Need trunk enclosure help!
Need trunk enclosure help!
Ok…I need help. I want to install 2 –12 inch Pioneer free air speakers. I would like to place it on a front board that will be in the trunk against the back seat, and I want to enclose the area with another board to kind of like enclose the space. I’ll put a piece of clear Plexiglas so you can see the speakers. Does anyone have a temple or have and ideas for making a temple for the trunk? The two side of the trunk is going to be hard, also how do you think it will sound? Any help would be will appreciated!!
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Well there is just one problem. The install you describe, "I want to enclose the area with another board to kind of like enclose the space," is a box install. Not free air. So use subs designs to go in a box. I know you probably chose free air because they are the cheapest. Some free air subs will work in an enclosure, or they all will, but maybe not work well. What year is your maxima? That will tell us which 'template' you need. Then we will work on the sound quality you want. Do you want lots of boom, or clean, accurate attack and smooth roll off. Or a trade-off.
Originally posted by jmax
Well there is just one problem. The install you describe, "I want to enclose the area with another board to kind of like enclose the space," is a box install. Not free air. So use subs designs to go in a box. I know you probably chose free air because they are the cheapest. Some free air subs will work in an enclosure, or they all will, but maybe not work well. What year is your maxima? That will tell us which 'template' you need. Then we will work on the sound quality you want. Do you want lots of boom, or clean, accurate attack and smooth roll off. Or a trade-off.
Well there is just one problem. The install you describe, "I want to enclose the area with another board to kind of like enclose the space," is a box install. Not free air. So use subs designs to go in a box. I know you probably chose free air because they are the cheapest. Some free air subs will work in an enclosure, or they all will, but maybe not work well. What year is your maxima? That will tell us which 'template' you need. Then we will work on the sound quality you want. Do you want lots of boom, or clean, accurate attack and smooth roll off. Or a trade-off.
Originally posted by SMX
Clean and accurate is what I'm looking for, dont need all that boom, my max is a 96. What the next step? Thanks
Clean and accurate is what I'm looking for, dont need all that boom, my max is a 96. What the next step? Thanks
don't know for sure what the doctrine on free air subs are now, but back in the day (which I'd say still holds true) you need to completely seal the trunk from the rest of the car in order to get a good sound. with free air, you are using the trunk as an enclosure, therefore the baffle board and the entire trunk needs to be sealed from the cabin. this is done so the wave produced by the cone moving forward is not cancelled by the cones rear movement. without having it totally sealed it will sound like you have the sub playing with no box at all.
Originally posted by ispeed
\
don't know for sure what the doctrine on free air subs are now, but back in the day (which I'd say still holds true) you need to completely seal the trunk from the rest of the car in order to get a good sound. with free air, you are using the trunk as an enclosure, therefore the baffle board and the entire trunk needs to be sealed from the cabin. this is done so the wave produced by the cone moving forward is not cancelled by the cones rear movement. without having it totally sealed it will sound like you have the sub playing with no box at all.
\
don't know for sure what the doctrine on free air subs are now, but back in the day (which I'd say still holds true) you need to completely seal the trunk from the rest of the car in order to get a good sound. with free air, you are using the trunk as an enclosure, therefore the baffle board and the entire trunk needs to be sealed from the cabin. this is done so the wave produced by the cone moving forward is not cancelled by the cones rear movement. without having it totally sealed it will sound like you have the sub playing with no box at all.
Originally posted by SMX
Clean and accurate is what I'm looking for, dont need all that boom, my max is a 96. What the next step? Thanks
Clean and accurate is what I'm looking for, dont need all that boom, my max is a 96. What the next step? Thanks
new idea?
Originally posted by ispeed
\
don't know for sure what the doctrine on free air subs are now, but back in the day (which I'd say still holds true) you need to completely seal the trunk from the rest of the car in order to get a good sound. with free air, you are using the trunk as an enclosure, therefore the baffle board and the entire trunk needs to be sealed from the cabin. this is done so the wave produced by the cone moving forward is not cancelled by the cones rear movement. without having it totally sealed it will sound like you have the sub playing with no box at all.
\
don't know for sure what the doctrine on free air subs are now, but back in the day (which I'd say still holds true) you need to completely seal the trunk from the rest of the car in order to get a good sound. with free air, you are using the trunk as an enclosure, therefore the baffle board and the entire trunk needs to be sealed from the cabin. this is done so the wave produced by the cone moving forward is not cancelled by the cones rear movement. without having it totally sealed it will sound like you have the sub playing with no box at all.
I have always wonder if anyone has tried this...
Since the trunk is at least 18 cu ft, why not use the trunk as the enclosure. Let me expand. Why can't you put a few port holes into the board that holds the rear speakers? Can this board be removed from the car? This way, you can package the speakers so that it will look hidden and not have to worry about tight enclosures and all.
Isn't port enclosures more efficient anyways?
What do you guys think?
Re: new idea?
Originally posted by psyclotran
I have always wonder if anyone has tried this...
Since the trunk is at least 18 cu ft, why not use the trunk as the enclosure. Let me expand. Why can't you put a few port holes into the board that holds the rear speakers? Can this board be removed from the car? This way, you can package the speakers so that it will look hidden and not have to worry about tight enclosures and all.
Isn't port enclosures more efficient anyways?
What do you guys think?
I have always wonder if anyone has tried this...
Since the trunk is at least 18 cu ft, why not use the trunk as the enclosure. Let me expand. Why can't you put a few port holes into the board that holds the rear speakers? Can this board be removed from the car? This way, you can package the speakers so that it will look hidden and not have to worry about tight enclosures and all.
Isn't port enclosures more efficient anyways?
What do you guys think?
18 cuft is to large. Check the specs on the speakers. Most of the 12" need about 2 cuft. you can deviate about +/- 20% but more or less than that will degrade sound quality. You can do it if you seal the trunk from the rest of the car but a box is better.
or you could just buy half a dozen 12s that use 3cu ft each, and seal and brace the hell out of the trunk like me... then throw a few firing into your rear seat, and some in your rear deck and power the **** out of them.
Kaboom.
Kaboom.
Re: Re: new idea?
12s are too large. I rather have 10s or 8s. The bass is tighter and faster. Now I need to figure out how to use 18 cu ft of volume.
Originally posted by theMax
Ported enclosures are more efficient but not as accurate. They are louder but not as clear as sealed. Ported are better for rap/dance/bass not for rock/classical.
18 cuft is to large. Check the specs on the speakers. Most of the 12" need about 2 cuft. you can deviate about +/- 20% but more or less than that will degrade sound quality. You can do it if you seal the trunk from the rest of the car but a box is better.
Ported enclosures are more efficient but not as accurate. They are louder but not as clear as sealed. Ported are better for rap/dance/bass not for rock/classical.
18 cuft is to large. Check the specs on the speakers. Most of the 12" need about 2 cuft. you can deviate about +/- 20% but more or less than that will degrade sound quality. You can do it if you seal the trunk from the rest of the car but a box is better.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: new idea?
Originally posted by psyclotran
I have always wonder if anyone has tried this...
Since the trunk is at least 18 cu ft, why not use the trunk as the enclosure. Let me expand. Why can't you put a few port holes into the board that holds the rear speakers? Can this board be removed from the car? This way, you can package the speakers so that it will look hidden and not have to worry about tight enclosures and all.
Isn't port enclosures more efficient anyways?
What do you guys think?
I have always wonder if anyone has tried this...
Since the trunk is at least 18 cu ft, why not use the trunk as the enclosure. Let me expand. Why can't you put a few port holes into the board that holds the rear speakers? Can this board be removed from the car? This way, you can package the speakers so that it will look hidden and not have to worry about tight enclosures and all.
Isn't port enclosures more efficient anyways?
What do you guys think?
Re: Re: Re: new idea?
Originally posted by psyclotran
12s are too large. I rather have 10s or 8s. The bass is tighter and faster. Now I need to figure out how to use 18 cu ft of volume.
12s are too large. I rather have 10s or 8s. The bass is tighter and faster. Now I need to figure out how to use 18 cu ft of volume.
You could cut a hole in the back deck and lay the speakers right there. I've done it with 6x9's. You need somthing to cut through the sheet metal.
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