Playing Burned CDs on the Stock unit....
Anyone have any problems with this? It's random, sometimes it will play them, sometimes they won't... it'll just come up with ERR on the screen and spit it out. Is everyones like this or is mine just faulty?
be sure you arent using 80 min CDRs and
try not to get too close to 74 mins. I usually stop 3-4 mins shy of 74. That seems to keep things playing quite consistantly. My changer does what you describe on the 80mins. Bummer as I just bought a 50 pack of them
what size are the tips for the gle
i got the gle to 95' u knwo that metal **** on the muffler
if i wanted to put a tip on i would somehow rip that off ritea???
and what is the size that ihave to get after takin the stock tip off so i have a good fitting
btw I CAN get u Exceellent prices on TIps ALl cost Price and in CANADIAN DOLLARS
if i wanted to put a tip on i would somehow rip that off ritea???
and what is the size that ihave to get after takin the stock tip off so i have a good fitting
btw I CAN get u Exceellent prices on TIps ALl cost Price and in CANADIAN DOLLARS
Originally posted by MaxedOut
my whole cd collection is CD-R's....almost all of them work.. i have only encountered one that hasnt worked....
it should work
my whole cd collection is CD-R's....almost all of them work.. i have only encountered one that hasnt worked....
it should work
muffler and tips
i dont know.. im deciding on what i want to do... i think im gonna get one thats 1 piece..possibly a stillen one or some other one... trying to see what sounds good and at a resonable price
Re: muffler and tips
I c when u find out teh size of the muffler on the 95 gle after taking out the stock tip can u tell me what it is ...
i dont feel confident measuring myself .. although it looks close to 2 inches ...
i dont feel confident measuring myself .. although it looks close to 2 inches ...
Originally posted by MaxedOut
i dont know.. im deciding on what i want to do... i think im gonna get one thats 1 piece..possibly a stillen one or some other one... trying to see what sounds good and at a resonable price
i dont know.. im deciding on what i want to do... i think im gonna get one thats 1 piece..possibly a stillen one or some other one... trying to see what sounds good and at a resonable price
I have a 95 SE with BOSE >>>>>>>>>>>>
and I have no problems of playing the CD's that I burn, but I use the gold ones, I have heard that the Blue ones(look at the bottom of the color of the CD) could make it hard for some CD players to read, this I have witnessed on other CD players. Good Luck !!!!!!
Guest
Posts: n/a
GLE stock stereo
My stock BOSE unit plays the first 4 to 6 tracks on a burned CD-R and then starts distorting, then eventally displaying "ERR.." I had two CD-R's that did NOT suffer this and played all the way through, BUT the rest have had problems after the sixth track. They play on all my other CD players, but not on my DVD player. Why?
I will try using a different brand/time CD-R and format of recording it. And also try to find another Maxima with the same BOSE unit to see if it also suffers the same or it's just mine. Keep all of you posted.
I will try using a different brand/time CD-R and format of recording it. And also try to find another Maxima with the same BOSE unit to see if it also suffers the same or it's just mine. Keep all of you posted.
a some experiences of mine
I have heard/witnessed several things when it comes to cd-rs
1) if you use a crap burner (i.e. a cheap one) lots of times it doesn't matter what brand/type of cd-r you use.. it will still skip or you get a err message on cd players..
2) I was told by a pretty knowledgable guy in my old office that discs go as follows
green bottom=cheapest.. not good for audio playback
blue=middle grade.. can work for audio..
gold=great.. probably best for audio
silver=EXCELLENT.. but good luck finding them.. and I've also heard they are TOO reflective and confuse the burners laser and you don't get a clean burn often..
I bought a spindle of the green bottom memorex before I knew this.. THEY ARE CRAP.. out of the 30 discs.. two of them worked without skipping and dropping out.. I had used blue bottom maxell's with no problems.. I also heard verbatims are great (I just bought 30 of em last night.. seem to work so far).. I think memorex are crap.. as are "off brands".. I have heard that lots of players won't read the 80min ones and often older burners get confused when trying to read/burn 80 min discs (for some reason).. also..... don't burn audio over 2x... that is optimal for audio (.wav)... if you burn over that its possible to suffer a loss of info.. (at least thats what I've been told).. even with a high buffer burning program (I use adaptec easy cd) and a quick cd-rom.. (keep in mind also if your burning from disc to disc and your cd-rom can't keep up with the burner its pointless..) good luck!...
1) if you use a crap burner (i.e. a cheap one) lots of times it doesn't matter what brand/type of cd-r you use.. it will still skip or you get a err message on cd players..
2) I was told by a pretty knowledgable guy in my old office that discs go as follows
green bottom=cheapest.. not good for audio playback
blue=middle grade.. can work for audio..
gold=great.. probably best for audio
silver=EXCELLENT.. but good luck finding them.. and I've also heard they are TOO reflective and confuse the burners laser and you don't get a clean burn often..
I bought a spindle of the green bottom memorex before I knew this.. THEY ARE CRAP.. out of the 30 discs.. two of them worked without skipping and dropping out.. I had used blue bottom maxell's with no problems.. I also heard verbatims are great (I just bought 30 of em last night.. seem to work so far).. I think memorex are crap.. as are "off brands".. I have heard that lots of players won't read the 80min ones and often older burners get confused when trying to read/burn 80 min discs (for some reason).. also..... don't burn audio over 2x... that is optimal for audio (.wav)... if you burn over that its possible to suffer a loss of info.. (at least thats what I've been told).. even with a high buffer burning program (I use adaptec easy cd) and a quick cd-rom.. (keep in mind also if your burning from disc to disc and your cd-rom can't keep up with the burner its pointless..) good luck!...
Re: a some experiences of mine
EHH, not exactly.. here are the facts..
- Stick to name brands... You get what you pay for, and generally the less transparent the surface of the cd, the better (ie.. hold it up to the light, if you can see easily through the cd, thats BAD...)
- ALWAYS ALYWAS ALWAYS ALWAYS burn your cd's with at least 2 second gaps... My 2K stock CD player chokes on 1 sec gaps...
- Try not to leave your cdr's in the car during the summer.. (i live in Jersey, and it gets HOT, especially inside darker maxima's!!!).. The organic substrate gets warped, and the cheap cdr's always go first..!!!
-Leave a cd on the seat/dashboard/hood, on a sunny day, and it becomes a coaster...
- I personally NEVER use 80 min cdr's... they confuse the crap out of my cdr, and almost every player I have come across... (they rely on higher tolerance in newer drives, to compress the spiral to obtain +6 min in the same amount of space..) [I'm not sure what the correct tehcnical terms to use here are]
- Always burn at the maximum you can... No such thing as data being lost to burning above 2x. In fact, I hear (from respectable sources), that it might be quite the opposite.. On cheaper CDR drives, burning too slow does not automatically reset the laser intensity.. Your image may beceme too "dark" for lack of better terminology..
[FYI - Info is ALWAYS lost when burning cd's... Believe it or not... #1. Many (including myself), claim that you can actually hear the difference between an LP and a CD [i'm not talking about the pops/crackles...] I can't really describe it much more than saying it affects the "warmth" of the music.. #2.. All of the redundancy information is NOT stored on an audio CD (all of it is pure audio data).. Therefore, copying/reading an audio CD is basically a "best-guess" procedure.. :-)]
-Get a copy of Nero, and bypass the whole (convert to wav) crap...
-Don't buy spindles until you find a brand that works great with both your CDR and cd player.. (ie.. buy single/double, etc. packs, and try them out first, before slapping down the $$$ for a spindle of 50/100 etc.) Different brands DO achieve different results.. Remember, you get what you pay for.. Buy 20 cent CD's at a computer show, and they probably won't work quite as well as $1.00 Brand Name CD's.. Some companies sell special "Audio" cdr's... never tried one of these, so I can't really say anything about it..
-Regards
- Stick to name brands... You get what you pay for, and generally the less transparent the surface of the cd, the better (ie.. hold it up to the light, if you can see easily through the cd, thats BAD...)
- ALWAYS ALYWAS ALWAYS ALWAYS burn your cd's with at least 2 second gaps... My 2K stock CD player chokes on 1 sec gaps...
- Try not to leave your cdr's in the car during the summer.. (i live in Jersey, and it gets HOT, especially inside darker maxima's!!!).. The organic substrate gets warped, and the cheap cdr's always go first..!!!
-Leave a cd on the seat/dashboard/hood, on a sunny day, and it becomes a coaster...
- I personally NEVER use 80 min cdr's... they confuse the crap out of my cdr, and almost every player I have come across... (they rely on higher tolerance in newer drives, to compress the spiral to obtain +6 min in the same amount of space..) [I'm not sure what the correct tehcnical terms to use here are]
- Always burn at the maximum you can... No such thing as data being lost to burning above 2x. In fact, I hear (from respectable sources), that it might be quite the opposite.. On cheaper CDR drives, burning too slow does not automatically reset the laser intensity.. Your image may beceme too "dark" for lack of better terminology..
[FYI - Info is ALWAYS lost when burning cd's... Believe it or not... #1. Many (including myself), claim that you can actually hear the difference between an LP and a CD [i'm not talking about the pops/crackles...] I can't really describe it much more than saying it affects the "warmth" of the music.. #2.. All of the redundancy information is NOT stored on an audio CD (all of it is pure audio data).. Therefore, copying/reading an audio CD is basically a "best-guess" procedure.. :-)]
-Get a copy of Nero, and bypass the whole (convert to wav) crap...
-Don't buy spindles until you find a brand that works great with both your CDR and cd player.. (ie.. buy single/double, etc. packs, and try them out first, before slapping down the $$$ for a spindle of 50/100 etc.) Different brands DO achieve different results.. Remember, you get what you pay for.. Buy 20 cent CD's at a computer show, and they probably won't work quite as well as $1.00 Brand Name CD's.. Some companies sell special "Audio" cdr's... never tried one of these, so I can't really say anything about it..
-Regards
Originally posted by justinmc
I have heard/witnessed several things when it comes to cd-rs
1) if you use a crap burner (i.e. a cheap one) lots of times it doesn't matter what brand/type of cd-r you use.. it will still skip or you get a err message on cd players..
2) I was told by a pretty knowledgable guy in my old office that discs go as follows
green bottom=cheapest.. not good for audio playback
blue=middle grade.. can work for audio..
gold=great.. probably best for audio
silver=EXCELLENT.. but good luck finding them.. and I've also heard they are TOO reflective and confuse the burners laser and you don't get a clean burn often..
I bought a spindle of the green bottom memorex before I knew this.. THEY ARE CRAP.. out of the 30 discs.. two of them worked without skipping and dropping out.. I had used blue bottom maxell's with no problems.. I also heard verbatims are great (I just bought 30 of em last night.. seem to work so far).. I think memorex are crap.. as are "off brands".. I have heard that lots of players won't read the 80min ones and often older burners get confused when trying to read/burn 80 min discs (for some reason).. also..... don't burn audio over 2x... that is optimal for audio (.wav)... if you burn over that its possible to suffer a loss of info.. (at least thats what I've been told).. even with a high buffer burning program (I use adaptec easy cd) and a quick cd-rom.. (keep in mind also if your burning from disc to disc and your cd-rom can't keep up with the burner its pointless..) good luck!...
I have heard/witnessed several things when it comes to cd-rs
1) if you use a crap burner (i.e. a cheap one) lots of times it doesn't matter what brand/type of cd-r you use.. it will still skip or you get a err message on cd players..
2) I was told by a pretty knowledgable guy in my old office that discs go as follows
green bottom=cheapest.. not good for audio playback
blue=middle grade.. can work for audio..
gold=great.. probably best for audio
silver=EXCELLENT.. but good luck finding them.. and I've also heard they are TOO reflective and confuse the burners laser and you don't get a clean burn often..
I bought a spindle of the green bottom memorex before I knew this.. THEY ARE CRAP.. out of the 30 discs.. two of them worked without skipping and dropping out.. I had used blue bottom maxell's with no problems.. I also heard verbatims are great (I just bought 30 of em last night.. seem to work so far).. I think memorex are crap.. as are "off brands".. I have heard that lots of players won't read the 80min ones and often older burners get confused when trying to read/burn 80 min discs (for some reason).. also..... don't burn audio over 2x... that is optimal for audio (.wav)... if you burn over that its possible to suffer a loss of info.. (at least thats what I've been told).. even with a high buffer burning program (I use adaptec easy cd) and a quick cd-rom.. (keep in mind also if your burning from disc to disc and your cd-rom can't keep up with the burner its pointless..) good luck!...
In my experiences, TDK brand CD-R works fine for me. I have never tried any other brand, but have also used Adaptec Easy CD Creator to burn my CDs. The CD-R is 74 min long, and the CDs that I've burnt were on a Sony and an HP burner.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Did you say color?
What color you looking for?
http://www.rima.com/index.html
If for some reason this link does not work, remember I am
a NEWBIE
BTW, I have had no diference from any color of CDR.
http://www.rima.com/index.html
If for some reason this link does not work, remember I am
a NEWBIE

BTW, I have had no diference from any color of CDR.
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 968
might have your answer
this may happen because of file quality. i've had songs from napster that i burned to disc that played great on the napster interface, but when they got on disc would not play and i got the error message. I have been told because for some reason or another, napster plays files that are ok to listen to, but are crap for burning to disc and these files show up as good files when you try to burn them.
Jules
stock radio, no prob with 80 mins either.
Jules
stock radio, no prob with 80 mins either.
has anyone had a problem with burned cd-r's in aftermarket cd headunits or cd changers....just curious because i am getting a rf modulated cd changer and i was wondering if i am going to have the same problem that people have playing burned cd-r's on their bose units.
CD-R Changer Compatibility
Originally posted by platinumplus
has anyone had a problem with burned cd-r's in aftermarket cd headunits or cd changers....just curious because i am getting a rf modulated cd changer and i was wondering if i am going to have the same problem that people have playing burned cd-r's on their bose units.
has anyone had a problem with burned cd-r's in aftermarket cd headunits or cd changers....just curious because i am getting a rf modulated cd changer and i was wondering if i am going to have the same problem that people have playing burned cd-r's on their bose units.
Re: CD-R Changer Compatibility
Originally posted by Maximum Velocity
Platinumplus...I have a Sony Moblie ES Changer hooked up to a Moblie ES head unit in another car, and I have trouble with the burned CDs. Sometimes they play without any trouble, and sometimes they don't. The ones that play without any trouble are the ones that have been converted into wav files then burned using adaptec, but the ones using Sonic Foundry's Siren Jukebox program, and burned without the need to convert them have given me trouble. However, they play fine in a Sony Discman. The CD-Rs with my Bose unit in the Max gives me no trouble.
Originally posted by platinumplus
has anyone had a problem with burned cd-r's in aftermarket cd headunits or cd changers....just curious because i am getting a rf modulated cd changer and i was wondering if i am going to have the same problem that people have playing burned cd-r's on their bose units.
has anyone had a problem with burned cd-r's in aftermarket cd headunits or cd changers....just curious because i am getting a rf modulated cd changer and i was wondering if i am going to have the same problem that people have playing burned cd-r's on their bose units.
This is what i've seen
Use the gold ones, 74 or 80 minutes. The green or blue ones will work but are more sensitive. I made a cd for my Max on an 80 minute this week but went to like 79:30. It didn't work and out the window it went. I went home and took out one song to bring it to like 73:30 and bingo it worked. So the moral or the story is use the gold ones unless your very careful with you cd's and use whatever length cd's you want just don't go past the 74 minutes mark and you'll be straight.
________
Pattaya Heights
________
Pattaya Heights
Last edited by dmbmaxima2k2; Sep 4, 2011 at 11:29 PM.
Re: might have your answer
nah... you've been told wrong... There are rather strict guidelines for the mp3 format, and besides, your not burning an mp3 file to the cd, your burning an audio track... apples and oranges!!!
The quality of the file you download, on the other hand, depends on things such as bitrate, frequency, and how much of a moron the person ripping the song was...
-Tom
The quality of the file you download, on the other hand, depends on things such as bitrate, frequency, and how much of a moron the person ripping the song was...
-Tom
Originally posted by SINYMaxSE
this may happen because of file quality. i've had songs from napster that i burned to disc that played great on the napster interface, but when they got on disc would not play and i got the error message. I have been told because for some reason or another, napster plays files that are ok to listen to, but are crap for burning to disc and these files show up as good files when you try to burn them.
Jules
stock radio, no prob with 80 mins either.
this may happen because of file quality. i've had songs from napster that i burned to disc that played great on the napster interface, but when they got on disc would not play and i got the error message. I have been told because for some reason or another, napster plays files that are ok to listen to, but are crap for burning to disc and these files show up as good files when you try to burn them.
Jules
stock radio, no prob with 80 mins either.
Re: This is what i've seen
The difference in color is due to different manufacturing processes for the substrate on which info is recorded... basically, the more you pay, the better quality "stuff" you get... I'm not really sure if there IS a consensus on which "color" cd is unequivocably the best... (i always use the cyan ones, currently on a batch of SDK's (nope, not TDK's.. SDK's), and no problems yet).. So simply saying that GOLD are best isn't necessarily true for EVERYBODY... i still recommend experimenting with different media (to see what's the cheapest you could get away with)..
AND, don't worry about longetivity, most cdr's will last millions of reads, assuming you treat them right.. Besides, are you gonna be listening to the same cd's a year from now?? i'm not!!!
I made a generalization (in one of my previous posts) saying that the "lighter" the tint, the worse quality... In my experiences I have found this to be true, but can not be absolutely certain that other factors were not involved..
I **could** hypothesize that the reflective properties of the data layer decrease with tint, and therefore lighter cd's would be more prone to error in both reading and writing (your cd burner has to maintain a lock on a pre-existing spiral grove during the burn process)..
80 min cd's IMHO are a bad idea... with newer drives, it may not be as apparent, but you increase your chances of skipping, and tracking errors, especially in older players.. I'd rather sacrifice one song per cd, and just burn within the "lowest common denominator" specifications (on 74 min cd's)
***Burning 74 minutes on 80 min cd's does not solve the tolerance problems, since it just leaves blank space on the cd...** However, if your cd player fails because it's not programmed to read up to 80 minutes, than 80 min cd's MAY still work w/ only 74 minutes burned.. hope i didn't confuse you with this last paragraph... if so, ignore it...***
-Tom
AND, don't worry about longetivity, most cdr's will last millions of reads, assuming you treat them right.. Besides, are you gonna be listening to the same cd's a year from now?? i'm not!!!
I made a generalization (in one of my previous posts) saying that the "lighter" the tint, the worse quality... In my experiences I have found this to be true, but can not be absolutely certain that other factors were not involved..
I **could** hypothesize that the reflective properties of the data layer decrease with tint, and therefore lighter cd's would be more prone to error in both reading and writing (your cd burner has to maintain a lock on a pre-existing spiral grove during the burn process)..
80 min cd's IMHO are a bad idea... with newer drives, it may not be as apparent, but you increase your chances of skipping, and tracking errors, especially in older players.. I'd rather sacrifice one song per cd, and just burn within the "lowest common denominator" specifications (on 74 min cd's)
***Burning 74 minutes on 80 min cd's does not solve the tolerance problems, since it just leaves blank space on the cd...** However, if your cd player fails because it's not programmed to read up to 80 minutes, than 80 min cd's MAY still work w/ only 74 minutes burned.. hope i didn't confuse you with this last paragraph... if so, ignore it...***
-Tom
Originally posted by dmbmaxima88
Use the gold ones, 74 or 80 minutes. The green or blue ones will work but are more sensitive. I made a cd for my Max on an 80 minute this week but went to like 79:30. It didn't work and out the window it went. I went home and took out one song to bring it to like 73:30 and bingo it worked. So the moral or the story is use the gold ones unless your very careful with you cd's and use whatever length cd's you want just don't go past the 74 minutes mark and you'll be straight.
Use the gold ones, 74 or 80 minutes. The green or blue ones will work but are more sensitive. I made a cd for my Max on an 80 minute this week but went to like 79:30. It didn't work and out the window it went. I went home and took out one song to bring it to like 73:30 and bingo it worked. So the moral or the story is use the gold ones unless your very careful with you cd's and use whatever length cd's you want just don't go past the 74 minutes mark and you'll be straight.
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