Put on new wheels, subwoofer now broken
05-12-2008, 10:34 AM
#1
Put on new wheels, subwoofer now broken
Hi guys,
I know one has nothing to do with the other, but it happened that way, so that's what I'm blaming it on.
Anyway, my sub stopped working on saturday and I need some advice.
I have checked all the connections to and from the amp, and they all appear to be fine. I even took apart the box and soldered the wires to the sub to make absolutely sure it wasn't that. I checked the audio cable connection on the back of the HU, but they are fine. I also checked to see if the sub itself worked, and I think it does, as it reads about 3.4 ohms (which I think is close enough, but I'm gonna check it again tonight)
Basically, I have power. I checked with the voltmeter and the little LED is lit up on the amp itself, so I know power is not the issue as it was the last time I posted.
I tried to check with the volt meter for voltage coming to the sub from the amp, but got a "Negative" reading, which is confusing. I put the positive probe on the little screw on the positive out, then the negative probe on the negative screw. This is what I'm supposed to do correct? What kind of voltage should I be expecting?
Did my amp commit sepaku?
I know one has nothing to do with the other, but it happened that way, so that's what I'm blaming it on.
Anyway, my sub stopped working on saturday and I need some advice.
I have checked all the connections to and from the amp, and they all appear to be fine. I even took apart the box and soldered the wires to the sub to make absolutely sure it wasn't that. I checked the audio cable connection on the back of the HU, but they are fine. I also checked to see if the sub itself worked, and I think it does, as it reads about 3.4 ohms (which I think is close enough, but I'm gonna check it again tonight)
Basically, I have power. I checked with the voltmeter and the little LED is lit up on the amp itself, so I know power is not the issue as it was the last time I posted.
I tried to check with the volt meter for voltage coming to the sub from the amp, but got a "Negative" reading, which is confusing. I put the positive probe on the little screw on the positive out, then the negative probe on the negative screw. This is what I'm supposed to do correct? What kind of voltage should I be expecting?
Did my amp commit sepaku?
05-12-2008, 09:17 PM
#7
Unplug your power wire from your amp, make sure it reads around 12v. Meter your remote wire with the car on or in acc. Most importantly, triple check your ground. If necessary, unbolt it and reconnect it. Also, check where you ran your 12v wire through the firewall. Maybe it got pinched in something? Check your fuses just for the heck of it. Even though your saying you see power.
What model amp is it?
What model amp is it?
05-13-2008, 08:16 AM
#10
Power: I know i'm getting the right amount of power, as the manual says the indicator LED just means that I have power, and that the protection circuit is not activated.
I'm thinking the amp may be toast as well, but I'd like to confirm before I buy another.
The thing is, why would it all of the sudden stop working? I've got an inline fuse, plus there are fuses built into the amp itself, so it didn't fry itself...I'm cornfused.
P.S. Sorry I didn't mention this earlier, but my amp is a Kenwood KAC-728S and I have Sony xplod 1200w max sub, 4g power wire, and audio wires running down the opposite side of the car.
Can I test the audio cables somehow? (w/out taking them out of the car, that's a PITA)
BTW, I think I have a theory concerning my car as a whole. It works on a "quota" system. There are only so many things that can actually work at the same time on the car, and when I put the new wheels on, I went over that quota.
Last edited by Coolsaber57; 05-13-2008 at 08:20 AM.
05-13-2008, 12:43 PM
#12
05-14-2008, 09:04 PM
#14
Fixed!!!!
The one thing I forgot was to check the my in-line fuse, it was blown! Works fine now.
One thing bothers me though: When I couldn't hear anything, I checked the sub and it was still getting the correct amount of power (12v) but it didn't work. Then today I go down and check it and no power at all. I was testing the power at the amp, then tested it at the battery and was REALLY not looking forward to ripping out the cable to try to see if it had any breaks in it. That's when it hit me. THE FUSE. Check it and sure enough, it's blown.
How the hell can it blow that big of a fuse? Did my alternator take steroids or something?
The one thing I forgot was to check the my in-line fuse, it was blown! Works fine now.
One thing bothers me though: When I couldn't hear anything, I checked the sub and it was still getting the correct amount of power (12v) but it didn't work. Then today I go down and check it and no power at all. I was testing the power at the amp, then tested it at the battery and was REALLY not looking forward to ripping out the cable to try to see if it had any breaks in it. That's when it hit me. THE FUSE. Check it and sure enough, it's blown.
How the hell can it blow that big of a fuse? Did my alternator take steroids or something?
05-15-2008, 06:57 AM
#16
Not sure either, but I can't figure it out. Maybe it was only partially blown, then blew finally?
It works now, but if it blows a fuse again, I'll know something isn't right.
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