Running an amp with Bose Head unit
#1
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Hey, I have read a lot of the other questions on this, but none really answered my question in particular. I wish to keep my Bose system, but am throwing some a pair of W6s and PPI amp in back. Taking previous advice, I purchased a high/low converter that turns the channels into RCAs.
My question-- where exactly do I put this??? A shop had called the company that makes the high/low and asked where to do it on a 96 Maxima, and they had said up by the head unit, but that would require me to mess with the console (Nissans snap together technology scares me- I never know if what I am pulling on will snap out, or snap apart).
Other people had said to tap into the right and left rear channels in back by the actual speakers, which would be easier, but would it be as high quality? If I were to put it back there, would I splice the wires befire they connect to the Bose amp, or after they go into the amp before they go into the speakers?
I had read someones post and a reply had told them that 3M makes an adapter that allows you to run the remote without splicing the wires. If this is true, where can I get it, and will the adapter let me do both the signal and remote?
Sorry this is so long, but help would be greatly appreciated...
~Derek
My question-- where exactly do I put this??? A shop had called the company that makes the high/low and asked where to do it on a 96 Maxima, and they had said up by the head unit, but that would require me to mess with the console (Nissans snap together technology scares me- I never know if what I am pulling on will snap out, or snap apart).
Other people had said to tap into the right and left rear channels in back by the actual speakers, which would be easier, but would it be as high quality? If I were to put it back there, would I splice the wires befire they connect to the Bose amp, or after they go into the amp before they go into the speakers?
I had read someones post and a reply had told them that 3M makes an adapter that allows you to run the remote without splicing the wires. If this is true, where can I get it, and will the adapter let me do both the signal and remote?
Sorry this is so long, but help would be greatly appreciated...
~Derek
#2
Originally posted by Yellowbrother
this is how i did it.....
first timekept all the stock amp and just added an amp and sub)
run power from battery to amp....ground the amp....tap into the positive side that powers the individual bose speaker amp to the rmt/remote.....
as far as ur audio signal goes...u can tap it behind the head unit but it's alot of hassles....since u got one of those speaker to rca converter they should have a pots to adjust the impedence level....i tapped into the rear speakers.....i would suggest to tap into the audio signal before the amp because that is the purest signal...if u tap into audio signal after the amp then u r getting all the amplified noise also....
if u open the amp cover u should see four wires....the smaller set is the audio signal...the bigger set is power and ground....the ground is a solid black color i think....
second time i did it......
i took off all of the bose amp and powered all the speakers with my rf 800x4 amp....
if ur amp has a speaker level input then u wouldn't need and speaker to rca converter.....
this is how i did it.....
first timekept all the stock amp and just added an amp and sub)
run power from battery to amp....ground the amp....tap into the positive side that powers the individual bose speaker amp to the rmt/remote.....
as far as ur audio signal goes...u can tap it behind the head unit but it's alot of hassles....since u got one of those speaker to rca converter they should have a pots to adjust the impedence level....i tapped into the rear speakers.....i would suggest to tap into the audio signal before the amp because that is the purest signal...if u tap into audio signal after the amp then u r getting all the amplified noise also....
if u open the amp cover u should see four wires....the smaller set is the audio signal...the bigger set is power and ground....the ground is a solid black color i think....
second time i did it......
i took off all of the bose amp and powered all the speakers with my rf 800x4 amp....
if ur amp has a speaker level input then u wouldn't need and speaker to rca converter.....
#4
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Posts: n/a
THX a million, I am to try this technique out on Thursday, wish me luck, just curious though- what guage power wire do you have, and where did you run it through the firewall? Someone had replied to my other post that addresses this problem, but he said to take out the steering wheel- something I'd rather not do for a 'simple' task.
~Derek
~Derek
#5
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Posts: n/a
High Low converter
Originally posted by DaMaxima
Im thinking of adding some subs and amp to my stock bose system. Where did you get the converter from?
Im thinking of adding some subs and amp to my stock bose system. Where did you get the converter from?
Simply go to any 'audio specialist' store (if there is such a thing) and ask for a high low converter. If the person working is incompetent tell them you need to run an amp and wish to keep your stock Bose system, they 'should' know what you're talking about.
#7
Adding an amp
The best way to add an amp to the existing factory Blose system when using a high/low converter would be to grab the signal from the rear speakers AFTER the Blose amp. Meaning you want to tap on right before the speaker wires go into the rear speakers, after they have already run through the amp. That way you get the most powerful input signal going to your aftermarket amp. I did an install in an I30 last week, doing exactly this and it worked very well. You can also grab amp turn-on off the bose amp, red wire i believe, but test to verify. You will need to drop the black basket around the Blose speaker to access the speaker wires.
Any more questions feel free to ask.....
Any more questions feel free to ask.....
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Adding an amp
Alright, thanks everyone. I have my subs hooked up and bumpin. I tapped into them right after the amp, before the speaker and it works fine. I reluctantly had to splice the wires as I could not find a tab that would let me leave the original wiring alone and run the wires from it. I don't think that this is the best way to run the amp, it would probably sound much better with preouts, but I didn't want to spend a whole bunch of money on a new head unit and inside speakers. One thing to keep in mind if you are doing this yourself, watch how you adjust the pots on the high low converter... before fine tuning, my subs made a significant hummmm even with the volume turned all the way down.
If you are looking for a hole in your firewall, look no further. On the 4th gen Max, there is a rubber plug about 4 inches above and an inch to the left of the fuel filter. I was easily able to feed 4 guage wire right through and had no problem finding where it came out inside.
If you are looking for a hole in your firewall, look no further. On the 4th gen Max, there is a rubber plug about 4 inches above and an inch to the left of the fuel filter. I was easily able to feed 4 guage wire right through and had no problem finding where it came out inside.
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