wope

iTrader: (1)

how much, if at all, will the strongest(?) dynomat help in a car with 2 12" square solabaricc kickers, with a bd1000 amp on each sub?

thanks

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

it all depends on the install and how much of it you use.

I've got about 1/3 of my trunk done.. you can beat on the left side rear corner and you'll just hear "thud.. thud.. thud.." the right side is "claaaaang!!! claaaaaang! claaaaang!"

CanuckAMP

Hey Matt:

Do you have a competition level system installed into your newer max now? Do you still compete?

wope

iTrader: (1)

anyone else know

jmax

It'll help. But there are many cheaper alternatives that will help as much or more. How good it sounds ultimately depends on how much time you spend on the install, and how well you educate yourself before you start. For probably $200 dollars in materials you can probably completely cover the car in damping material, line the floor and head liner with carpet padding, and structurally solidify the doors and trunk. It's just a matter of using the right materials in order to get them in that budget. If you just use dynamat expect the price to go into the thousands for similar results.

Tony Fernandes

Don't use Dynamat!!! There's nothing wrong with it, but it's made for a specific purpose (car audio use) and therefore is insanely expensive.

I've used a very similar product for much less from mcmaster.com. Use their search engine and look for "sound control". You will be looking for their high-temp mastic sheets. I can't remember the price off the top of my head, but I guarantee you won't be disapointed. I used this stuff extensively in my last vehicle with awesome results. You need adobe acrobat to view their online catalog.

BTW, to the original poster. What are you trying to accomplish with sound sheets? Are you trying to lessen body vibrations and annoying noise? If so, great. You will be very disapointed if your goal is to reduce road noise. For this, you will need some sort of sound barier, not vibration dampening sheets like Dynamat. I belive you can buy pliable lead sheets for this purpose. Very expensive.

This is what I did with the front doors of my Explorer. It took FOREVER, but it all depends on your skill level, level of patience, and your final goal. First of all, I applied 2 layers of the mastic sheets to the entire outside skin of the door cavity. Then, I applied 2 cans (yes, 2 cans for EACH door) of Noisekiller Grey to each door. I covered all of the critical areas inside the door cavity with aluminum foil and sprayed this stuff everwhere. It literally created a thin layer of "rubber" over the mastic sheets. Then I just took the foil off and everything still worked normally inside. Then, I applied another layer of the sheets to the inside metal skin of the door (what you see when you take the door panel off), cutting holes into the sheets where all the access holes were. Then I put another (yes, one more) layer of sheets over the holes, overlapping the first layer. This is to create a virtual "sealed" enclosure in the door, much like home speakers. Then, I used clear silicone and covered up any small holes, bolts, etc. to further seal up the door and further reduce vibrations. Then, I used the sheets to apply another layer to the inside of the actual door panel itself (the plastic inside of the door). This adds weight and further reduces vibrations. Then use the silicone once again on anything likely to cause vibrations. Make sure the door has some sort of drainage holes on the bottom of the door for water to drain out.

What you will have left is one HEAVY, DEAD door that is as close as you're gonna get to a sealed enclosure. I had absolutely NO resonation or vibration AT ALL. So all of my music was pure music without any additions by the metal of the car (which, BTW, is a terrible speaker enclosure to begin with!!).

Anyway, it really doesn't reduce road noise...which isn't the purpose. But if you're gonna spend a decent amount of money on speakers, I can't think of any one single improvement that will affect the quality of your music as much as the above steps. And, if you are impressed (like I was) by telling your friends to knock on your door with their knuckles (thud thud)...then you're gonna like the results.

In case you're inserested, I had 8-inch Dynaudio mid woofers in each door and I didn't need a subwoofer.

I hope this helps.

Tony

jmax

The McMaster Carr material is good but I don't think it is much cheaper than dynamat, cascade, or any of the others. ramm mat, brown bread, dynamat extreme, and roof flashing are all pretty much the same(range from < $1 to > $5 per sq ft). All work well for vibration damping. If you live in the northern states you can get Owens Corning, or any other brand, roofing underlayment, smooth surfaced. They sell the granulated surfaces only, south of PA. There are other materials out there as well. I am still trying to find the best, dollar per square foot urethane, vinyl, or other polymer sheet damping material. As for soaking up sound use carpet padding. Put an extra 1/2 inch under your carpet, over your headliner, in your door skins, etc.

SWEETSOUND2001

iTrader: (30)

Visit my homepage. Too many pictures and instructions.

Anton