ezish

My Car: Maxima 03 Non Bose HU No CD Changer

Goal: I am not that much of a fan of base, I am more of a fan of treble (high frequency sound). But I want high quality music. So, I feel I don't need to get a sub woofer, the base I am going to get from speakers should be enough.

Question?
I am worried about factory HU amp matching with the following speakers? Do I need to get an amp? Is the factory amp is enough for both front and read speakers?

Proposed Solution
I am planning to replace my factory speakers. After lots of searching (only the local stores), I think I like the following:

Front: JL Audio C5-650 2-Way Component Systems
Rear: JL Audio VR650-CXi Coaxials

To my understanding the factory HU is 10-50 RMS and the speaker I am getting is 25 - 150 Watts. So far the knowledge I have gathered seems its not a good match. I need lower watts speaker to work with factory HU. Am I right?

Thanks in advance.

tdewitt34

I would agree that you are correct. Your factory HU will not put out the watts needed.(are you sure you want to keep the factory HU?) Imagine a cup that is 16oz and a cup that is 24oz. Pour water in the 16oz and 24oz at the same time and the 16oz fills up quicker. Your watts will make your speakers sound better being at lower watts than if you were to have a higher wattage speaker. You will get clipping where the sound becomes distorted and cuts out at higher watts with a lower wattage HU. You will do good by getting speaker that handle 20 rms and 60 to 75 watts peak. You will sound better than the others who think the higher watts the better. If you can afford some get Rockford Fosgate they have some nice sounding speakers and they have good highs. Check out Pioneer also they are for sound but not bass. Visit Crutchfield.com and you can get some useful information and customer reviews on most speakers.

ezish

Ok. So you are saying I would rather get a aftermarket head unit. sigh!!! I spent so much time researching and now I need to research again for a good after market head unit. Do you have any recommendations?

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

You could just add an amplifier, but you're going about this all wrong.

tdewitt34

No not saying that but there are advantages to getting an aftermarket HU. For instance most will have better features like better freq range, the ability to add an amp also more control over sound. But anyway I promise you once you start shopping for speakers the HU will almost always change. Just keep researching and you'll eventually find exactly what you are looking for. I personally run a Pioneer 5000UB with 5.25 front Rockford Fosgate and 6.75 rear, factory tweets. I took out my Bose and hooked up my speakers straight. I get great sound and I don't run an amp. Some here might think factory Bose speakers are great but they don't handle power or deep bass the highs are decent but I like a mixture since my taste in music varies.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Why 5.25s in the front ?

You may have removed your Bose speakers, but your amp is still present and being used. If not the case, then you didnt have Blose to begin with.

tdewitt34

I put 5.25 in the front because the 6.75 did not fit well. I could've put 6.5 in the front but the watts were not right. My next plan is to add subs and a EQ w/ crossover. The factory bose speakers can be bypassed just run all the wires straight to the speakers. Or you could just take out the bose speakers and add similiar dimentional speakers into the basket and run them that way but your ohms would'nt be right. Real simple to do but why do that when you can just run new upgraded speakers?! With this I can have a upgraded system that doesnt just put out bass and highs but a balanced sound when turned up LOUD! I will post pics as soon as I can to show you what I talking about.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

Im well aware of how the car works as I do think I have done a couple in my time.

6.5s fit with ease.

'bypassing' the bose amp would yield zero output with an aftermarket HU since the signal sent is flat and unamplified.

Please define : " I could've put 6.5 in the front but the watts were not right."

I think your more paper spec racing and losing out on potential that could be unleashed by doing so.

ezish

I see. Now I am thinking to get Alpine iDA-X305.
I guess the real question is how this Alpine iDA-X305 HU will match with JL Audio C5-650 (Continuous Power Handling: 75 Watts)? I don't really understand how do I know my HU will match the speaker? I understand that I need to buy a HU that will have just about the right power sending to the speaker not too much or not too less.

The JL Audio tweeter, can I place it in the factory tweeter place or the factory tweeter will be just for show and I need to find a space on the door for JL tweeters.

I don't have BOSE and I am getting 6.5 inch speakers. not 5.25.

tdewitt34

I am sorry for not editing my post but 6.75 will have some fitment issues.(magnet size depending on what brand you use) I have also made and sold comp systems and reg joe systems. I wanted all of my watts to work together if you have done this you can much higher watts in the back that drown out the speakers of lower watts up front. Now most installers say add and amp to the front and that will balance out the sound. As I said before I want a balanced sound you can achieve that with watts that compliment each other. You can have a very nice sound without using amps. That fact that you say no signal is correct but we are not going to use the signal, we are going to simply bypass it by straight wiring to the speaker from the HU. That will produce 4 separate 1 channel signals, one for each speaker. But he doesnt have Bose anyway. As far as the Alpine. I like Alpine the bass is hard and broad. the highs not so much. That system is low for those compono's you are eyeing but they have a head pack(amp) for 140 extra. No remote I say no deal search again try visiting http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500IDAX...684&tab=review Try Blaupunkt key west, Pioneer 6000ub and Clarion cz509 they have comparable HU's Keep the tweets but you can upgrade and mount them in the door. Try Polk Audio or the Boston Acoustics compos. Both have very good bass range and very good highs with large sound range range.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

My replied was in response to the poster that I quoted.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

6.5/6.75s have fitment issues ? You used to install ? Where ? Ive done several sets of 8s in these cars, I cannot fathom an issue with 6.5/6.75 ...

I understand what direct is. However IF Bose was involved then there is no such thing as straight from the HU to the speakers. It simply cannot happen.

I really have absolutely no clue what your talking about with you wanting " all of your watts working together". After over 20 years of doing this for a living, I am completely lost on what you could possibly be referring to.

tdewitt34

well I can't argue your 20yrs but having won some sound competitions and building these systems I think I can talk the talk. now I have a question which would sound louder a 90w speaker or a 180w speaker? If in a car the sound would come from the higher watts and drown out the lower watts( that's why most factory systems have the same wattage speakers all around) Bose sytems have intergrated amps and they can be BYPASSED Wire up the radio from the battery (can be done and have done it before) and run everything from it. Not touching the wires of the factory system(the cheaper easiest way or more thorough way of removing all wires much more expensive.) Have you tried to remove the bose speaker and housing (the speaker can just be unplugged) and run a higher wattage 2ohm speaker or 4ohm speaker hard as heck to find a good fitment but once again can be done stealthly. A good way to impress friends who have bose systems. Done that also.

Pearl96Max

iTrader: (151)

I know very well how the Bose system works. The fact is the HU has zero 'power' it is a flat UNAMPLIFIED signal to the OEM amps. It is essentially the same as running an RCA preout directly to a speaker. Have you tried that ? It simply does not work.

I never argued them being capable of being bypassed. With an aftermarket HU it is absolutely possible to run wire direct to the speaker and power it just fine, but the subject here is the OEM deck which has JUST SIGNAL.

tdewitt34

once again you misunderstood me. I was talking about bypassing the factory amp. You were talking about the oem HU. I understand that but that was not what was refering to. Aftermarket HU is what the original poster wanted to know about. That is what I was helping him out on.