Another RAAMmatt Group deal!!!
11-23-2001, 07:44 PM
#4
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Originally posted by ny96max
that stuff dont do $hit.... neither does dynamat its all a gimick
i love sukering people into buying the stuff at my job even though its does ZERO for sound dampening
that stuff dont do $hit.... neither does dynamat its all a gimick
i love sukering people into buying the stuff at my job even though its does ZERO for sound dampening
11-24-2001, 12:15 AM
#5
Originally posted by ny96max
that stuff dont do $hit.... neither does dynamat its all a gimick i love sukering people into buying the stuff at my job even though its does ZERO for sound dampening
that stuff dont do $hit.... neither does dynamat its all a gimick
i love sukering people into buying the stuff at my job even though its does ZERO for sound dampening
11-24-2001, 12:35 AM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,493
dangit
I just bought two rolls a few weeks ago for $130 shipped. Well, I do recommend this for people who are installing a system or for those who want a quiet ride. It takes a lot of work to quiet the car, but to many its well worth it. I'm doing a progressive sound job...doing a little bit here and there. So far I have the floor, rear deck, and door done. I'll take my time and finish the rest of the car before New Years.
11-24-2001, 02:18 PM
#8
Disco Biscuit
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,791
Originally posted by jmax
Thanks Jon. But I can pick up the peel and seal for less without a shipping charge. Is there any advantage to the raam mat over the peel and seal?
Thanks Jon. But I can pick up the peel and seal for less without a shipping charge. Is there any advantage to the raam mat over the peel and seal?
11-27-2001, 12:35 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
excuse me?? never tried the stuff?? just to let you know ive been a car audio installer for the past 4yrs and have seen/heard/tried it all!! the most you will get out of these dampening materials would be a lil less road noise and more weight added to your car.... thats it
peace,
Anthony
MECP certified tech!!!
peace,
Anthony
MECP certified tech!!!
11-28-2001, 08:47 AM
#13
Originally posted by ny96max
excuse me?? never tried the stuff?? just to let you know ive been a car audio installer for the past 4yrs and have seen/heard/tried it all!! the most you will get out of these dampening materials would be a lil less road noise and more weight added to your car.... thats it
peace,
Anthony
MECP certified tech!!!
excuse me?? never tried the stuff?? just to let you know ive been a car audio installer for the past 4yrs and have seen/heard/tried it all!! the most you will get out of these dampening materials would be a lil less road noise and more weight added to your car.... thats it
peace,
Anthony
MECP certified tech!!!
FYI, I just got done installing 2 rolls of Raammat in my car and it made a HUGE difference in lowering road noise, and I even hear a difference in my STOCK stereo. the car's gone from sounding like a tin can to where it sounds like you're knocking on a big rock now.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...tereo/dynamat/
there's a few pics for you to look at and a .mpg at the bottom. take a look at that and tell me that's not helping any.
11-28-2001, 07:23 PM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
thats right i dont know anything i only took the MECP certification test-$80 for no reason! I also forgot that now iam able to get a job installing pretty much anywhere i want to with my certification, thanks!!
BTW it will make the car more solid but will not make your speakers sound any better than they are, especially you crap stock speakers!
i only took the MECP certification test-$80 for no reason! I also forgot that now iam able to get a job installing pretty much anywhere i want to with my certification, thanks!!BTW it will make the car more solid but will not make your speakers sound any better than they are, especially you crap stock speakers!
11-28-2001, 07:49 PM
#15
Originally posted by ny96max
BTW it will make the car more solid but will not make your speakers sound any better than they are, especially you crap stock speakers!
BTW it will make the car more solid but will not make your speakers sound any better than they are, especially you crap stock speakers!
Now you take a completely sound deadened and sealed door that behaves a lot more like a speaker cabinet. How do you think that same speaker is going to perform now?
Anyhow, nuff said
11-28-2001, 08:46 PM
#16
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Originally posted by ny96max
thats right i dont know anything i only took the MECP certification test-$80 for no reason! I also forgot that now iam able to get a job installing pretty much anywhere i want to with my certification, thanks!!
BTW it will make the car more solid but will not make your speakers sound any better than they are, especially you crap stock speakers!
thats right i dont know anything
i only took the MECP certification test-$80 for no reason! I also forgot that now iam able to get a job installing pretty much anywhere i want to with my certification, thanks!!BTW it will make the car more solid but will not make your speakers sound any better than they are, especially you crap stock speakers!
11-28-2001, 11:29 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 408
Originally posted by Matt93SE
Hmmm.. that's funny. you've been an installer for 4 years and still don't know squat?
FYI, I just got done installing 2 rolls of Raammat in my car and it made a HUGE difference in lowering road noise, and I even hear a difference in my STOCK stereo. the car's gone from sounding like a tin can to where it sounds like you're knocking on a big rock now.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...tereo/dynamat/
there's a few pics for you to look at and a .mpg at the bottom. take a look at that and tell me that's not helping any.
Hmmm.. that's funny. you've been an installer for 4 years and still don't know squat?
FYI, I just got done installing 2 rolls of Raammat in my car and it made a HUGE difference in lowering road noise, and I even hear a difference in my STOCK stereo. the car's gone from sounding like a tin can to where it sounds like you're knocking on a big rock now.
http://www.ee.utulsa.edu/~mblehm/pic...tereo/dynamat/
there's a few pics for you to look at and a .mpg at the bottom. take a look at that and tell me that's not helping any.
Got a question... The picture of your right door (before and after), so you put the RAAMmat right over the cables? What happens if one of the wires goes dead? How do you get that crud off?
Regards,
Mike H.
11-29-2001, 11:18 AM
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: North Florida
Posts: 811
Originally posted by jmax
You mean they accepted an $80 payoff to pass someone with no common sense? I feel sorry for the poor sons of bit@*es that have you as a consultant. To be honest I have only met 2-3 certified installers with a lick of common sense or intelligence.
You mean they accepted an $80 payoff to pass someone with no common sense? I feel sorry for the poor sons of bit@*es that have you as a consultant. To be honest I have only met 2-3 certified installers with a lick of common sense or intelligence.
You're funny. Actually, I couldn't have said it better myself. Who knows, it could have been one of those "home correspondence" courses. My dog and my cat could pass one of those things.
11-29-2001, 11:28 AM
#19
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: North Florida
Posts: 811
Originally posted by jmax
You mean they accepted an $80 payoff to pass someone with no common sense? I feel sorry for the poor sons of bit@*es that have you as a consultant. To be honest I have only met 2-3 certified installers with a lick of common sense or intelligence.
You mean they accepted an $80 payoff to pass someone with no common sense? I feel sorry for the poor sons of bit@*es that have you as a consultant. To be honest I have only met 2-3 certified installers with a lick of common sense or intelligence.
You're funny. Actually, I couldn't have said it better myself. Who knows, it could have been one of those "home correspondence" courses. My dog and my cat could pass one of those things.
12-01-2001, 05:43 PM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: North Florida
Posts: 811
Originally posted by jmax
If we take the test at my place I'll be sure the frig is packed full of beer prior to the start of the exam.
If we take the test at my place I'll be sure the frig is packed full of beer prior to the start of the exam.
12-01-2001, 06:37 PM
#26
gosh that sound deadening stuff is sOO time consuming.. i've barely mated the trunk and have already spent 3 hours... i dont' have a roller so i've been using a deep socket. and the heat gun helps on those irregular parts of the trunk... how many layers should i mat the trunk??? just two???? i was thinking maybe 4 for the inside of the car.
12-02-2001, 01:03 AM
#31
geez.....i dunno how anyone could think dynamat is a waste...just knocking on the damn trunklid is proof enough...if you can't hear the difference in that i dunno what your trippin on. Also dynamatting the whole door almost makes the door a enclosure enhancing the speaker's sound...i'll admit dynamat can't seal up the whole door ( the holes at the bottom to let water out)..it does make a noticeable difference in stock speakers...especially in trucks...and yes it does make a difference even in a 2002 maxima...and damn put that MECP away...it dosent mean anything if your stubborn and arrogant....i'll admit i've only been certifed for almost a year.but im only 19....and no i didnt pay 80 bux..i went to installer institute (www.installerinstitute.com) and it is proven that dynamat on a door panel will improve performance because it dampens the door panel getting rid of its resonant frequency ( the frequency in which things vibrate) so put that MECP away before you give it a bad name.
L. Lim
Best buy 134 Dublin,Ca.
Senior installer
L. Lim
Best buy 134 Dublin,Ca.
Senior installer
12-02-2001, 07:31 AM
#33
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: North Florida
Posts: 811
Originally posted by jmax
It's a two part test. The first score doesn't count unless you make a legitamate attempt at the second.
It's a two part test. The first score doesn't count unless you make a legitamate attempt at the second.
12-02-2001, 09:38 PM
#34
Funny... all these MECP certified installers, and not a damn one of you know the difference between dampening and damping?
put away the water hose and get out the damping materials!
As for the question on the wires in my door.. this stuff is just a sticky goo on the inside of the mat- it's like sticking the wires down with duct tape. if for any reason I need to get back in there, I simply peel the stuff off and do what I need. it'll be sticky, but at that point I'm not worried about it. of the few years I've installed car stereo stuff (few years= about 8), I have yet to have a problem with a wire inside a door.
the way I went around all the window regulators and stuff, I can easily pull them out if I need to. (window regulators in 3rd gens are common to break, so I made it so they're still as easily removable as stock).
And about all your MECP certified crap again... MOST of the guys out there working in shops are MECP certified, but that doesn't mean squat. anyone can study and pass a test on paper, but it's what you can do with your hands and brain that counts. calculating a box size or power cable size based on a given current and length is no big deal. where to/not to run wires through a firewall is also a common sense thing.
I challenge you guys to find a PERTINENT question in the MECP test that can't be easily figured out from common sense, decent amount of shop experience, or looked up in a chart in under 5 minutes.
put away the water hose and get out the damping materials!
As for the question on the wires in my door.. this stuff is just a sticky goo on the inside of the mat- it's like sticking the wires down with duct tape. if for any reason I need to get back in there, I simply peel the stuff off and do what I need. it'll be sticky, but at that point I'm not worried about it. of the few years I've installed car stereo stuff (few years= about 8), I have yet to have a problem with a wire inside a door.
the way I went around all the window regulators and stuff, I can easily pull them out if I need to. (window regulators in 3rd gens are common to break, so I made it so they're still as easily removable as stock).
And about all your MECP certified crap again... MOST of the guys out there working in shops are MECP certified, but that doesn't mean squat. anyone can study and pass a test on paper, but it's what you can do with your hands and brain that counts. calculating a box size or power cable size based on a given current and length is no big deal. where to/not to run wires through a firewall is also a common sense thing.
I challenge you guys to find a PERTINENT question in the MECP test that can't be easily figured out from common sense, decent amount of shop experience, or looked up in a chart in under 5 minutes.
12-02-2001, 09:46 PM
#35
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Take it easy Matt. The beer is strictly for consumption. Not dampening, I mean damping material. But I guess it could be used for both, especially a really high specific gravity brew. Could you imagine soundwaves trying to pass through the head of a recently poured Guiness or Murphy's stout?
12-02-2001, 10:00 PM
#36
Originally posted by jmax
Take it easy Matt. The beer is strictly for consumption. Not dampening, I mean damping material. But I guess it could be used for both, especially a really high specific gravity brew. Could you imagine soundwaves trying to pass through the head of a recently poured Guiness or Murphy's stout?
Take it easy Matt. The beer is strictly for consumption. Not dampening, I mean damping material. But I guess it could be used for both, especially a really high specific gravity brew. Could you imagine soundwaves trying to pass through the head of a recently poured Guiness or Murphy's stout?
Now what we need to do is head over to someone's house with a trunk full of dynamat and dampen the front of our shirts with beer while we're damping the resonances in the car with dynamat.
12-02-2001, 10:10 PM
#37
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Posts: n/a
Now we're talkin'. But I won't use that dynacrud in my car. I can get far better for much less. But it's so chilly tonight I don't think the heat gun would give enough heat to make anything stick. I need a house with a big garage to house my car for about 3 days, no 4. Strip it down to bare metal everywhere but the places that already have 1-5 layers and start rolling, pouring, puttying, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing. Well we gotta get a little more than just damping done in these four days. Besides, how better to damp a panel than with some 8.9 oz or thicker cloth and a couple gallons epoxy, glass microsperes and
12-02-2001, 10:17 PM
#38
Originally posted by jmax
Now we're talkin'. But I won't use that dynacrud in my car. I can get far better for much less. But it's so chilly tonight I don't think the heat gun would give enough heat to make anything stick. I need a house with a big garage to house my car for about 3 days, no 4. Strip it down to bare metal everywhere but the places that already have 1-5 layers and start rolling, pouring, puttying, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing. Well we gotta get a little more than just damping done in these four days. Besides, how better to damp a panel than with some 8.9 oz or thicker cloth and a couple gallons epoxy, glass microsperes and
Now we're talkin'. But I won't use that dynacrud in my car. I can get far better for much less. But it's so chilly tonight I don't think the heat gun would give enough heat to make anything stick. I need a house with a big garage to house my car for about 3 days, no 4. Strip it down to bare metal everywhere but the places that already have 1-5 layers and start rolling, pouring, puttying, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing, glassing. Well we gotta get a little more than just damping done in these four days. Besides, how better to damp a panel than with some 8.9 oz or thicker cloth and a couple gallons epoxy, glass microsperes and
I used 2 rolls of Raammat, and ended up with 3 layers on the floor of the trunk, 4 on the sides.. 4 layers on the front outer door skind and 2 on the inner door skins. 2 more layers on the rear outer skins to get rid of road noise.
now jsut driving down the highway It wounds like I'm going 60 when I'm doing 120.
The rest of my system will be "removable" for when I go to the track.. so the only thing that'll stay in the car will be a few brackets to bolt everything down, and I'll bolt in a big cross-brace across my rear deck when I remove the subs.. I'll just put them on a big panel with 4-6-8-10-12- whatever # of bolts so I can remove the entire rear deck, and bolt in a tube frame brace back there when I need to handle better. How's that sound?
12-02-2001, 10:26 PM
#39
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The word after the "and" above is fumed silica. This and glass microspheres added to resin allows you to cover about twice the volume with a particluar mass of resin. And epoxy is lighter and stronger than polyester resins like bondo. Also, like wool, hollow microspheres are great insulators. If you want it to be removable just lay downa few layers of wax before you start applying resin. Then bolt the part in place when it is formed. The rigidity that you can add to your panels by making them thicker with a structural composite sandwich should easily outweigh the advantage of two rolls ramm mat. But he is one of the cheaper materials I was speaking of, I personally use peel & seal.
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