Strontium

I'm going to start the complete replacement of the BOSE factory system, with the reciever. I've pretty much decided on this unit:

http://tinyurl.com/248v23

Some questions. Will I need anything else, besides the Metra dash kit and the included wiring harness? For now, I am keeping the BOSE speakers (until I can afford to replace all of them). Will I need some sort of aftermarket wiring harness or is that what's included with the HU? I noticed in older threads that there is a specific wiring harness for replacing BOSE. However, this is an '07. Also, not sure if that's what's included already with the reciever.

Also, will I be able to power all 4 speakers + the two 8" subs (rear deck) with this unit? Or, will I still need to be using the stock amps for the subs? As you can probably already tell, I'm clueless about anything remotely related to car electronics/audio. I guess I really need some tips on the wiring. Would like to use the stock wiring until I can switch out the speakers and subs.

Eventually, I want to have replaced the reciever, speakers, any amps and subs completely. Am considering Infinity for the speakers/subs.

Any advice/tips appreciated. TIA.

Stront

DOHCtorJT

iTrader: (3)

You'll need the PAC-ROEM unit (about $60) to replace the factory bose stereo with an aftermarket deck. The stock bose amp/speakers will still work. That Clarion unit is nice, but remember...they also made the Bose stereo you're replacing....it all comes down to preference. Some people love Bose, or Infinity, Kraco, etc...others think the most expensive stuff is best.

The new deck (or any aftermarket deck) will NOT power subwoofers. You'll need an amp for that.

My advice, spend some time searching these forums and you'll find all your answers while learning quite a bit!

Strontium

Thanks. I was kind of figuring that I'd still need the harness. And, yeah, I've read a lot about Clarion being rebadged as Bose for these cars. It's not a bad head unit. It just has zero configurability with regards to the sound. Base, Mid, Treble -1 through +5 just doesn't cut it What I'm really longing to replace is the speaker system. However, that's going to be a bit more expensive and confusing. So, I'm getting the reciever out of the way. It's also going to be nice plugging in a 2.5" USB 2.0 drive into the unit and having access to around 2,000 CD's.

Now, when you say that the unit will not power the factory sub woofers...won't the factory amps do this for me? You say the factory amps will still work with that harness. I guess I'm confused as to what powers the factory amps.

Stront

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

got a 6th gen i see...

the factory amp will power the stock woofers, when you get the harness and such (at least for me...i don't have bose though)

Strontium

Sweet, thanks!

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

I think you can get away with using the metra 70-7551 instaed of the pac. Your call $15 vs $60.

Strontium

I've read several posts mentioning both. Could never find any concrete statements as to what the actual difference is between the two. Is the Metra 'riskier' to use? I don't really care about blowing out the factory amp/speakers as they'll be replaced in a couple of months. More worried about the head unit. As it is, I can't even find any place locally that carries the PAC. They all carry the Metra stuff.

Stront

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Metra's not riskier but it requries a higher voltage headunit, I mean you can get away with something lower like 2v but ideally 5v. I've used it in a bunch of installs never had a problem.

Strontium

Sounds reasonable. The voltage you're referring to, is that the pre-amp voltage or a different voltage? This unit claims 5.6V. The only harness I can seem to find locally is the 7550. Is the 7551 generally not available except online? AscendentMax, you know of any place locally that carries the 7551? How about dash kits (7421)? Fry's only had the 7416 or similar.

I ended up getting the 675USB unit, instead of the 775USB. Either a certain lot number or the entire model of the 775USB got recalled from Fry's Electronics. Not sure what that's about, but there's no mention on Crutchfield about any recall so I'm guessing it's a certain lot. Either way,I only lose 1 PEQ channel and some colors.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

hm, i don't know any place locally that has them. but i can ask this shop i'm sorta affilated with heh. they can probably get a hold of one.

Strontium

Nah, it's ok. I decided to just pick up the 7550. I've been reading how others have experienced lower sound volumes when using the RCA jacks. Just means I get to splice some wires Picked that and the antenna adaptor up for $30 at Best Buy on Richmond.

Just need to borrow my buddie's drill for the USB and AUX inputs and I'll be tearing the dash apart tomorrow.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

good luck with the install. and be careful with the metal cage that holds the HU in. the edges are VERY sharp. it can scratch the crap outa the plastic on the dash, or maybe cut a finger open.

Strontium

Hehe, thanks. Will post how it went.

Strontium

Okay, I'm almost done with this. However, I have a small issue. I've done all the wiring with solder and heat shrink. The unit works. The sound is fantastic. Catch is, there is lots of static. Even when the engine is not running and no headlights. Is this due to grounding? I could really only find one place to ground in the vicinity of the dash and that's the steel looking pillar in the center on both sides of the center of the dash.

Is there some easy way to ground to the chassis?

I've, also, looked more into the climate control display. It seems to be just DEAD. That part is REALLY bothering me. Anyway, going to go look for other places to ground the HU. Hope someone can help me with some ideas.

Strontium

Update:

Apparently, one of the stock head unit's connectors on the factory harness is exactly the same size and number of pinholes as the climate control display's power source

So, my only final issue is grounding. From googling around and also looking everywhere I can imagine in the dash, it looks like i'm going to have to drill a hole through the firewall? I've read something about connecting to the emergency brake but from looking at things that would be a pain to get to. It's a shame, this headunit sounds very nice. Makes some use of the stock speakers unlike the factory headunit. And, the subs do work.

Anyway, it's dark out so this is going to be a project for tomorrow. It amazes me that there isn't a simpler way to get to a good ground point. The one I have is sufficient for safety of the headunit. But the static is not good.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

u can ground onto that big metal bar behind the screen. or there's some metal stuff on the driver side you can ground to.

Strontium

Yeah, the post that I grounded it to is connected to the vent duct? is what it looks like. That's what's directly behind the screens. It is metal. Maybe because there's welding between that piece and the part I'm trying to ground into (mounting bracket for the DIN holder)?

Strontium

OK, so after looking around inside the dash and also making sure my power wires were segregated from the ground and speaker wires, I can't find a good place to ground inside the dash. Every piece of metal is galvanized. The pieces that are not galvanized are insulated from the rest of the car, as well.

I'm curious if everyone else's dashes have nothing but galvanized metal in them? If so, where is everyone grounding their head units in Maximas lol. I guess I'm going to have to find a way through the firewall and hope there's a grounding point on the other side already drilled.

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

if you look in and towards the driver's side, there should be a metal panel with a few holes in it. you can ground there.

Strontium

Didn't see anything not galvanized over that way, but I'll look again in daylight.

Strontium

So, I guess I'm done. Couldn't find another place to ground to. Most of the noise is in USB mode. In other modes it's more of a constant low level hiss. Wonder if that might just be due to the crappy factory speaker wires. Even bought 15ft of 12ga wire and ran the ground directly to the battery for testing purposes.

Kind of a shame. Purchased the unit for two major reasons. USB capability. SQ is great, however the noise interference on the USB line is unbearable. Overall SQ of the system. If I can not be bothered by the low hiss in the system between tracks, I'll be able to live with it.

Not as good as it could have turned out.

Thanks for all the help.

Strontium

Okay, so my noob @ss learned some things. And, I'm glad it was the hard way. That's how I've learned most things.

Looking up FAQ's only goes so far

In the end, I found out that it was only a certain lot that got recalled on the DXZ775USB unit. So, after going through the ropes learning this aftermarket HU + Bose amp/speaker thing, I called Fry's up and said I wanted to exchange for the 775 minus the cables and sleeve since they're installed already. They agreed, which is not a shock since they are the exact same units minus functionality.

End result is the sound is much better due to way more options for sound shaping. Looking back, the 675 is pretty much a 'bose' factory unit. Wasn't much to play with, concerning sound.

Anyone considering saving $50 and getting the 675 don't do it. Not worth it. The only lingering problem is now I can hear the amp/speakers shortcomings. 3 months, and I'll be hitting someone in this group up for some fedex action.



Of course, this is only for those of us poor schmucks that can't drop $600 on a deck till we can finish the entire bose replacement.