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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:07 AM
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Need Some Ideas

I am putting in a new System for my 06 Maxima. I have the NAv so the deck will be stock. I was looking into adding a JL Audio Summing device along with their dsp processor/ Equalizer. The problem is that I think I am going to lose some volume when I do this.

I will be running the following:
(2) JL 3002 one to each side of the Components
Set of DYN Audio Three Way Components in the front, no rears
1 Jl 500 1 Pushing a 12w6 in a ported box.
1 Alumapro 5 Farad Cap

I had this system in my 2000 Maxima but I also had a eclipse Deck! Of Course you will all say turn up the amps but then you really will be add more distortion.

I want to compete sq, but this time will not be using a Outboard EQ that I can control!

Any Advice about setup or Ideas will be appreciated

Thank You
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Line driver?

Or why not just get it installed and go from there. If the output isnt what you were expecting adjust/ add line driver or something..

Have you considered going active? You could very easily use 2 amps and run active vs 2 amps bridged to one side each.
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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Active, That was our intial thought but we found out in the previous maxima that the 300/2 bridged match the dyns very well so we would assume that wuld be the same here. But I was also of thinking of just buy another set a dyns and do two pairs with a sub and one 300/2 to each pair!
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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So 4 amps and 4 mids/midranges/and tweets?? Thats quite obnoxious

I don't see an issue goign active, it'll allow you to better fine tune your setup and dial in as much mid/midrange/hights that you want.... but whatever works for you.
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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I dont know what you mean when you say active? I may be a little confused!
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Active = A dedicated amp to Each driver. No passive crossovers in line.
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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Got it now,
But if we go this route how do I get the signal off of the deck to be a split signal, one for tweets and one for the mids
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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External processing.
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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im so surprised that neither of you have said to lose the cap.
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 01:41 PM
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I'm surprised you haven't gone active yet!!!
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 01:43 PM
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im surprised.....shutup.

no 3 way capable HU or external processor

actually theres a brand new Memphis 3-way laying around in my shop...
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 06:58 AM
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Why get rid of the Caps?
Also this three way active thing may not work after further research, because each of the drivers are 6 ohms and the amps will not be pushing them as hard as if they were 3 ohms coming out of the Cross over!
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 06:59 AM
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Don't really need the cap.

You'll still be fine at 6 ohm per driver. Who says you have to max out your amp.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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I guess your right, but why no cap?

I think I am just going to go with the two amps bridged to one side and a sub amp! i will RTA when it is done and hopefully be on the Money!
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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Cap isn't needed really. It's puts more strain on your electrical system, there are some benefits, but for the most part they are not needed. I run ~1300 watts rms without one.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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Don't forget they look kewl! Yeah caps are more harm than help, unless you are competing.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:21 AM
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ty
So are you a installer at all! or love car audio!
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:23 AM
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Also my cap will not be hooked up to the battery at all
only to the fuse block! SO it shouldnt strain the Electrical system seeing that it has a turn on solinoid and all!

And Yes I will be competing
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mendon99
im surprised.....shutup.

no 3 way capable HU or external processor

actually theres a brand new Memphis 3-way laying around in my shop...

uh huh
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by JPIZZLE
Also my cap will not be hooked up to the battery at all
only to the fuse block! SO it shouldnt strain the Electrical system seeing that it has a turn on solinoid and all!

And Yes I will be competing
And whats the fuse block connected to?

If it turns off then it has to refill some how everytime its shut off... = strain on electrical
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by JPIZZLE
Also my cap will not be hooked up to the battery at all
Is your car solar powered? lol Had to get you on that one.

Are you competing in SPL or SQL?

Also, I'm guessing you're not gonna take the cap out after you finish competing, therefore running the cap continuously during normal play and creating more of a strain on your electrical system.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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Sorry, just read your OP stating you compete in SQ. If that's the case, toss the cap.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 09:17 AM
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This thread = teh funnAy !
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 09:50 AM
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Here is what I am saying not to be a idiot but this is what I was talking about:

Cap wired to remote turn on via its solinoid. Then it is wired to the fuse block output. 1/0 Gauge to the block 4 4gauges out, 3 out to the amps and 1 to the cap. So then the cap is used when the system is on and the cap does not draw power directly form the battery,. This setup usually helps with draw to the battery and is recommend for people who need to extra power when the roll on the volume.

Also it was my understanding, when you compete you could have the cap if your are in the ultimate and pro ultimate classes, but I may have misread it!
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 10:07 AM
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Its still not needed and it's still drawing from your battery.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 10:28 AM
  #26  
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So no Cap! Even though it is not your traditional c.a.p
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JPIZZLE
Also it was my understanding, when you compete you could have the cap if your are in the ultimate and pro ultimate classes, but I may have misread it!

I didn't say you "couldn't" use it, I just wouldn't. But you're in SQ, so I recant my earlier statement.....I'm not sure how a cap would affect your SQ in "competition". You may want to ask if someone in this forum uses caps in SQ comps.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 10:48 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JPIZZLE
So no Cap! Even though it is not your traditional c.a.p

Simply just dont need it.

Im also well aware of what cap it is..
www.alumapro.com > Dealer Locator > New Jersey > Next to last one down would be me for the past several years.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #29  
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That is what I am using the 5 farad C.A.P
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Ok, did you miss what I posted? I said Im well aware of what it is and I also said it's not needed.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #31  
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Point Taken! Why does it seem that you always have the right answer, its like you have done it before or like you install audio. Once again I am mislead by the people at the other shop telling me I needed this. Stupid Cap!
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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i dont get it. is it not a capacitor?
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 01:21 PM
  #33  
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hmm I will do it no cap and see what happens !
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 01:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JPIZZLE
Point Taken! Why does it seem that you always have the right answer, its like you have done it before or like you install audio. Once again I am mislead by the people at the other shop telling me I needed this. Stupid Cap!

I dont always have the right answer. But if Im unsure, then Ill say that.

Yes I have done it once or twice.
Old Jul 13, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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once or twice times 1000.
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