do much tweaking in the process.
Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:05 PM
  #50  
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it may have enough power, but why have great sounding components when the amp's power isn't clean.

YOUR SYSTEM WILL ONLY SOUND AS GOOD AS YOUR WEAKEST LINK.
Old Nov 1, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #51  
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*weakest*** I WAS UNABLE TO EDIT, SORRY
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 05:31 AM
  #52  
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The sony, compared to something like an arc amp will have alot more distortion trying to get up to that amount of power where as the arc would put out cleaner power at the same levels and sound alot better.
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:25 AM
  #53  
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Not to threadjack here, but....

I've been running with no rear fill for a while now, and I think I'm going to put my SL 165s back in. At high volumes, the front-only active setup sounds pretty good to me, but somebody mentioned that their rear fill pulls the sound away from the a-pillars a little bit, and I think that's what I want. Also, at low volumes, there is very little bass, and I know a coaxial speaker isn't designed to be a sub, but having rear coaxes in will help a little bit with bass. The other issue is that at high volumes people in the rear feel tons of bass from the trunk but only hear the tweeters from the front as the midbasses are blocked by the front passengers and seats. I've sat back there and been very disappointed with how it sounds compared to the sound up front.

Ultimately what I'd like to do is install the rears and run them off the HU, but my issue is that the CD7000 doesn't have an option to turn off the internal amp as far as I know, so I'll have to install an in-line switch between the HU and the rear speakers. Also, because I'm running the 3-way active setup, how can I control the rear speakers' sound?

1996blackmax, I was hoping you could help because you have a 7000 and said you're running rear fill. Thanks!
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:49 AM
  #54  
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I know Juan is able to turn his rears off without an issue. Not sure if its output defeatable or defeatable from the internal amp as well..

Have you tried working with the time alignment function at all to get that image to pull back more?
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 08:07 AM
  #55  
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I've got rear fill and I'm happy with my setup.
5 channel amp:
x1 is powering sub
x4 is bridged to 2 channels powering front mids

4 channel amp:
x2 is powering front tweeters
x2 is powering rear mids

Currenlty running active off the head unit
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 08:17 AM
  #56  
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the best way to run a set up active, is if you also have a seperate amp for a sub woofer, then the fronts can be dedicated to mid/high freq. only
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 08:34 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by eckounltd287
the best way to run a set up active, is if you also have a seperate amp for a sub woofer, then the fronts can be dedicated to mid/high freq. only

THATS HOW I HAVE MY setup..ive got components in the fronts, some coaxials in the rear doors, and all powered through a 4 channel amp for mid/high frequencies, and a mono amp running to the subs for low's
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by eckounltd287
the best way to run a set up active, is if you also have a seperate amp for a sub woofer, then the fronts can be dedicated to mid/high freq. only
Please explain how having a 5 channel setup or 4 channel setup would stop someone from having an active setup or running dedicated mid/high only? As long as the right processor is used there is no issue with using a single amp for all functions.
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 10:26 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by nismos14
Please explain how having a 5 channel setup or 4 channel setup would stop someone from having an active setup or running dedicated mid/high only? As long as the right processor is used there is no issue with using a single amp for all functions.
i was replying to bigdu,

if he had a subwoofer he would be able to help out his front speakers, by tuning it to put less strain/less bass, in the speakers.

he explained how he wanted to put rears inorder to enchance the bass.

and i was stating that having a 4 channel to run active and another channel to power a subwoofer.........
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 05:17 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by nismos14
They must have been sounding great bi-amped!
They actually did sound very nice .



Originally Posted by TheBigDu

1996blackmax, I was hoping you could help because you have a 7000 and said you're running rear fill. Thanks!

As Parag mentioned, you do have the ability to shut down the rears speakers with the CD7000. I have mine setup with the 4SP+Sub setup. If you go into the time alignment menu you can actually adjust the volume of each speaker independently. The way Iv'e done it is to totally cut the volume on the rear speakers all the way, get out of the TA menu, go to the EQ menu, and then save that setting into one of the memory settings. I have a couple of different settings memorized. This is where the shortcut function comes in very handy with the CD7000, as I use it to quickly get to my EQ menu and just push the memory setting that I want. #1 & #2 have the TA settings for when I have passengers. #3 & #4 are for when it's just me in the car. Hopes this makes sense. Pretty tired right now .

By the way I am running all external amplification, but the same should be attainable with the internal amplifier.
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 07:05 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
They actually did sound very nice .






As Parag mentioned, you do have the ability to shut down the rears speakers with the CD7000. I have mine setup with the 4SP+Sub setup. If you go into the time alignment menu you can actually adjust the volume of each speaker independently. The way Iv'e done it is to totally cut the volume on the rear speakers all the way, get out of the TA menu, go to the EQ menu, and then save that setting into one of the memory settings. I have a couple of different settings memorized. This is where the shortcut function comes in very handy with the CD7000, as I use it to quickly get to my EQ menu and just push the memory setting that I want. #1 & #2 have the TA settings for when I have passengers. #3 & #4 are for when it's just me in the car. Hopes this makes sense. Pretty tired right now .

By the way I am running all external amplification, but the same should be attainable with the internal amplifier.
Thanks, I know what you mean now....

But if I'm running the HU in 3-way mode, the midbasses become the rears on the TA setup. If I switch to the 4-sp+sub setup, the front tweets and mids will effectively be the same channel and I will loose the ability to seperately equalize and TA each.
Old Nov 2, 2006 | 09:54 PM
  #62  
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Kind of hard to do, especially if you have everything already in place with their own TA settings...
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #63  
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I have gotten some good info from this thread, especially for you guys running without rears on sometime. I just purchased some DA 661X for coaxials in the rear (got RF 3206s in there now) and was considering putting those in today when I came across this thread. With my HU, I am able to set how each speaker is played separately and set time alignment respectively. My fronts are DA 661 running off of a PPI 600/4 along with the Fosgates. I will say that the DA's of course sound so much sweeter than the MB Quarts I had in there and overshadow the hell out of the RFs. Great thread info guys. I may just sell the DA's ang change the setup around and see how I like running without the rears on for a while.
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