Safe to Give 2500watts rms to 2 RL-p15's?
04-14-2008, 09:49 PM
#1
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Safe to Give 2500watts rms to 2 RL-p15's?
Or should I just go with the 1500watts RMS. i don't wanna F-up the speakers becasue I overpowered them, but i can't find a 2000watt rms rated amp..
04-14-2008, 11:28 PM
#4
reading > you
i agree with slickrick though, you dont need 2500 watts.
04-15-2008, 02:08 AM
#6
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Each of those subs is rated 500-1000 watts rms. i would assume that the peak is around 2000 watts since it is not specified and i am unaware of any under or overrating of the speakers. G
eneral rule of thumb is you can give 3/4 of the peak or 2x the rms. so essentially max wattage per subwoofer would be 1500 watts. you only want to do that if the amp you have permits it and you have no alternative or if you really want to push the system.
I recommend that buy 2 1000 watt ampifiers, one for each subwoofer. I say this because you will not find a high qaulity enough amplifier thats not rediculous in price thats around 2000 watts. If you look at JL and Alpine, their largest d block is 1000 watts rms. You are better off buying quality than ****, but this is just a rule of thumb that i follow. Also, you want to buy the dvc 2 ohm, essentially it is more efficent and could hit harder, yadda yadda, so i heave heard through the grape vine, i bought dual 2 ohms on each of my type r's.
Also, box type will play in how clean/sloppy or quiet/loud they are. Ported or sealed? If you have more questions, post em meng. O yeah, take a look at the recommended volume sizes for the subs. They are quite large, you are going to have a big box.
eneral rule of thumb is you can give 3/4 of the peak or 2x the rms. so essentially max wattage per subwoofer would be 1500 watts. you only want to do that if the amp you have permits it and you have no alternative or if you really want to push the system.
I recommend that buy 2 1000 watt ampifiers, one for each subwoofer. I say this because you will not find a high qaulity enough amplifier thats not rediculous in price thats around 2000 watts. If you look at JL and Alpine, their largest d block is 1000 watts rms. You are better off buying quality than ****, but this is just a rule of thumb that i follow. Also, you want to buy the dvc 2 ohm, essentially it is more efficent and could hit harder, yadda yadda, so i heave heard through the grape vine, i bought dual 2 ohms on each of my type r's.
Also, box type will play in how clean/sloppy or quiet/loud they are. Ported or sealed? If you have more questions, post em meng. O yeah, take a look at the recommended volume sizes for the subs. They are quite large, you are going to have a big box.
04-15-2008, 10:05 AM
#8
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Each of those subs is rated 500-1000 watts rms. i would assume that the peak is around 2000 watts since it is not specified and i am unaware of any under or overrating of the speakers. G
eneral rule of thumb is you can give 3/4 of the peak or 2x the rms. so essentially max wattage per subwoofer would be 1500 watts. you only want to do that if the amp you have permits it and you have no alternative or if you really want to push the system.
I recommend that buy 2 1000 watt ampifiers, one for each subwoofer. I say this because you will not find a high qaulity enough amplifier thats not rediculous in price thats around 2000 watts. If you look at JL and Alpine, their largest d block is 1000 watts rms. You are better off buying quality than ****, but this is just a rule of thumb that i follow. Also, you want to buy the dvc 2 ohm, essentially it is more efficent and could hit harder, yadda yadda, so i heave heard through the grape vine, i bought dual 2 ohms on each of my type r's.
Also, box type will play in how clean/sloppy or quiet/loud they are. Ported or sealed? If you have more questions, post em meng. O yeah, take a look at the recommended volume sizes for the subs. They are quite large, you are going to have a big box.
eneral rule of thumb is you can give 3/4 of the peak or 2x the rms. so essentially max wattage per subwoofer would be 1500 watts. you only want to do that if the amp you have permits it and you have no alternative or if you really want to push the system.
I recommend that buy 2 1000 watt ampifiers, one for each subwoofer. I say this because you will not find a high qaulity enough amplifier thats not rediculous in price thats around 2000 watts. If you look at JL and Alpine, their largest d block is 1000 watts rms. You are better off buying quality than ****, but this is just a rule of thumb that i follow. Also, you want to buy the dvc 2 ohm, essentially it is more efficent and could hit harder, yadda yadda, so i heave heard through the grape vine, i bought dual 2 ohms on each of my type r's.
Also, box type will play in how clean/sloppy or quiet/loud they are. Ported or sealed? If you have more questions, post em meng. O yeah, take a look at the recommended volume sizes for the subs. They are quite large, you are going to have a big box.
I'm not a fan of ported to much. Love the hard hitting sealed boxes, but with these they need air so might just see what parted is like.
2ohms hit harder than 4ohms..? Ive see that alot on every forum but i never found the difference with my L7s i had. I thought if anything, the 4ohm was more deep.
If I were going with 1 amp, i would get two 2ohm woofers anyway. That would mean I would wire em in series to each amp..personaly i never trusted the looks of series wiring but as long as they hit the same...
I wanted to buy alpine type X's but i head u have to power them alot to even get it movin which is a turn off
04-15-2008, 10:21 AM
#9
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one more thing. I just checked out Alpine and seen an amp thats supposed to be release this month of the Vpower line. MRP-M2000. Im sure its not relase yet. Might try that out...
ratings:
1500watts x 1 @ 4ohms
2000watts x 1 @ 2ohms
it says "best dollar per watt performance"
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...&lang=en&tab=D
does that mean its gonna give out 600watts? it's supposed to be sold for $650. Um...misleading...
ratings:
1500watts x 1 @ 4ohms
2000watts x 1 @ 2ohms
it says "best dollar per watt performance"
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...&lang=en&tab=D
does that mean its gonna give out 600watts? it's supposed to be sold for $650. Um...misleading...
04-15-2008, 10:29 AM
#10
the sub's voice coil configuration does NOT dictate how hard they will "hit"...it's just gives you more wiring options for your setup.
when i had the RLp 15, i had it sealed at 2.0 NET airspace. i've exchanged multiple emails with Mike from sound splinter, and 2.0 is the ideal space for the 15. if you're going ported however, i would recommend 2.8 @ 28 hz since this will give you the flattest response.
here's what mike told me in the email:
as for the power, it really doesn't need all the power you have in mind to get loud. hell, when i was at a local car meet...the sub managed to pull a 137 dB on the TL mic off of 300 watts in my sealed box. 
when i had the RLp 15, i had it sealed at 2.0 NET airspace. i've exchanged multiple emails with Mike from sound splinter, and 2.0 is the ideal space for the 15. if you're going ported however, i would recommend 2.8 @ 28 hz since this will give you the flattest response.
here's what mike told me in the email:
As for your enclosure, I think 2.8 cu ft net tuned to 28 Hz is a good place to be. Consider the attached graph.
The solid magenta line represents the flattest frequency response at 3.16 cu ft net tuned to 23.4 Hz. For a home theater system, I think this would be a smashing setup!.. but for in-car, the effects of cabin gain make it so that we needn't tune so low, since lower frequencies will be boosted naturally. By tuning so low, you might notice that the higher frequency output is not as pronounced as you would like it to be.
The dotted green line in the graph represents your proposed 2.8 cu ft net @ 28 Hz. An excellent alignment for in-car use in my opinion. Should get nice and low, and maintain some hefty output over its most common frequency range.
The red dashed line represents 2.5 cu ft net @ 32 Hz. This is also suitable for in-car performance. It will offer you heightened SPL levels, but your low-frequency extension will not be as nice as the enclosure you have proposed, and overall I would believe this alignment to be a little peaky (which some people may prefer).
The solid magenta line represents the flattest frequency response at 3.16 cu ft net tuned to 23.4 Hz. For a home theater system, I think this would be a smashing setup!.. but for in-car, the effects of cabin gain make it so that we needn't tune so low, since lower frequencies will be boosted naturally. By tuning so low, you might notice that the higher frequency output is not as pronounced as you would like it to be.
The dotted green line in the graph represents your proposed 2.8 cu ft net @ 28 Hz. An excellent alignment for in-car use in my opinion. Should get nice and low, and maintain some hefty output over its most common frequency range.
The red dashed line represents 2.5 cu ft net @ 32 Hz. This is also suitable for in-car performance. It will offer you heightened SPL levels, but your low-frequency extension will not be as nice as the enclosure you have proposed, and overall I would believe this alignment to be a little peaky (which some people may prefer).
04-15-2008, 10:40 AM
#11
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haha, well dude, it doesnt matter how many amps you have. if u have 4 1000 watt amps or 1 4000 watt amp, it still drawing the sam amount of current. i do implore you though to upgrade your alternator and your battery. yellow top should do you good. you may also want to consider a second battery. i dont know what else you have running, but you should elaborate. i am good at figuring out current draws of your system and what not. i may be able to help you out alot more if you provide me with those specs.
those subs have a 90 db spl, which i am assuming is their sensitivity. 90db is a good sensitivity for subs. this means it should take less power to achieve a higher volume.
sealed boxes hit hard no matter what and you dont limit your freq range like you do with ported/vented. those subs require a bit of space because they are 15's, so yeah, sealed may be best so you dont lose the whole trunk lol.
personally i like 2 ohms, but in the end, the amp will decide what dvc impedence load i buy on my subs.
if you like the type x, get em. alpine is my favorite brand for subs aside from eclipse. they may take some more power to push if there is truth to that, but you are already planning a large system. Also keep in mind, the type x is 3000 watt max so about 1500 to 2000 watt rms. you could do one of those and be happy.
just remember, you are driving a max/i30, you need to sound dampen your trunk def and upgrade the power system. would be good to upgrade the chassis ground with 0/1 or 1/0 gauge, basically the same size. you need a good strong ground to the battery. the more current passing through the wire, the more resistance thats created which is expended in the form of heat. By using larger cables, you reduce the overall resistance because the current can flow more easily. Please dont buy a regrounding kit, they do not replace the stock grounds installed on your car, they just create new ones. you should first replace the existing and then add more ground wires if you feel it is necessary. you want to keep the design of your car as stock as possible, once you interfere with the manufacturers design, you increase the chances of problems. hence you follow the follow of "never tap into exisiting wires, always run new ones" uless your project calls for you tapping into existing systems
those subs have a 90 db spl, which i am assuming is their sensitivity. 90db is a good sensitivity for subs. this means it should take less power to achieve a higher volume.
sealed boxes hit hard no matter what and you dont limit your freq range like you do with ported/vented. those subs require a bit of space because they are 15's, so yeah, sealed may be best so you dont lose the whole trunk lol.
personally i like 2 ohms, but in the end, the amp will decide what dvc impedence load i buy on my subs.
if you like the type x, get em. alpine is my favorite brand for subs aside from eclipse. they may take some more power to push if there is truth to that, but you are already planning a large system. Also keep in mind, the type x is 3000 watt max so about 1500 to 2000 watt rms. you could do one of those and be happy.
just remember, you are driving a max/i30, you need to sound dampen your trunk def and upgrade the power system. would be good to upgrade the chassis ground with 0/1 or 1/0 gauge, basically the same size. you need a good strong ground to the battery. the more current passing through the wire, the more resistance thats created which is expended in the form of heat. By using larger cables, you reduce the overall resistance because the current can flow more easily. Please dont buy a regrounding kit, they do not replace the stock grounds installed on your car, they just create new ones. you should first replace the existing and then add more ground wires if you feel it is necessary. you want to keep the design of your car as stock as possible, once you interfere with the manufacturers design, you increase the chances of problems. hence you follow the follow of "never tap into exisiting wires, always run new ones" uless your project calls for you tapping into existing systems
04-15-2008, 10:46 AM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
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that alpine amp was most likely designed to power the type x. it is also speced at 14.4 volts, your car geneal runs at 13.1 or so. so expect the power output to be a bit less. i cant do the calcs right now, i am in class, but my guess is that at 2 ohms, the power output would be around 1750-1800 watts, maybe more.but i wanna say around the 1800 watt barrier.THD isnt too bad 1% which is indicitive of a quality amplifier. really good amps for like home theater are around .05%, but those wattages are like 100 watts a channel lol. 1% at this rating is very good.
personally, i still like to work with 1000 watt amps.
personally, i still like to work with 1000 watt amps.
04-15-2008, 01:23 PM
#13
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Good to hear. I love sealed boxes "BANG"
I do have a Yellowtop and a 220amp HO alt. I wanted a second battery but I don't have any uses for it. If i want to play the music without the car on, i'll just use my battery charger in the garage. if i see its to much, i'll get a kinetik.
sound dampen is next on my list. Good to hear I don't have to give the RLs madd power just to move, therefor i'll stick to the 1500watts. Thanks guys.
..where would I get a ported box tuned to 2.8 @ 28 hz at?
I do have a Yellowtop and a 220amp HO alt. I wanted a second battery but I don't have any uses for it. If i want to play the music without the car on, i'll just use my battery charger in the garage. if i see its to much, i'll get a kinetik.
sound dampen is next on my list. Good to hear I don't have to give the RLs madd power just to move, therefor i'll stick to the 1500watts. Thanks guys.
..where would I get a ported box tuned to 2.8 @ 28 hz at?
04-15-2008, 09:30 PM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: NJ and AZ
Posts: 548
i would still get a kinetic though dude. def. it looks as if you should be good on the power end, if i am interpreting the info correctly, sometimes its not labeled so clearly. just make sure u put the ub amps on a switch so you can give ur batt a rest and let it charge up, this is something i do since i dont always feel like booming.
as for sound deadening, i have heard wonderful things about secondskin audio. i want to do some deadening as well and thats what i would use. make sure you buy the thicker version.
as for sound deadening, i have heard wonderful things about secondskin audio. i want to do some deadening as well and thats what i would use. make sure you buy the thicker version.
04-15-2008, 10:11 PM
#16
04-17-2008, 01:26 PM
#17
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I've been reading up on enclosures alot this week.
if I understand..a sealed box can be considered for one flat acurate sound/ frequency..meaning SQ for quality....and can't reach SPL well...dependign on the sub I guess....
If it's ported, its tuned for higher frequences but misses the lows and goes more toward SPL....
If thats right, then the reason I'm looking for more power is to have a louder noise for a sealed box...When I was running only 700watts to 2 L5s, I loved the low frequencey at 20hz (acording to the amp), but I wanted it louder...not higher frequencies, just more boom in the bass hits..so I'm going to just get a sealed box. I'm sure 1500watts will knock my brains out.
if I understand..a sealed box can be considered for one flat acurate sound/ frequency..meaning SQ for quality....and can't reach SPL well...dependign on the sub I guess....
If it's ported, its tuned for higher frequences but misses the lows and goes more toward SPL....
If thats right, then the reason I'm looking for more power is to have a louder noise for a sealed box...When I was running only 700watts to 2 L5s, I loved the low frequencey at 20hz (acording to the amp), but I wanted it louder...not higher frequencies, just more boom in the bass hits..so I'm going to just get a sealed box. I'm sure 1500watts will knock my brains out.
04-17-2008, 03:47 PM
#18
I've been reading up on enclosures alot this week.
if I understand..a sealed box can be considered for one flat acurate sound/ frequency..meaning SQ for quality....and can't reach SPL well...dependign on the sub I guess....
If it's ported, its tuned for higher frequences but misses the lows and goes more toward SPL....
If thats right, then the reason I'm looking for more power is to have a louder noise for a sealed box...When I was running only 700watts to 2 L5s, I loved the low frequencey at 20hz (acording to the amp), but I wanted it louder...not higher frequencies, just more boom in the bass hits..so I'm going to just get a sealed box. I'm sure 1500watts will knock my brains out.
if I understand..a sealed box can be considered for one flat acurate sound/ frequency..meaning SQ for quality....and can't reach SPL well...dependign on the sub I guess....
If it's ported, its tuned for higher frequences but misses the lows and goes more toward SPL....
If thats right, then the reason I'm looking for more power is to have a louder noise for a sealed box...When I was running only 700watts to 2 L5s, I loved the low frequencey at 20hz (acording to the amp), but I wanted it louder...not higher frequencies, just more boom in the bass hits..so I'm going to just get a sealed box. I'm sure 1500watts will knock my brains out.
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