0 Guage Terminals...Crimping, etc....
#1
0 Guage Terminals...Crimping, etc....
So I need to start doing 0 guage wiring. Question is on how folk do it on the org. I need 3 leades of 0 guage from positive and negative on the battery. Question is what terminals can you guys recomend or how can I go about adding some brass terminals to em?
(Last time I just used a hammer, but might be a better way or 2.
(Last time I just used a hammer, but might be a better way or 2.
#2
So I need to start doing 0 guage wiring. Question is on how folk do it on the org. I need 3 leades of 0 guage from positive and negative on the battery. Question is what terminals can you guys recomend or how can I go about adding some brass terminals to em?
(Last time I just used a hammer, but might be a better way or 2.
(Last time I just used a hammer, but might be a better way or 2.
#3
yep, what chris said. you can just put the terminal on the ground and beat the crap out of it with a hammer so it 'crimps'. OR you can take a butane torch, and heat up the wire and melt some solder onto it locking the terminal in place.
#5
#7
You can also use a vice if you have one, saves from accidentally hitting and breaking the insulation if you are a bad shot with the hammer.
Having said that, I used that connections from Street Wires that you pull the wire through and bend it over then end, kind of like a mushroom. Then you screw the end down that has the actual ring on it to lock it. Kind of expensive though if that matters...
-Matt
Having said that, I used that connections from Street Wires that you pull the wire through and bend it over then end, kind of like a mushroom. Then you screw the end down that has the actual ring on it to lock it. Kind of expensive though if that matters...
-Matt
#8
Beat the crap out of it, easiest.
If you want to be slightly more precise, get a pair of pliers and bend the slit in the crimping ring so one side slips under the other. Then squeeze, THEN beat the crap out of it.
If you want to be slightly more precise, get a pair of pliers and bend the slit in the crimping ring so one side slips under the other. Then squeeze, THEN beat the crap out of it.
#9
thats what i did without the hammering, just had a buddy of mine squeeze the **** out of the channel locks
#13
I hammered mine as well...I didn't have/feel like looking for a huge wire crimper. That and I didn't feel like paying for a tool I'd use 2-3 times in my life
#15
#16
#17
good buy or something better for the/less money?
#19
this one? i used this one for 4 gauge a couple weeks ago and it didn't come out super clean. kinda had to pre-bend it and even then it was off center because the jaws weren't quite big enough.
#23
First post of all places. There is also a small anvil type of thing that I have. You put the cable and connector in there and hit it with a hammer. Not sure where I got it but that is what it's designed for. Honestly though I'm never happy with how tight it makes the connection so I end up soldering it. And if you have to do one while one end is attached in the car you can't really use it. I've made my own grounding kits using the solder and heat shrink method and that worked best for me.
#24
I use a hydraulic crimper that I barrow from my work it works great. It comes with inserts for different size terminals.The only bad thing is it takes two people to use it because have to pump the handle until valve blows off so someone else has to hold the terminal and the wire.
#25
I use a very large Vice-Grip plier. It fits every size wire and terminal, because you can adjust the jaw opening. It provides great crimping leverage. For a large ring I start with the jaws fairly wide, crimp the ring a bit, then adjust the jaws narrower. For large rings I might adjust the jaws three or four times. The result is very strong but also probably a lot neater than banging the rings with a hammer.
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