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Car Audio FAQ links

Old 07-22-2005, 07:15 AM
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PAC adapter

Just for Clarification ... This is the adapter I need to get the BUMP in my trunk without affecting the current audio setup in a 6th gen max correct?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
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Old 07-23-2005, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by thecritik
Just for Clarification ... This is the adapter I need to get the BUMP in my trunk without affecting the current audio setup in a 6th gen max correct?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
No, if your keeping everything stock except adding subs, just get a $20 high-low converter. Go into any shop and ask for it, theyll know what it is. Just converts speaker wire to RCA cable.
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by thecritik
Just for Clarification ... This is the adapter I need to get the BUMP in my trunk without affecting the current audio setup in a 6th gen max correct?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW


So does that link to that adapter work with the 6th generations?
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Old 07-29-2005, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SWEETSOUND2001
That link is dead.

The site has expanded and moved to http://www.bcae1.com/ . THE BEST.... A MUST READ!
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Old 08-08-2005, 10:02 PM
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http://web.archive.org/web/200104102...ces/fiberfill/

information regarding the use of polyfill, and how much one should add to aquire different results.
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:14 PM
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Here is a link I found to an Accura site. This article has some good general info on Bose amplifiers. Take a look.

http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/DIY/bose_rr.htm
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Old 10-08-2005, 05:16 PM
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I saw a thread that show how to repairs bose amps but cant find it anymore, can anyone point me to the right thread?
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Old 10-23-2005, 11:45 AM
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I did not see any link which sells those under radio pockets when you replace the factory dual din radio with a single din radio.

For the 00-03 maxima its part # 99-7416
http://www.installer.com/kits/

Link to image
http://www.installer-data.com/item/d...php?it=99-7416
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Old 11-04-2005, 04:21 PM
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Here's some info on car audio that i ran across about the workings of some car audio stuff.


Tech briefs
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:15 AM
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AM/FM reception is poor with aftermarket radio installed.

Great news, there is a factory installed antenna amplifier on the 2002 maxima. Its a green/white with silver dots wire going into a connector block and on the other side is the black wiring into the factory two pin antenna connector. I used a length of wire and probed the green/white wire into the Sony radio harness ANT REM 1AMP line and presto, great reception. Removed the wire, poof back to horrible reception. Sorry for the crappy image quality, but there is that white foam wrapped block with the green/white wire. Patch that into the ANT REM wire and that should solve the problem of horrible am/fm reception on the 2002 nissan maxima.

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Old 11-19-2005, 12:45 PM
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what's good and not so good

I preface this by saying this is NOT my writeup but is from cam2Xrunner from the
bimmerforums. If you have any thought PM me direct or reply to the thread i have by this same title, but DO NOT reply in this thread, i'll make edits to this as needed/recommended.

Quite useful for all of those "what should i get". Please weigh in with any thoughts and/or additional info!



This list is my personal OPINION on what I consider how manufacturers and their products rank. I have used some of the products listed, but most of these brands/models listed is what I have came across from years of research on the subject, and/or from first hand listening.


Amps:

Audiophile

McIntosh
TRU
Audison VRx, LRx series
Brax
Milbert
Butler
Zapco C2K
Genesis Series 3
Sinfoni
Xetec P5 line ( www.xetec.de )

Audphile but a step down from the above
Genesis Profile Series
U.S. Amps Tube amps
Phass
Linear Power
PPI Art amps
DLS A series
U.S. Amps
Soundstream Reference, Class A
Helix
Xetec Gravity
Zapco Reference
Denon
Adcom
Diamond D7 and D9 amps (D7's can be had cheap right now, good amps)
Esoteric
Arc Audio CXL, XXK
Phoenix Gold Ti, ALso Older MS and Limited Production amps(Anniversary Editions, etc)
ADS
Phase Linear

Quality

JL Slash amps
PPI Powerclass (Pre DEI)
Elemental Designs (good warranty, underrated power too)
Diamond D5 and D3 (very cheap right now on ebay, good amps, esp. D5's, very flexible crossovers if you need onboard crossovers)
Arc Audio Kar
Phoenix Gold Tantrum
Memphis-Very compact
Alpine
Pioneer PRS (older line)
Orion-Pre DEI
XTant
MB Quart amps
Rockford Fosgate
Avionixx
MTX
Older Mobile ES Sony
Exile Audio, new company founded by former Phoenix Gold employees.
Xetec Xircuit and Vector Series amps

Value
MTX
Kicker
DEI
Clarion
Pioneer Amplifiers
Coustic
Crossfire
Infinity, and JBL amps (pretty mch same thing)
Hifonics


Poor
Audiobahn
Dual
Jensen
Boss
Volfenhag
American HiFi
Rockwood
Legacy
Kole
Pyramid
MA Audio
Kingwood
Newer Sony
Pyle
XPlore
Lanzar(Except Opti Drive amps. Those are pretty good actually)
Audiofonics
Rampage
Audiovox
New Soundstream
Phoenix Digital
Formula
Koiker
Nitro
Power Acoustik
Lightning Audio
Niche
Verge
Crunch

Next will be Speakers.

As I stated before, this is my OPINION Please do research heavily before you buy a certain product.

I am sure I have missed alot of brands, so if you think something should be represented here. Post it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Speakers: Every person has different listening tastes. Unfortuntely most of the stuff listed here you can't exactly go and audition somewhere. And if you could it would most likely be in a sound board and will sound alot different in an in-car environment anyways.

I always rec. wiring active if you have adequate processing, and amplification(one channel of power for each individual driver). BUT it's much easier to set up a passive component set. So results can differ.

If you have an amp that has flexible crossovers that include a bandpass then you can do the crossovers at the amp. Using a headunit with a 3 way crossover would be preffered as you will have more fine tuning capabiltiy. You can also use an electronic active crossover+eq with great results.

Some people prefer to get a component system that has passive crossovers. This can be good for the person that want's to run a 4 channel amp to power the front components and the sub(s) You can always go active afterwards.

Some of these options will vary and sound completely different. Some in the same group might sound better than another.

The most important thing is finding something that will work good in your application. Then installing it properly and tuning it properly. Plan on using an amplifier(s) for the speakers. Try to have at least 40-50 watts RMS per driver. If possible more. Alot of these speakers can handle a good amount of power. Some don't need that much. Just be sure to properly set the gains.

I plan on using about 150 watts rms to my mids, and about 75 watts rms to the tweeters.

Some if not most of these speakers are from home audio manufacturers but can be used in the car with great results. And in most cases these are some of the companys that make speakers for alot of the car audio offerings.

I know I am missing alot, but some good stuff to look into:

Audiophile

Seas Lotus Reference
Seas Excel
Rainbow
Focal Utopia, K2P
Morel
Dynaudio
Hiquphon tweeters
MB Quart QSD
Scan Speak
Alpine F1 Status (similar to Scan Speak Revelators, but tweaked for Alpine)
Arc ACS
DLS Iridium, UR
Beyma
Image Dynamics HLCD's
RS Audio
AVI
LCY
ACCUTON
Fountek
CDT HD, Eurosports and 07 model lineup.
Boston Z6
Diamond D9

Quality Passive Component systems Keep in mind, all these can be wired active.

MB Quart QSD
MB Quart PCE216 6.5" set Or PCE210 if you need 4" components. (also can be a nice 3 way active set with midbass addon)
JL XR
Alpine Type-X SPX-177R
Image Dynamics Chameleons
CDT EF, HD, they make slim mounting depth variants.
Elemental Designs eDi6500s eDi6000s are ok for the money.
Phoenix Gold TI 6 Elite (Morel)
Boston Pro Series
ADS
Exile Audio Components are pretty good for the money, not an audiophile speaker, but definitely good quality. VERY shallow mounting depth if you need it, and very lighweight too if you are building a race car and need evey weight of ounce shaved, but still want some tunes.
Diamond Hex

DIY Components
Mids: 7"
Seas CA18RNX, G18RNX - 55 each
DAYTON RS180S-8 - 33 each (deep driver though check clearance) Nice mid
Peerless HDS Exclusive
Adire Audio Extremis 6.8 99.00 each
For more choices and quick reviews, go here.
http://ldsg.snippets.org/sect-12-bass.php3#BASS6.5-
and of course www.diymobileaudio.com
Phaze Audio/PPI Tubedriver mids (check ebay)
Seas Lotus/Excel $ but awesome.




Tweeters:

LPG 25NFA (silk) 26NA(Aluminum) The aluminum is best suited for people that like sharper highs. These are 37 each.

Dayton Neo domes- 5.00 each
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=275-030
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=275-035

Dayton RS Tweeters(large outer diameter though)

Seas 27TBFC/G (H1212) (large outer diameter) 30.00 each

Vifa XT

MB Quart QTC25

Focal TN-51, TN-52

Hiquphon OW2 (99 each though)



Midrange:

Domes:
-Usher 9845 3" Textile
LPG 51AT(Aluminum), LPG 50FA(textile) 64 each
DLS UR2.5(-+75 bucks each), Iridium 3
DAYTON DC50F-8 2" 28.00 each

Cones:
Seas Excel W15
MB Quart QSD213
Vifa 10BGS aka MG10
Vifa M10
Audax HM100Z0
Vifa PL
Eton 4-300 hex

Remeber to check mounting depths, and plan on using a 1/2" to 3/4" baffle to mount the speaker to the door. That will give you some extra mounting depth. Also check clearance from the speaker to the door panel.

Most importantly, do as much research you can before deciding to buy. These are just certain things to get you looking in the right direction. There's alot of other good stuff out there, and there are 10X more bad stuff out there. Research is the key.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SUBS

When shopping for a subwoofer, you first need to do some planning on how you want to set up the install. The amount of subs, power rating, ohm configurations, enclosure size, and subwoofer size can make for alot of different variables.

You also need to consider your electrical system. If you're going to run over 400-600 watts rms, you should consider an upgraded alternator. (not to mention a stronger battery, and Big 2 upgrade)

These two links are good to check out before picking out a subwoofer.

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...;f=11;t=069893


Some subs are designed to work better in certain enclosures. There are purpose built subs that are made fro SPL. There are subs that are made purely for sound quality. Theres also "SQL" subs. These are sort of a mix of a SQ driver and a SPL driver.

SPL subs are generally designed to be installed in a large ported enclosure. SQ and SQL subs can typically be put in both with good results. Sealed typically yeilds better sound quality and accuracy, also with a sealed enclosure the amount of airspace needed is lessened. This can be good if you are trying to do a small or stealth enclosure.

One advantage of using a ported enclosure is that the same sub can get louder off of less power than the sub in the sealed enclosure. In most cases you give up some accuracy by going to a ported enclosure. But you can get very good results out of using a ported enclosure.

A similar install would be an Infinite Baffle install. AKA IB. This type of install also requires less power than a sealed enclosure and can yeild very good results too.

Infinite Baffle can be great for people that don't want to give up any space in their trunk. But space saving isn't the only reason to go this route. IB can sound very VERY good too if properly implemented.

If you do decide to do an IB install, you need to carefully pick a subwoofer that can be used in an IB install. Do some searching on the www.buwaldahybrids.com and www.talkaudio.uk forums. IB installs are very popular there and there's a ton of info on it.

When picking any sub/enclosure you need to take into consideration how much power you have avaialable. Some subs are more efficient than others, and work well off low power. Some require a certain amount of power to get moving. SPL subs typically require and work better off of more power. A sq sub is typically designed to work well off 100-400 watts rms.

Another subject worth bringing up is the use of different types of amplifiers. The two most common types are Class D and Class AB(there's also tube amps, class T, Class A and other types, but we won't go into those)

Class AB power is less efficient than class D. However class AB is prefered over class D for better sound quality. If you are going to do a sound quality sub install, and don't require more than400-500 watts rms, then you can probably get away with using class AB and your electrical system should be able to handle it. If you are more into SPL you can use a class D amp and a ported enclosure and get considerably louder than the sq install with the same draw on the electrical system. At some point you have to upgrade the alternator though.

A very big SPL or SQL install will require more power.


Here's some things to check out, be sure to do plenty of your own research before picking a sub.

TC Sounds TC2+/Soundsplinter RL-i www.oaudio.com www.soundsplinter.com These subs are known for great sound quality and having the capability of getting very loud. In a sealed enclosure 400+ watts rms should be used.

TC SOunds TC9/Soundsplinter RL-p SQL/SPL subs. These are also great subs. Send lots of power though

Image Dynamics IDQ, old design, but hasn't been changed for a reason. Great SQ subs. For ID on the internet go to www.sounddomain. Pretty efficient subs and don't need too much power. These subs work great in sealed or ported. 100-350 watts rms is all that's needed, the 12"s and the 15"s can handle 400-500 watts rms.

Image Dynamics ID, still a great sq sub, but designed to get louder than the IDQ's, 100-400 watts rms. The ID8V3 is also a great 8" sub.

Image Dynamics IDMAX, very popular SQL sub. Works well off 600-1,000 watts rms.

All Image Dynamics subs work well in IB installs.

Peerless XLS and XXLS. There is a home version and a car version. The car version has lower ohms. These also work great in freeair installs.

Diamond D6 sub great sub with 600+ wrms.

Arc Audio D series, very similar to IDQ

Arc Flatline, very nice SQL sub.

Dayton Audio Titanic, good SQL sub

Adire Audio makes good subs across their whole lineup. The Brahma is a popular sub, but very power hungry, needs over 1K watts rms.

RE Audio makes subs that cater to everyone, SE has good sq, and get's loud. XXX is a great SQL sub. RE MT is a dedicated SPL sub, handles lots of power.

Soundstream Exact's are nice SQ subs, and fairly inexspensive.

Digital Designs makes great subs, most of DD is designed for SPL, but very nice sounding subs though.

Elemental Designs- eD is very comparable to ID.

Treo makes good SPL subs.

Older PPI flatcone subs were really nice.

Illusion Audio made really nice SQ subs that are very shallow(but still require good airspace), they just recently went back into business.

If I think of more I'll add them later.
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Old 12-12-2005, 07:55 AM
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great news

Originally Posted by RR5
Great news, there is a factory installed antenna amplifier on the 2002 maxima. Its a green/white with silver dots wire going into a connector block and on the other side is the black wiring into the factory two pin antenna connector. I used a length of wire and probed the green/white wire into the Sony radio harness ANT REM 1AMP line and presto, great reception. Removed the wire, poof back to horrible reception. Sorry for the crappy image quality, but there is that white foam wrapped block with the green/white wire. Patch that into the ANT REM wire and that should solve the problem of horrible am/fm reception on the 2002 nissan maxima.

I was looking at that same wire and saw that it goes to the back of the factory harness which is all ready connected to the Sony's ANT REM wire but I still get lots of static while driving . . . and I all ready reversed the AM antenna adaptor for the diversity antenna.
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Old 12-13-2005, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ypl102
I was looking at that same wire and saw that it goes to the back of the factory harness which is all ready connected to the Sony's ANT REM wire but I still get lots of static while driving . . . and I all ready reversed the AM antenna adaptor for the diversity antenna.
Well jump the green wire from that block to the wires on your aftermarket receiver's harness and see if you get any better reception.
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:47 AM
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antenna power wire

I can see that may help if the original wire is broken inside the wire wrapping. . .

What I'm pointing out to you is that the jump you did is only needed if the green with silver dot wire (power into the antenna) is not connected between the factory harness and the aftermarket harness because if you look behind the factory harness plug, you WILL see THAT wire going in there which is plugged into the aftermarket harness and from there you take the blue wire(from Metra) and hook it up with the Sony's blue and white ANT REM(+12V when tuner turns on). A multimeter helped.
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Old 01-27-2006, 06:32 AM
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Does anyone know of a dvd player that is small enough to fit in the glove compartment of a 04?
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Old 02-28-2006, 01:40 PM
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95-96 DIY Bose Headunit repair

http://madchef.5u.com/maxima/bose/fixes.html

Many have had success following this step by step guide. It could save many a lot of money if they have "cd err" problems, or display problems with the Bose headunit.
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Old 05-20-2006, 02:13 AM
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I have to sing the absolute praises of the JL Audio CL441DSP. Known as the CleanSweep this is an absolute must for those that want to or have to keep their stock BOSE system. It is a digital signal processor that basically removes the crappy factory equalization and lets you control the level with a ****. It has a calibration mode that analyzes the signal and adjusts itself accordingly. I have the stock Bose HU, amp, and highs. I added a Kicker ZX400.1 sub amp to a Infinity DVC 12" and it ROCKS (THUMPS) and sounds good with all music (except country, how would I know?). If you can afford it this is the only way to go. Send that PAC line level converter back and get a JL Audio CleanSweep.

If you want to order where I ordered from reply or email ([email protected]) and I will send you the link the company is in PA. The cheapest I found this at retail stores was 399.00 on the Internet 349.99 and from MedTronics 299.99 and only 10 dollars shipping. You will NOT find it cheaper than 299.99 unless on ebaY!

The 'Dirty 30' - I have to post this message more than once. This unit is heaven sent, seriously. Does anyone know of something similar or is this the only unit.
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Old 08-22-2006, 04:25 PM
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Anyone out there know what size front door speakers I need for a 96 maxima.
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Old 08-26-2006, 01:08 PM
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anyone know the wiring for the 04+ maxima with bose?
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Old 09-28-2006, 03:12 PM
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anyone know any link to install aftermarket speakers both front and rear on a 96 non bose maxima?
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:05 PM
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These sites are very helpful...thanks to everybody for the links. I had a question of my own

I have a '03 Maxima that has the stock Navigation system and I wanted to change it to an aftermarket touch screen DVD/CD stereo system and I noticed that my A/C and heat are within the den so the ***** are apart of the system, so whenever I change the temperature from A/C to heat and vice-versa it shows up on the screen. So my first question is:

(1) If I switch to an aftermarket system, will I lose the controls for the A/C and heat? Or can whoever installs the new system be able to re-wire it so that it does work with the new system?

(2) What is the best aftermarket stereo system that gives you the best overall quality for your money?

If its confusing for anybody I can take pictures so that you can get a better understanding of what I am talking about.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-25-2006, 06:26 PM
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Speaker level

I was looking into putting a sub with amp in my 1996 maxima with the stock bose system. What i was wondering is how to connect the HU to the amp, are the speaker wires going to the back speakers low level or hi level. If there are any websites with this information please help me out.
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Old 11-02-2006, 02:20 PM
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hey guys new to the bored and i have just purchased a 95 gle with bose and i am wondering how i can add my alpine HU,AMP, and SUB with the least amount of work nessecary, i am not lazy i would just like to keep the bose speakers and maybe amp , but i dont wont to wire every speaker to the new HU thanks guys
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:19 AM
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I read the faq and coudl find my answer.
How do you all get the double din decks to fit and replace a bose headunit. I know you have to buy the trim ring from nissan but crutchfiedl simply says it won't fit.

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Old 11-20-2006, 08:16 AM
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Hey, I'm trying to install a PAC-NIS adapter in my wife's 05 Maxima. I'm also installing a UNI-Pod cable which will provide the Ipod with power.

I need to know where the constant and switched 12V wires are. I just need to know the easiest/quickest/best places to tap in would be. Google isn't helping me out much, and I don't have the post count to search yet.

Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2006, 02:35 PM
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Firewall Passthrough for Amp Power Cable

what is the preferred method for getting an amp power cable through the firewall on a 5th gen? i tried drilling a hole without success...thx
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:59 PM
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Got some good advice from studman. I ended up getting the wire through the same hole as the hood release cable...I stuck a screwdriver through the rubber boot/grommet from under the dash, duct taped the wire to the screwdriver, and pulled the wire through from inside the fender well.
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Old 12-14-2006, 09:36 PM
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does any1 know how to wire up a micrivision screen? or wire a screen, in dash? HELP!! i alreayd baught it but i dont know how to connect it...
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Old 12-15-2006, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RuSSiAnMax415
does any1 know how to wire up a micrivision screen? or wire a screen, in dash? HELP!! i alreayd baught it but i dont know how to connect it...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=286511
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Old 12-24-2006, 09:58 AM
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2002 max w/stock navigation.....
anyone ever replace the stock headunit without affecting the navi???
my bose amp crapped out on me and I wanna put a whole new aftermarket system in...including headunit...I figured I might lose the voice guidance but someone mentioned that you will lose the navi if u disconnect the radio...
anyone try to do what I wanna do?
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Old 01-19-2007, 10:52 AM
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OK, I have scanned through and done a search. ARe there any special tricks or order to the removal of the center console, shifter trip, and cup holder area on 03 I35 before I try to rip into it to hid my iPod cable?
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Old 01-19-2007, 10:21 PM
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If all else fails, you might want to pick up this from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INFIN...spagenameZWDVW It is the factory service manual for the Infiniti I35 2000 to 2004 and that'll have info on removing what you need. The auction is ending soon though.

Chris
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:42 PM
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problem with the bose system.

so today i swaped out an old six disk bose for a pioneer HU. When i hooked everything up it worked except for the left rear speaker. I just asumed it was broken and i hadent noticed yet. when i put it all back to gether the whole left side stoped makeing sound. I used a pac oem1 to tone the signal down. I knew how to adjust it so its not that i didnt turn it up. The lfet side makes very little soudn but its there. any ideas on whats wrong?

I know "the pac oem1 sucks, just bypass the amps" I just dont have tiem to do it. nor do i think im good enough with the sound system to do it.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:53 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Theblacktape
so today i swaped out an old six disk bose for a pioneer HU. When i hooked everything up it worked except for the left rear speaker. I just asumed it was broken and i hadent noticed yet. when i put it all back to gether the whole left side stoped makeing sound. I used a pac oem1 to tone the signal down. I knew how to adjust it so its not that i didnt turn it up. The lfet side makes very little soudn but its there. any ideas on whats wrong?

I know "the pac oem1 sucks, just bypass the amps" I just dont have tiem to do it. nor do i think im good enough with the sound system to do it.
Get a digital multimeter and test for continuity from the receiver to each left speaker. What you have to do is probe the wire for the left speaker behind the receiver and probe the wiring at the speaker. The DMM sends a signal and if you hear a tone, you'll know the connection from the receiver to the speakers are good. After that, I'd replace or swap the left speakers with the right side speakers. Good luck.
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:33 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by kpr10is
Putting an aftermarket radio on stock bose speakers: This applies to any generation maxima, and #4 applies to 4th gen and up.

Your factory Bose head unit sends an unamplified audio signal to the Bose amps. So you want to replicate this as close as possible for the best sq, in theory. There are a few options:
1) You can wire it up as a normal head unit without any Bose adapters, and have a small risk of burning up the Bose amp(s).
2) You can buy the $50 PAC or Scosche adapter, such as the one here
4th gen and up: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7pnyu0E...51&I=142C4NN03
3rd gen: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7pnyu0E...51&I=142C4NN02
3) You can wire the deck's preouts to the wiring harness in the dash, which will send an unamplified signal to the Bose amps. You have front and rear preouts. Each of those has a left (white) and right (red). So youd plug in RCA ends to the front and rear preouts, leaving a few inches of wire for you to play with. For the front left RCA, there will be 2 single wires inside it. Wire those to white and white/black. The front right, wire those to gray and gray/black. Do the same for the rears, Rear left will be the green and green/black, and Rear right will be purple and purple/black.
4) You can buy the Metra 70-7551 for 4th gen and up, or 70-1764 for 3rd gen (which is usually hard to find locally) which will already have all of Step #3 above done for you, so you can just plug stuff in.
http://www.metraonline.com/i/METRAHANDOUT_2005.pdf
Page 25 of 36 is a pic of both the Metra 70-7551 and 70-1764.

If you need your radio installed asap, the most cost effective way is Step #3. But if you can find the 70-7551 harness, or have time to order it online, it will probably save you some headache. Those are the easiest, most cost effective methods of this installation.

Caution: If the voltage of your preouts isnt a decent amount, you might want to avoid steps 3 or 4 and go with step 2. Low voltage preouts combined with step 3 or 4 will equate to your Bose speakers not getting loud once installed.

Good luck.
-Kevin
This is one of the most helpful and thorough posts I've found on the issue of replacing a Bose head unit. However, I'm still a little confused. What are the advantages and disadvantages of going with #2 versus #4? Crutchfield recommends you buy the $40 Scosche part from #2. Is there a reason to do this, when you could probably save money and go with #4? Does #2 correct voltage to what the Bose is expecting to see? Does #4?

I spoke with the local stereo shop and was told that they have seen so many problems with Bose HUs dying, and the salesman recommended a specific Pioneer that had 4V output versus most other models which had maybe 2 volts? I believe he said this helped since Bose / factory premium audio uses 2 ohm speakers versus most systems using 4-6 ohm speakers. I'm assuming also that the current Bose HU outputs 4 volts. The salesman told me most aftermarket units output ~2 volts I believe. I'm not sure whether they were going to install anything like either #2 or #4--that was my first stop after deciding I needed to replace the Bose and I hadn't done any research yet and thought it would be a simple remove and replace operation.

From reading the above, I'm thinking that if you go with option #2, the $40 Scosche either sends a 4V output that the Bose amp is expecting, or has a variable adjustment that allows you to set the output to 4 volts (those adjustment ***** have to do something). So if that's true and you used the Scosche, then any head unit should work fine. I'm also thinking that the Scosche takes *amplified* audio out from the head unit, and removes the amplification?

From looking at the pictures of #4, it looks to be a simple wire harness type device that is not changing voltages or current. Therefore it looks like you are taking pre-out (unamplified) output from the head unit (do all head units provide this, or is this something you must look for?) and simply providing a clean wiring harness for you to hook it up to the Bose amp. If the head unit is providing a lower voltage than the Bose HU used (and therefore lower than what the Bose amp is expecting to see) this would cause problems. So in this case one should either buy a HU with 4V output or use the Scosche above. I don't know if any of the previous 2 paragraphs is true--that's just my interpretation of them.

If the above is true, I'd probably personally go with #2 and a 4V-outputting-HU just because it eliminates another part that could go bad. Also, the price premium for the 4V Pioneer HU was basically equal to the $40 cost of the Scosche.
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Old 05-10-2007, 11:52 PM
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For future reference: DO NOT POST QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD. THIS IS ONLY FOR FAQ/LINKS. I know our moderator here hasn't cleaned out this specific thread in a while, but questions need to be posted in specific threads.

But Ill answer the above post since you wrote a lot of detailed valid questions, unlike the usual n00b post, asking 'which head unit should i get.'

The Bose head unit is unamplified, aka low level. The '4V' that the shop was referring to, is in regards to the RCA preouts of an aftermarket head unit. High level output has nothing to do with the 4V rating. Method #2 uses the amplified, or 'high-level' signal coming out of the head unit, which is usually around 50 watts x4. Therefore, your last couple sentences of your post are backwards. The best bet is to go with a 4V head unit with method #4, because the 4V signal from the new head unit's low level output (preouts) will wire directly to the Bose amp with that 7551 harness. The Bose amps are used to seeing a low level, but by doing method #2, you are using the high level outputs from the head unit and in a way converting them to low level, and the Scosche adapter would simply be one extra part that could go bad. Crutchfield recommends the Scosche part because it will work with every single head unit they sell, because 99% of head units have high level output; whereas not all head units have 2 sets of preouts to use for the 7551 harness.

Not sure if anything got lost in translation, and its not really worth repeating what the shop told you anyway, but he was telling the truth when saying the 4V will help the Bose amp. The higher the voltage going into the Bose amp, the louder your system will get, and the head units with lower voltage wont even make your Bose speakers play as loud as they did with the stock head unit. So he wasnt bullsh!tting you, just ask him which wiring harness he is using to make sure theyre doing it right, and go for it.
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Old 05-12-2007, 09:13 AM
  #77  
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Old 05-26-2007, 12:27 AM
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Looking to buy new audio setup??? Check here first. >>>>>>http://slumz.boxden.com/showthread.php?t=419293<<<<<<< These guys are very knowledgeable when it comes to car audio. They're some surprising brands in there.
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Old 05-26-2007, 08:56 AM
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That thread is too funny. If you want to discuss the lack of knowledge shared there make a thread, this is not the place for it.
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:42 AM
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http://www.installdr.com/

was a good site for helping me a little, BUT my maxima DOES have Bose and I can't seem to find any documentation on installing my flip out into my Maxima with Bose
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