Yes it can be done.


First template..



Then assembled ..





BUT will it fit ??

 

Score !

 

Too loud

 

Not at all, theyre just right.

 

What kind of subs are those?

 

Dynaudio MW190

 

They look Shweet!!

 

Indeed

 

I wish I had a money tree!!

 

Me too.

 

How did you seal off the the cabin from the "trunk"? Was the baffle enough to seal the trunk and separate the waves?

 

wow, looking real good. I wonder how loud they get....

 

The baffle was enough.

 

true great work as always!!!!

 

looks great Don! I am not a huge fan of those hurricane nuts though. They sure do look nice when they are done.

 

Hurricane nuts? WTF are you talking about? You mean like T-nuts?

 

One more ramdon question, are the G37 rear speakers in the rear deck or in the rear passenger arm rests like they were on older coupes? The last IB G I was a part of we had to seal off the rear deck, there were speaker holes but the speakers were actually in the rear passenger arm rest. Just Curious.

 

Yep! Same thing.

 

Side panels.

 

Then yes quite teh garbage. I never use em. Dont even have any laying around, ever.

 

I need a fricken router. I will take this to the "other" thread as to keep this one tidy.

 

I have three.

 

Why did you bring up T-nuts anyway?

 

This and 16hrs seperates this fact from being helpful.

 

Isn't that what you used to secure the driver to the baffle?

 

Hell no, I just dont trust em. I used knife inserts. Glue, then thread.

 

I use both in my woodworking proijects.

A T-nut, when installed from the backside, is mechanically stronger than a knifed insert, installed from the front, of the same thread size. For a T-nut connection to fail, the whole section of base material has to pull out. With the threaded inserts, only the net section of the threads needs to pull out.

When you want a smooth backsurface and/or only have access to the panel from the front, then the inserts are the way to go. I am using them to attach my amp board to the existing plywood panel (behind the rear seats) in my IB setup.

For the strongest bolted connection and when you don't care what the backsurface looks like, I think T-nuts are the way to go. Also where I live, they are alot easier to find and cheaper. I usually have to order my inserts online.

 

My primary gripe is when a tooth or teeth break. Cheap nuts perhaps? I have had a few instances with a driver stuck inside an enclosure due to broken teether and the nut just spins when trying to remove the bolt.

Also in most cases I need the back side to either be clean or at least appear so. Flushing a T nut isnt that difficult, but still more work than I want to apply.

 

Wow, I have never seen a tooth break, but I have seen regular particle board crumble which produces the same effect.

 

Looks great.

 

I usually had trouble with the box coming apart and me having to scrap the project and build a new baffle. This only happened once though. I was irritated enough to not use the product again.

 

Nice setup!

 

just curious what type of amp is pushing those beauties and how does the owner feel so far about the sound? Setup looks so clean, just want to do it to show off...

 

A pair of Zapco 6 channels to run 4 way active.

He absolutely friggen loves it ! He wanted me to toss his JL sub in the trash.

 

LOL! IB FTW. One day I may have a system worthy of this in a car I haven't tried to be loud in. One day I tell you, one day.

 

nicely done. When i read the thread title i was thinking off the rear deck..

Id like to do one of these installs at my shop someday.

 

It was fairly easy as most are, but it would have been ALOT simpler had I had the car here the whole time.

IF you get a G37, lemme know I think I saved a template.

 

will do. i dont suppose you have it on a computer program though, right? lol

 

The MW190 is a large powerful driver intended for woofer and subwoofer applications in high quality car audio systems.
The driver is applicable in a wide variety of boxes, closed as well as vented.

The unusually large voice coil ensures not only high power handling, but deep, tight, and detailed bass reproduction without any compression. Frequency response: 25Hz - 800Hz; 92 dB sens. 200 watts continuous.
throw the JL's away?? wtf?

 

No sir.