wickedmax13

Ok so I hooked up everything with the line out converter. Here is my question...I hooked up the remote wire to the audio fuse in the fuse box and it still wasnt working. The only way I could get it working was to bridge a wire on the amp from the remote to the power with the wire still hooked up into the fuse box. Everything is working fine now but I was wondering if it is gonna drain my battery. When the car is off the power light on the amp is off too. Just wondering if even if the light is off if its still drawing current?

wickedmax13

I guess I will just have to see when I get up early tom to go to work if my car starts or not....

maxima365

well that is always the easiest way to find out

bigpopaj369

iTrader: (2)

i wouldnt see how if the light is off it would be drawing power

NissanMan97

iTrader: (5)

makes sense to me

B

wickedmax13

It started this morning just fine. I got to work and turned my car off and took the key completely out and it took a second for my gauges to go down and my audio screen to turn off after my key was completely out...also noticed the lights being a little dimmer than normal. So even though its not sending full 12v to the amplifier it still is drawing a little current, just not enough to turn the amp light on. I pulled the remote wire from the fuse box and now back to square one. F&%#

DAlastDON

I wish there was some one in your area to assist you for real. This post concerns me and this is why. You bridged the power and remote, no big deal the amp should just stay on all the time. BUT you also connected the remote line to a 12v accessory tap in the fuse box and it magically starts working until you pull the remote line out of the fuse box. It all adds up that you are COMPLETELY powering the amp from the fuse box. The dash lights were a lil dimmer because you were powering the amp off the same circuit. Also the dash lights took a lil longer to shut off because of the small capacitors inside them amp take a second to discharge when the power is shut off. Its not blowing the fuse in the fuse box because you are on the hot side of the fuse and are not fused. I bet (from your other post) when you spliced into the 12v acc wire behind the radio you had the remote and power bridged on the amp then too. It was COMPLETELY powering the amp and thats why the fuse blew. Are you positive that the power wire going to the amp from the battery has power on it? I don't think it does. Check the connectors for the power wire at the battery, fuse, and amp and make sure that the wire is securely crimped and making contact. Try another fuse because sometimes they can be blown and not look like it. EVEN better would be to use a volt/ohm meter to see if you have voltage at the respective connections and to verify that the fuse isn't blown. Instead of hooking this and bridgeing that and not knowing if you have power on your wires or not. No one wants to see a thread on how your car caught fire.