A pair of 12s IB in a G37?
How did you seal off the the cabin from the "trunk"? Was the baffle enough to seal the trunk and separate the waves? 
09-14-2008, 08:26 PM
#17
One more ramdon question, are the G37 rear speakers in the rear deck or in the rear passenger arm rests like they were on older coupes? The last IB G I was a part of we had to seal off the rear deck, there were speaker holes but the speakers were actually in the rear passenger arm rest. Just Curious.
09-14-2008, 08:32 PM
#19
I tend to get a bit irritable
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One more ramdon question, are the G37 rear speakers in the rear deck or in the rear passenger arm rests like they were on older coupes? The last IB G I was a part of we had to seal off the rear deck, there were speaker holes but the speakers were actually in the rear passenger arm rest. Just Curious.
09-15-2008, 05:33 AM
#27
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A T-nut, when installed from the backside, is mechanically stronger than a knifed insert, installed from the front, of the same thread size. For a T-nut connection to fail, the whole section of base material has to pull out. With the threaded inserts, only the net section of the threads needs to pull out.
When you want a smooth backsurface and/or only have access to the panel from the front, then the inserts are the way to go. I am using them to attach my amp board to the existing plywood panel (behind the rear seats) in my IB setup.
For the strongest bolted connection and when you don't care what the backsurface looks like, I think T-nuts are the way to go. Also where I live, they are alot easier to find and cheaper. I usually have to order my inserts online.
09-15-2008, 06:37 AM
#28
I tend to get a bit irritable
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My primary gripe is when a tooth or teeth break. Cheap nuts perhaps? I have had a few instances with a driver stuck inside an enclosure due to broken teether and the nut just spins when trying to remove the bolt. 
Also in most cases I need the back side to either be clean or at least appear so. Flushing a T nut isnt that difficult, but still more work than I want to apply.
Also in most cases I need the back side to either be clean or at least appear so. Flushing a T nut isnt that difficult, but still more work than I want to apply.
09-15-2008, 09:45 AM
#31
I usually had trouble with the box coming apart and me having to scrap the project and build a new baffle. This only happened once though. I was irritated enough to not use the product again.
09-15-2008, 05:00 PM
#35
09-16-2008, 07:56 PM
#37
I tend to get a bit irritable
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It was fairly easy as most are, but it would have been ALOT simpler had I had the car here the whole time.
IF you get a G37, lemme know I think I saved a template.
IF you get a G37, lemme know I think I saved a template.
09-17-2008, 05:51 AM
#39
The driver is applicable in a wide variety of boxes, closed as well as vented.
The unusually large voice coil ensures not only high power handling, but deep, tight, and detailed bass reproduction without any compression. Frequency response: 25Hz - 800Hz; 92 dB sens. 200 watts continuous.
throw the JL's away?? wtf?