NYC32798

iTrader: (3)

This is a write up on how to replace your factory bose system with an aftermarket head unit and aftermarket speakers without re-wiring the whole system. I am in no way responsible if you screw this up so if you do not have any electrical experience it may be best to bring your car to a mobile audio shop.

Things you will need:

1. Obviously a head unit
2. Harness adapter and antenna adapter from best buy or crutchfield or wherever you can find one to adapt aftermarket head unit to stock wiring
3. 4 6/12" speakers
4. Medium phillips head screw driver to remove panels and speakers.
5. Wire cutters
6. Wire strippers
7. Solder with soldering iron (optional)
8. Butt connectors (optional)
9. Crimpers if you decide to use butt connectors
10. Female connectors for the aftermarket speakers
11. Wire (I used home audio speaker wire since it's thicker and cheaper)

If I left out anything i'll post it later on if I remember anything.

These are the steps after you remove all the panels and the center console. If you need to know how to remove the panels, do a search. It has been covered many times.

Step 1:

Wire up your head unit wires to your factory harness adapter before you start anything so that it's ready to go when it comes time to install it. Some manufactures have different colors so you will have to go by that manufacturers wiring diagram. I did not connect either the blue wire or the blue wire with a white tracer because it was the amp turn on and the amps will no longer be used. I can't remember which one it was so look at the directions your harness came with.

Step 2:

Once your panels are removed, you will be looking for 2 different color wires at each speaker. You will be looking for the following wires:

Brown (LF -)
Yellow (LF +)

Light Green (RF -)
Purple (RF+)

Green (LR -)
Red (LR +)

Blue (RR -)
Pink (RR +)

Remove all the speakers with a phillips head screw driver. For the 2 front speakers you will notice a harness right above the factory amp coming from inside the door panel. Disconnect the harness from the amp and look for the brown and yellow wires for the left front and the light green and purple wires for the front right. THESE ARE THE ONLY WIRES YOU WILL BE USING. All the rest of the wires you can do away with if you choose. I removed all the extra wiring that wasn't needed along with the amp circuit boards cause that stuff is all useless now.

Cut the wires listed above and use the speaker wire you should have picked up to lengthen the wires. Next connect the female connectors to the new wiring and plug them into your new speakers. Screw your new speakers in and your done with the front.

Step 3:

The rear speakers are a bit easier since they don't have a bunch of clutter around them. Locate the harness connected to the rear speakers. Unplug them and look for the green and red wires for the left rear and the blue and pink wires for thr right rear and cut them. You will then do the same thing you did for the front. Lengthen the wires if necessary and connect the female connectors to the wiring, connect the speakers, and screw them in.

Your aftermarket head unit will now be plug and play. Plug it in and your good to go. The new speakers will now be running off of the deck.

I'm really tired and may have left out a couple things so if there is anything I left out that anyone can spot or if I didn't go into enough detail in any steps let me know and I will edit it. Other than that it's pretty straight forward and should be cake for anyone with any experience in mobile audio.

briangtbc

Thanks for the write-up. I may be looking to do this in my newly aquired '99 SE w/ the BOSE. When you say "harness adapter" do you mean something like Crutchfield sells to allow an aftermarket HU to be used with the BOSE speakers (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-CnFFTXJ...sp?i=142C4NN03) or this is something else entirely?

Ka$hThaRipper

iTrader: (15)

you don't have to buy those expensive adapters..if you can find this at walmart, get it, it should only be around 13 bux:

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

But this one is alot simpler and neater...

briangtbc

Yeah, I found the wire harness on Crutchfield shortly after my initial post. I guess if you have an aftermarket HU and speakers there's no need for that Scosche amplifier adapter. Thanks everyone!

Tver_Chupra06

iTrader: (1)

ok i know that this has been covered alot in several threads but im still completely lost. I bought a 95 max SE w/ Bose during the summer and finally have enough spare money to upgrade the stereo. I decided to go with a pioneer deh-p740mp head unit, cdt component speakers for the front, and a set of 6X9 coaxials for the rear deck. Im going to power the speakers with a sony amp (75W X 4 RMS). Now i have very little knowledge of how this is all going to work so here are my questions. I would make a separate thread but can't yet.
These questions will make you laugh and pity me at the same time:
1. The factory bose head unit is a double din size and the new one is a regular din. That being said, when i take the old one out and put the new one in, what do i do with the gaping hole that i now have?
2. Hypotheticly and thinking about the future: Would it be possible to run the 2 rear speakers from the head unit while the front and the sub are powered by an amp and what wiring harness will i need?
3. If the head unit will only serve for the input into the amp (no speakers running directly from HU) do i just get a standard wiring harness and not worry about all of the BOSE stuff?
4. Will this work?: I get the HU, a wiring harness, an amp, and speakers. Then I run the RCA cables to the amp and wire the speakers up to the amp. I just want to completely get around the bose as if it never existed.

I know this is all sub-noob questions but im getting pissed off at myself for being so lost which leads to even greater confusion.

Thanks

JacksMax

I have a '96 with a bose and am looking at replacing mine with an aftermarket too, any help with the above post, I'd like to know as well.

JacksMax

Never Mind. I did the install, it was a Sony Xplod with 4 Infiniti 6 1/2" speakers, went great. Bub Bye BOSE?!

LILMAN

This would have helped me out a couple of weeks ago when I upgraded for a second time to a in-dash tv . The fist deck I put in did not need a bypass not sure why? Do certain decks need a bypass and others don't? Anyway I ended up using an fm modulator WHICH I CANNOT TURN OFF. I don't know where to connect the on/off switch that came with it.

clear-mind@180

Just my 2c.... RE Ka$hThaRipper - that Schoshe adapter at Walmart = WMCPOS (Walmart Certified Piece O S...). I've been installing stereos for EONS and try as I did, you'll not eliminate the alternator whine with that adapter no matter how or where you ground it. Pay the extra ca$h and get a better adapter if you're dead set on replacing the stock bose (clarion) head unit and keeping the stock (crud) speakers...

JacksMax

I agree, except for the part about the "WMCPOS". I bought it and it worked great for me! No whine! New aftermarket speakers and HU.

Subhumanfreak

I have a question relating to this subject ok so I have a 95 GLE and it had bose but i totally removed everything and replaced the speakers and when I hook up the head unit, I cant get power when i hook the two yellows and the two reds and the ground is on metal, but when I hook up both yellows and both reds together i get power and the clock stays on and the power stays on to the head unit even if I take the keys out. Can anyone find a solution for this?It would be greatful thanx

JacksMax

Theres two power wires, one has power all the time, for things like presets and the clock, the other is only on when the car is running. I don't recall the colors of each, but if you reverse your two power wires, I will probably correct that problem

pmi3096

I install a Kenwood deck with the schoshe adapter and mine still working fine for 6 months now. I do wish that i spent the extra $$ and got the cleaner adapter that just plugs in like this one
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-o7iMMOi...51&I=142C4NN03

DomoMaxima98

iTrader: (6)

Hello, im new but i have a question.. i was trying to make a thread for this but it seems like im not allowed to make new threads yet...

so im sorry to hi- jack ya thread for my question but...

Im really new to Audio wiring and speakers and stuff but here it goes..

I have a 98 Max with a BOSE HU, but the rear deck speakers (i dunno whats in the doors) are Panasonics 15w 4 ohms.. one of them have went out on me, and i need a new speaker... i want to replace the HU, but i was told i would have to replace the speakers too, which all together would run me a lil over 300.00, so i figured maybe i would just change the speakers for now and just deal with it... i have a few questions and a couple of ideas...



^^ This is the hookup in the rear.. my first question is what is that connection piece (brown and Grey) from the wiring to the speakers...

Would i need to replace this piece if i got new speakers...

and also i found in my dad's attic my bros old Roadmaster 10 'in Subwoofers.. and i was wondering if i could hook them up one of two ways...

could i just disconnect the rear deck speakers and hook the wiring up to the subs? (w/o buying an amp) or buy an cheap amp, get the PAC kit and hook up the sub? im workin on a reallllllyyyy limited budget (lets just say 200) and i would liek a decent system to pump.. i usually play my music loud when its just me, but i have kids and dont usually play it loud when they are in the car...

dashan

The bose has 6 speakers (two on the door, two small ones on the front frame, two above the trunk). Why there are only wires for four speakers? Are there wires for the two small ones that is on the frame?

JacksMax

Yes, the door speakers have two wires that go in, then to the amp, then to the door speaker, and these two go also back up to the A pillar 1 inch speackers as well. (Seems goofy to go in the door, amp it and go back out the door, but thats how they did it)