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The BOSE Radio/Speaker Replacement thread

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Old 05-30-2015, 01:42 PM
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my 98 maxima stereo system

I had my radio on while driving home. My sub and amp were on along with the speakers then the only thing on was the amp. I replaced the head unit, changed the fuses, checked the speakers. No sound from them. I disconnected the amp in sub from my trunk. What could be the problem I just found out there are amps with the speakers should I remove them?
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:14 PM
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Display on Bose stereo is intermittent

Hi all:

For the first time in the twenty years I've owned my 95 Maxima SE with stock Bose system, the display went blank after I started the car. Later it went on again till I shut off the car. I'm pretty sure I can figure out how to remove it from a you tube video I saw but has anyone used Factory Car Stereo Repair in Longwood FL? I read the link about replacing resistor R510 but don't want to risk further damage by attempting the repair myself. I've always been happy with the system so my preference is to have it repaired. Failing that, I would need to turn the job over to a car stereo shop and perhaps replace everything. Any advice appreciated. Thanks

Last edited by Will92; 06-03-2015 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 06-08-2015, 10:51 AM
  #1123  
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Originally Posted by androenthusiast
Ordered the PAC ROEM-NIS2 yesterday given the recommendations earlier in this thread and the stellar reviews. I will post back after the weekend.

My current setup is starting to sound better. I wonder if there is a burn-in phenomenon at play here. Anyhow, now that I have the ability to test both setups, I will be able to make a more informed call on whether pre-amp outputs are better than speaker outputs with a Line Output Controller.

BTW, I also realized that one can buy a Line Driver which connects to the pre-amp outputs and increases the voltage (from 4v, for example, to say 6v/8v). If all else fails, I might test this route as well.
Finally got around to installing the PAC ROEM-NIS2 and, oh boy, what a world of difference. The audio system is back to it's old glory. In fact, it can get uncomfortably loud past the 60-70% volume mark and starts to distort - something I guess I can fix by adjusting (down) the gain on the PAC unit. Note that my factory-installed (Clarion) unit could never reach this level of loudness.

So, my conclusion (for my Maxima 2000 SE) is that even with 4v pre-outs, the factory amp doesn't get the signal level it is expecting resulting in gross underperformance. An LOC is the way to go.

Thanks DJ for the inputs and the OP for staring this thread. I guess I will be keeping my Maxima for a few more years :-).
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:27 AM
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:28 PM
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Just wanted to update my experience with replacing the HU on my 03 and keeping the rest of the BOSE system. I did change from a HU with a 2.5V output to a 4V output connected to the RCA outputs of the receiver. It did make it a bit louder but still on some songs that were were not that loud it still was not sufficient. I replaced it with the high level harness and it made a BIG difference! The installation guy was even really impressed with how good it sounded and they trim the output down so that there was no distortion at all. So if you are doing the same thing don't worry that you will lose any sound quality by going with the high level output harness.
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:51 AM
  #1126  
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I just bought an 02 that has 4 Bose door speakers and to my eye, no subs on the rear deck. It came with a junk Boss head unit and the whole system sounds aweful. Is that because the speakers arent being driven well by the Boss (1ohm vs 4ohm)

I will likely get a new head unit, but I assume I will hit the same problem with the speakers??
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:03 AM
  #1127  
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Hmm.

What we need to do is determine what your car should be.

1. Is it that your car originally had Bose (hence the speakers in the doors), and the sub and HU was removed?

2. Is it that your car is originally NON-Bose (hence the missing subs), and someone added the Bose speakers?

Either way, you have a hybrid, and you should work towards putting it back to where it originally was and should be (so the Bose or non-Bose wiring and amps mate properly), then see how it sounds.
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:07 AM
  #1128  
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If I had to guess I would say the bose were added, what is a good way to find out what was OEM to my car?
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:12 AM
  #1129  
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You mentioned no Bose sub.

Is there a black rectangular Bose amp mounted underneath your rear deck? Look in the trunk and look up. If no amp, are there any loose wiring harnesses? Does your rear deck cover have a rectangular grille/ cutout with a Bose logo on it?

Those are tell-tale, and the least likely for someone to change if they remove the Bose system. The harnesses especially, should still be there if Bose.

If certain non-Bose, the first thing I would do is get 4 aftermarket 4ohm speakers and replace the Bose speakers in the doors. At the same time, double check how the HU is wired up.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:02 AM
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I have nothing on the back deck, looks like I am selling my speakers
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:06 PM
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Hey guys got a question that belongs in this thread..

I'm driving a 98 Maxima GLE,
I've installed a JVC KD-A735BT single din deck, ordered the wiring harness from my local professional sound system installation business and like this post says i'm getting some whining through my speakers as well as i can hear clicking, which i'm going to assume is the stock bose amp flickering on/off.


will attempt to use multimeter and adjust ground a bit and post results but
does anyone have any suggestions for the amp flickering?
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:16 PM
  #1132  
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Whine sounds like a poor or improper ground.

How - specifically - did you wire the HU?
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:33 PM
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I'm just off to work now but i can post pictures of my wiring later tonight early tm morning, if that's what you were curious about.
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:36 PM
  #1134  
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Don't need to see pictures. Which harness did you use? Which wires did you connect where? How is the amp turn on wire connected?
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Old 09-01-2015, 01:00 PM
  #1135  
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i fixed the wiring issue you were correct and i made separate grounds for all 3, everything seems to be working nicely, i don't hear any whine from the alternator.
my next issue now i cannot seem to figure out is the volume of my speakers, they seem to be awfully low i have to crank up volume on both my ipod and HU for it to reach a cruising level of loud :P

any obvious reason for the volume to be so low?
I have two infiniti 6x9 in the doors and i left the stock bose in the trunk, but even they aren't as loud as they were with the stock HU radio.

Last edited by Jamie Bolus; 09-01-2015 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:53 AM
  #1136  
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Originally Posted by Jamie Bolus
i fixed the wiring issue you were correct and i made separate grounds for all 3, everything seems to be working nicely, i don't hear any whine from the alternator.
my next issue now i cannot seem to figure out is the volume of my speakers, they seem to be awfully low i have to crank up volume on both my ipod and HU for it to reach a cruising level of loud :P

any obvious reason for the volume to be so low?
I have two infiniti 6x9 in the doors and i left the stock bose in the trunk, but even they aren't as loud as they were with the stock HU radio.
The correct way is that grounds should be combined - but if you have no noise, should be fine.

This exact thread talks about low volume vs preout voltage vs specific harness and wiring method to use. Chances are, one of these factors was not considered.
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:46 AM
  #1137  
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need help please

I have a 2001 Nissan maxima se 20th anniversary edition with the 7 speaker bose sound system it sounds great just one problem its all stock which I think is fine but the sub in the back window stops working when ever it wants how can I fix this
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:51 AM
  #1138  
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Common problem. Search this site. There's a repair procedure, or you could replace it with a junkyard or classifieds part.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:40 AM
  #1139  
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ok, I need help. I am installing a parrot asteroid smart in my 02 max with bose. When I first turned car on, head unit would not come on, then I connected the antenna, which I did not know grounded the unit. The Parrot did power up then. However, it sounds horrible. Low volume, and I swear it sounds like only the front speakers are putting out sound.


I used the 70-7051 harness, and the parrot has 6v preamp outputs, should that not be powerful enough?


Also, for the grounding, I just connected the black ground wire of the head unit to the ground wire of the harness. Is this my problem? Should I instead connect both grounds to the chassis?
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:28 AM
  #1140  
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Originally Posted by Govols83
ok, I need help. I am installing a parrot asteroid smart in my 02 max with bose. When I first turned car on, head unit would not come on, then I connected the antenna, which I did not know grounded the unit. The Parrot did power up then. However, it sounds horrible. Low volume, and I swear it sounds like only the front speakers are putting out sound.


I used the 70-7051 harness, and the parrot has 6v preamp outputs, should that not be powerful enough?


Also, for the grounding, I just connected the black ground wire of the head unit to the ground wire of the harness. Is this my problem? Should I instead connect both grounds to the chassis?
Do you mean 70-7551?

I would definitely chassis ground it in addition to harness ground.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:33 AM
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Yes, I meant 70-7551 sorry about that, lol.


Would not using chassis grounds be the cause of the low volume, distortion?


I would think 6v pre outs would be sufficient for the metra harness right?
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:43 AM
  #1142  
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Originally Posted by Govols83
Would not using chassis grounds be the cause of the low volume, distortion?
Possibly. But I think you need to try it out, to resolve your specific issue, instead of spending time inquiring online.

Originally Posted by Govols83
I would think 6v pre outs would be sufficient for the metra harness right?
Yes, should be.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:34 PM
  #1143  
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Well, I fixed all of my grounds. Sound quality improved slightly, but overall loudness and quality is nowhere near the level of the factory deck. Some songs sound alright, but bass is very weak, and when I turn it up loud enough that bass is louder it sounds like total crap.

I just don't get it, I thought for sure the 6v preamps of the Asteroid Smart would be plenty. I guess I will just have to bite the bullet and buy a LOC. Since I already have the 70-7551, would the scosche be the best way to go?


Oh, and to make matters worse, I can't get my aswc-1 to work for my steering wheel controls either
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:56 AM
  #1144  
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They could just be very low quality preouts. But could still also be a wiring or configuration issue.

Try an LOC. Any will do.

Sounds like a pro installer would have saved you the troubles!
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
They could just be very low quality preouts. But could still also be a wiring or configuration issue.

Try an LOC. Any will do.

Sounds like a pro installer would have saved you the troubles!

Could be a possibility with the preouts. The last time I used a "pro installer" on my 01 with Bose, they used the metra 70-7550, which reading this thread is apparently a big no no, but funny thing is it seemed to work fine for the 6 years it was installed
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:13 AM
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It's not a no-no. You're welcome to do that instead of LOC
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:46 AM
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Thanks for the help, btw. You know, I'm beginning to think that the LOC might be the way to go for most people. It seems like the 7551 only works with select pre outs to me. I will report back whenever I get the LOC installed
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:55 AM
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Installed the Pac Roem-Nis2 and wow!!!!! I never thought the BOSE system could sound so good. It can get insanely loud without any distortion. OEM subwoofer has new life. In my opinion, the Pac unit is the way to go no matter what head unit you choose.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:58 AM
  #1149  
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Originally Posted by Govols83
Installed the Pac Roem-Nis2 and wow!!!!! I never thought the BOSE system could sound so good. It can get insanely loud without any distortion. OEM subwoofer has new life. In my opinion, the Pac unit is the way to go no matter what head unit you choose.
Yep, a new HU breathes new life into the Bose system.

Nice job, glad it worked out for you.
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Old 01-04-2016, 04:52 AM
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I just replaced the Bose stereo in my 2002 maxima. I bypassed the amp by running new speakers and hooking them up directly to my new stereo. Now the dash lights don't work. I checked all the fuses and they look good. As far as I can tell, everything else is working. Any ideas?
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:28 AM
  #1151  
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You checked all 3 fuseboxes? 2 under the hood and 1 under the dash?
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:52 AM
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I checked the one under the dash and the one by the batter under the hood. I'm not sure how to check the fuses on the other side of the hood.

Last edited by jwacker; 01-04-2016 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 01-05-2016, 08:31 AM
  #1153  
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Originally Posted by jwacker
I checked the one under the dash and the one by the batter under the hood. I'm not sure how to check the fuses on the other side of the hood.
It's has relays primarily. Don't recall if any fuses in there.

In any case, keep checking. Something blew or wasn't wired right.
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Old 01-05-2016, 05:18 PM
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Well guys I got a Boss system (
this one this one
) and got to wiring it up with the adapter kit. It doesn't have a dimmer or illumination wire and works great even with the backup camera - until I turn the lights on. Then everything dies. Is anyone else having this problem or am I the only one that can't seem to wire a simple stereo?


Side note, my screws holding the Bose system on were tightened to "Scrape your drawers" tightness. I had to drill the dang things out!





EDIT: Well guess what? You probably figured that faulty wiring can cause my problem but I can now add that if you let the battery run down while playing with the radio during install and turn the lights on the same thing will happen. Duh.
Charged the battery and all is well. Works 100% now. One too many late nights I guess!

Last edited by Infiniti2000I30tUgh; 01-05-2016 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:20 AM
  #1155  
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Originally Posted by Infiniti2000I30tUgh
Side note, my screws holding the Bose system on were tightened to "Scrape your drawers" tightness. I had to drill the dang things out!
This is common and theres a known trick for it.

Originally Posted by Infiniti2000I30tUgh
EDIT: Well guess what? You probably figured that faulty wiring can cause my problem but I can now add that if you let the battery run down while playing with the radio during install and turn the lights on the same thing will happen. Duh.
Charged the battery and all is well. Works 100% now. One too many late nights I guess!
Yea, that'll do it!

Standard practice is to disconnect the battery when doing any electrical work.
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
This is common and theres a known trick for it.

What's the trick?
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:53 AM
  #1157  
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Use a screwgun with an impact setting. Gradually increasing the impact strength, TIGHTEN until you hear a click, then loosen. Comes right out.
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
Use a screwgun with an impact setting. Gradually increasing the impact strength, TIGHTEN until you hear a click, then loosen. Comes right out.

Haha, that's a good idea. I tried the old "Tighten first, then loosen" with a screwdriver and it just stripped out. Would have been a good excuse to buy a new tool. Dang it

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:16 AM
  #1159  
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Np. The key is using your weight to make sure the bit is held in there, and let the drill do the work.
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Old 04-07-2016, 05:50 PM
  #1160  
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My '96 GLE Bose head unit died. I have access to a 4th gen non-Bose head unit. Does anyone know if I can stick an OEM non-Bose head unit into my '96 GLE? Thanks.
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