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ATTN: Maximadave - BOSE HU Question

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Old Dec 3, 2001 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
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ATTN: Maximadave - BOSE HU Question

Dave,

Is it possible to add an aftermarket sound system and keep the Bose HU AND not have any of that cracking or popping or hissing sound when you play the system? I am going to gut everything out of the car except for the HU because I think as far as factory HUs go, the ones in the 5th Gen Max are quite exceptional. I will be replacing all speakers, and adding two subs. Amps will be JL Audio. I like the way the HU looks but with all other systems that I have heard that use the factory HU, there has been thi shissing sound. If I have to sacrific SQ, then I would rather replace with an aftermarket head and dash kit. What do you think? Is there a certain type of peripheral that can reduce this interference?
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 11:09 PM
  #2  
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you will need:

-one line output converter($40)
-Alpine bass module($60)run from line out converter into bass-module and back out to your sub amp. These allow for full adjustablility of subs while not affecting the rest of your system. They work great and highly reccomend them when keeping stock head unit in place.
-16ft RCA Lightning Audio ($30)
-4ft rca Lightning Audio ($8)links the lineout converter to bass-module
-remote wire ($2)find any ignition wire or power antenna lead to kick the amp on when car is on.
*Note that most Stock systems(bose/non bose) turn off the power antenna when CD or tape is in play. I would use an ignition wire with an inline switch to kill power to the amp when you want. Much easier that way
-Lightning Audio powerflow kit for amp ($60-80 8gauge kit)
- you might wanna pick up a Bose-Aftermarket wiring harness, that way you can figure out wich wires are the rear speaker wires and igntion wires, makes life alot easier then probing each wire

as far as noise, the only noise i could think of would be carried throuh the remote line into your sub amp from an igniton source, sometimes you will get feedback when the amp is not in use, thats why if you run an inline switch you can kill the amp completely. Ive never heard a stock head unit power aftermarket speakers very well at all, id say get a new headunit and leave the stock speakers, youd be suprised what the bose speakers can handle if you dish them more power than stock! anything 45x4 or higher will be fine, just keep the bass setting low and sub gain up a lil.

goodluck!
Anthony
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 11:38 PM
  #3  
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Thanks Anthony, here is your $20.00
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 09:02 AM
  #4  
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Originally posted by ny96max
you will need:

-one line output converter($40)
-Alpine bass module($60)run from line out converter into bass-module and back out to your sub amp. These allow for full adjustablility of subs while not affecting the rest of your system. They work great and highly reccomend them when keeping stock head unit in place.
-16ft RCA Lightning Audio ($30)
-4ft rca Lightning Audio ($8)links the lineout converter to bass-module
-remote wire ($2)find any ignition wire or power antenna lead to kick the amp on when car is on.
*Note that most Stock systems(bose/non bose) turn off the power antenna when CD or tape is in play. I would use an ignition wire with an inline switch to kill power to the amp when you want. Much easier that way
-Lightning Audio powerflow kit for amp ($60-80 8gauge kit)
- you might wanna pick up a Bose-Aftermarket wiring harness, that way you can figure out wich wires are the rear speaker wires and igntion wires, makes life alot easier then probing each wire

as far as noise, the only noise i could think of would be carried throuh the remote line into your sub amp from an igniton source, sometimes you will get feedback when the amp is not in use, thats why if you run an inline switch you can kill the amp completely. Ive never heard a stock head unit power aftermarket speakers very well at all, id say get a new headunit and leave the stock speakers, youd be suprised what the bose speakers can handle if you dish them more power than stock! anything 45x4 or higher will be fine, just keep the bass setting low and sub gain up a lil.

goodluck!
Anthony
I appreciate the info. I know how to hook all of this stuff up. It's relatively easy. I was just wondering if there was anything like a periferal interface or something like that that would reduce that noise. My friend ran a complete system off the HU in his 4Runner and there was always this hissing sound (like with a tape deck or record player) playing through his speakers. It sounded like straight ***. Do you know of anyone that has any pics of an aftermarket HU and dash kit so I can see what it may look like?
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 11:07 AM
  #5  
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there is a company that makes a interface piece that is designed for bose headunits. ill find out tommorow at work who makes it, cost like $60 for the piece.
its designed to go from bose headunit to aftermarket head unit. as far as dash kits, i have honeslty never seen one before in a 2k maxima. ill poke around online and see if i can find something for ya!

Anthony
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 11:58 AM
  #6  
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Originally posted by ny96max
there is a company that makes a interface piece that is designed for bose headunits. ill find out tommorow at work who makes it, cost like $60 for the piece.
its designed to go from bose headunit to aftermarket head unit. as far as dash kits, i have honeslty never seen one before in a 2k maxima. ill poke around online and see if i can find something for ya!

Anthony
Anthony,

I appreciate it. The main reason I didn't want to get rid of the stock HU was because I hate the way most dash kits look and the nimrods that run the stereo shops can't do a custom refit of the dash when they install it. Because of that, I was going to do it myself, but I just don't like the way most kits look.

C.D.
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 01:17 PM
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I went to my Nissan dealership down the street and picked up a GXE radio bezel and radio pocket so my Eclipse screen looks factory installed. I wish I had a pic to show you but my roommate has my digital camera. I would get these parts and get an aftermarket deck like Eclipse or Alpine to fit in the dash. If you still want to keep your oem deck the JL Audio 300/4 and 250/1 (I have both of these amps) both take high and low level inputs. Both of these amps rock.
Good luck.

Maximadave
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 03:05 PM
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Originally posted by maximadave
I went to my Nissan dealership down the street and picked up a GXE radio bezel and radio pocket so my Eclipse screen looks factory installed. I wish I had a pic to show you but my roommate has my digital camera. I would get these parts and get an aftermarket deck like Eclipse or Alpine to fit in the dash. If you still want to keep your oem deck the JL Audio 300/4 and 250/1 (I have both of these amps) both take high and low level inputs. Both of these amps rock.
Good luck.

Maximadave
Do you know if you'll have any pictures that you could put up soon?
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 03:09 PM
  #9  
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the thing that kinda suks for 5th gens is that us 4th gen radios are ISO mounted, rather then mounted with a dash kit. Your 100% right most guys will just slap it inot your dash and call it a day. Its better if you do it yourself to make sure its done right.

ill even look at the dash kits my shop has and see how its installed for the 2k+ max's.

Anthony
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 03:40 PM
  #10  
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Don't go with an aftermarket stereo kit. They are crap!!! Spend a few extra bucks and get a GXE radio bezel and pocket at your local Nissan dealer.

Maximadave

P.S. My roommate has my digital camera. I'll see if I can get it back from him...
Old Dec 4, 2001 | 06:47 PM
  #11  
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A Few Ideas

I've been thinking about doing the same thing with my 2K2 (keeping stock HU and upgrading speakers and amps). You should remember that pulling the HU on the 2K2 disables the Trip Computer.

There are at least 3 high end adapters that may work. These adapters are supposed to convert the Bose special "differential" pre-amp outputs to a normal output for use with any amp. Some provide gain adjustments etc. I'm really curios to know what everyone thinks of these and if anyone has used these products:

The Soundgate LOCB:
http://www.soundgate.com/adj-loc.html

The P.I.E. PDC-LOC4:
http://www.pie.net/sec12sb4.htm

The LinkMeUp PowerDriver PD4:
http://www.linkmeup.com/pd4.html

Whichever product you choose, please post your results for the benefit of others . . . Thanks!
Old Dec 5, 2001 | 08:51 AM
  #12  
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Re: A Few Ideas

Originally posted by ABS
I've been thinking about doing the same thing with my 2K2 (keeping stock HU and upgrading speakers and amps). You should remember that pulling the HU on the 2K2 disables the Trip Computer.

There are at least 3 high end adapters that may work. These adapters are supposed to convert the Bose special "differential" pre-amp outputs to a normal output for use with any amp. Some provide gain adjustments etc. I'm really curios to know what everyone thinks of these and if anyone has used these products:

The Soundgate LOCB:
http://www.soundgate.com/adj-loc.html

The P.I.E. PDC-LOC4:
http://www.pie.net/sec12sb4.htm

The LinkMeUp PowerDriver PD4:
http://www.linkmeup.com/pd4.html

Whichever product you choose, please post your results for the benefit of others . . . Thanks!
Thats good to know. I'm thinking of getting the 2K2 6-speed with HLSD sometime next year. Maybe I will just keep my 2K instead. I can't keep a factory stereo for too long.
Old Dec 6, 2001 | 02:45 PM
  #13  
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I'm getting ready to rip out the Bose system and replace it with aftermarket head unit, speakers, amp, and sub, so I checked with the parts department at my local Nissan dealership about the GXE radio bezel and pocket. They told me that the pocket is $36, but that the bezel only comes as part of the vent assembly, and the price is $102.

I was just wondering if maximadave or anyone else knows if that story about the bezel being part of the vent is true. I had the impression from maximadave's post that it was a separate piece and wouldn't cost more than 10 or 15 bucks. I could see spending roughly $50 for both parts, but not $150.

The part number I was given for the bezel/vent assembly is 68750-3Y100. Anyone know if this is this is the correct part number for the bezel?

Thanks.
Old Dec 6, 2001 | 05:23 PM
  #14  
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Yes, it is part of the vent assembly. The old one snaps off and the new one snaps right back on. Be careful taking off the old one. Use a little finesse when doing so....I almost broke my old one taking it off. Price is what I paid for mine too. Did you look at any 2K or 2K1 GXE Maximas on the lot while you were there?

Maximadave
Old Dec 8, 2001 | 01:57 PM
  #15  
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After learning that Maximadave paid the $100+ for the bezel and another $30-ish for the pocket, I decided to forego that option and I will be using the dash kit that comes from Crutchfield with the head unit.

I ordered a Blaupunkt Casablanca head unit. It was $300, and that includes the dash installation kit plus the necessary wiring harnesses. Didn't feel like shelling out close to $150 just for the dash kit, not including wiring harnesses.

Last night, my buddy and I installed my new speakers. 6-1/2" Infinity Kappa coax in the front, 5-1/4" Infinity Reference coax in the rear. They work just fine with the Bose head unit, amp, and wiring still in place. Sound is much better than stock, in my opinion, cleaner. Then we put together my Polk EX 10" sub and Q Logic box. I expect the head unit early next week, and will install head unit, amp, and sub at that time.

Maximadave, thanks for the suggestion and feedback, but I'm just too cheap! Hopefully Crutchfield dash kit will look decent.
Old Dec 8, 2001 | 04:07 PM
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Originally posted by Z Man
After learning that Maximadave paid the $100+ for the bezel and another $30-ish for the pocket, I decided to forego that option and I will be using the dash kit that comes from Crutchfield with the head unit.

I ordered a Blaupunkt Casablanca head unit. It was $300, and that includes the dash installation kit plus the necessary wiring harnesses. Didn't feel like shelling out close to $150 just for the dash kit, not including wiring harnesses.

Last night, my buddy and I installed my new speakers. 6-1/2" Infinity Kappa coax in the front, 5-1/4" Infinity Reference coax in the rear. They work just fine with the Bose head unit, amp, and wiring still in place. Sound is much better than stock, in my opinion, cleaner. Then we put together my Polk EX 10" sub and Q Logic box. I expect the head unit early next week, and will install head unit, amp, and sub at that time.

Maximadave, thanks for the suggestion and feedback, but I'm just too cheap! Hopefully Crutchfield dash kit will look decent.
I'm sure it will look good. You've picked out some good stuff. Enjoy it.

Maximadave
Old Dec 28, 2001 | 08:51 AM
  #17  
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Re: A Few Ideas

Originally posted by ABS
I've been thinking about doing the same thing with my 2K2 (keeping stock HU and upgrading speakers and amps). You should remember that pulling the HU on the 2K2 disables the Trip Computer.

There are at least 3 high end adapters that may work. These adapters are supposed to convert the Bose special "differential" pre-amp outputs to a normal output for use with any amp. Some provide gain adjustments etc. I'm really curios to know what everyone thinks of these and if anyone has used these products:

The Soundgate LOCB:
http://www.soundgate.com/adj-loc.html

The P.I.E. PDC-LOC4:
http://www.pie.net/sec12sb4.htm

The LinkMeUp PowerDriver PD4:
http://www.linkmeup.com/pd4.html

Has anyone tried any of these products with their 5 Gen Max?

Whichever product you choose, please post your results for the benefit of others . . . Thanks!
Old Dec 28, 2001 | 11:04 AM
  #18  
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Here's one for ya Dave...

Maximadave,

I am upgrading the system in my 2K1. I'm going with Boston Rally separates in front, and Boston Coaxials in back. I will have an Alpine MRV-F407(40 X 4) pushing them. I currently have a JL Audio 10W3 in a custom fiberglass box in the trunk over the passenger side wheel well. I am pushing the sub with an old Punch 75, but hope to upgrade that to the JL 250/1 soon. My question is this, I am running to the alpine from the head unit(factory), then from the Alpine to the Punch via preamp outs. When I had the punch put in with just the factory stuff, the guys put in a high/low converter and used RCA plugs. Would you suggest doing the same for the other(one on rear, one on front) output off of the radio? OR should I just ditch the converter and run it high level for both of them to the Alpine amp? Any advantages or dis-advantages either way?? Thanks....D-MAN
Old Dec 28, 2001 | 12:19 PM
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Re: Here's one for ya Dave...

Originally posted by DMAN11
Maximadave,

I am upgrading the system in my 2K1. I'm going with Boston Rally separates in front, and Boston Coaxials in back. I will have an Alpine MRV-F407(40 X 4) pushing them. I currently have a JL Audio 10W3 in a custom fiberglass box in the trunk over the passenger side wheel well. I am pushing the sub with an old Punch 75, but hope to upgrade that to the JL 250/1 soon. My question is this, I am running to the alpine from the head unit(factory), then from the Alpine to the Punch via preamp outs. When I had the punch put in with just the factory stuff, the guys put in a high/low converter and used RCA plugs. Would you suggest doing the same for the other(one on rear, one on front) output off of the radio? OR should I just ditch the converter and run it high level for both of them to the Alpine amp? Any advantages or dis-advantages either way?? Thanks....D-MAN
Run a good high to low converter like Soundgate. You will have to buy 2 of them because these are only 2 channel hi-low converters. Run 4 channel rcas from the converter to the amp, on the "preout" section of the amp (should be labled) run a 2 channel rca from your "preout" section of the amp to your Rockford Punch 75. This would be one of the best ways to do it. Are you keeping your factory deck?

Maximadave
Old Dec 28, 2001 | 04:47 PM
  #20  
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I am for the time....

[QUOTE]Originally posted by maximadave
[B]Run a good high to low converter like Soundgate. You will have to buy 2 of them because these are only 2 channel hi-low converters. Run 4 channel rcas from the converter to the amp, on the "preout" section of the amp (should be labled) run a 2 channel rca from your "preout" section of the amp to your Rockford Punch 75. This would be one of the best ways to do it. Are you keeping your factory deck?

Maximadave,

That's what I thought, but wanted to check with you first. I have one converter already, from when I had the Punch installed, do you think I should get 2 new ones? What kind of price should I get on the 2 soundgates? When hooking up the converters,,,it's just front right and front left speaker wires to the "front" converter right,,,then the same for the rears?? Four wires to the front converter, and 4 to the rear converter,,,right?

Yes, I am planning on keeping my factory head unit in place for now, until I can afford to get something really nice with 3 outputs on it. Any suggestions, I know you like Eclipse, what models should I check out? I have been thinking about getting the GXE bezel you talked about earlier, to keep a clean factory look when I get an aftermarket head unit though.

You mentioned 4 channel RCA's,,,I'm wondering on this one. Are you just talking about 2 sets of RCA's,,,or is there different setups to buy??

Thanks for the help, and all the info you give on the forum,,,,it has helped more times than once. Thanks....D-MAN
Old Dec 28, 2001 | 04:56 PM
  #21  
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Re: I am for the time....

[QUOTE]Originally posted by DMAN11
[B]
Originally posted by maximadave
Run a good high to low converter like Soundgate. You will have to buy 2 of them because these are only 2 channel hi-low converters. Run 4 channel rcas from the converter to the amp, on the "preout" section of the amp (should be labled) run a 2 channel rca from your "preout" section of the amp to your Rockford Punch 75. This would be one of the best ways to do it. Are you keeping your factory deck?

Maximadave,

That's what I thought, but wanted to check with you first. I have one converter already, from when I had the Punch installed, do you think I should get 2 new ones? What kind of price should I get on the 2 soundgates? When hooking up the converters,,,it's just front right and front left speaker wires to the "front" converter right,,,then the same for the rears?? Four wires to the front converter, and 4 to the rear converter,,,right?

Yes, I am planning on keeping my factory head unit in place for now, until I can afford to get something really nice with 3 outputs on it. Any suggestions, I know you like Eclipse, what models should I check out? I have been thinking about getting the GXE bezel you talked about earlier, to keep a clean factory look when I get an aftermarket head unit though.

You mentioned 4 channel RCA's,,,I'm wondering on this one. Are you just talking about 2 sets of RCA's,,,or is there different setups to buy??

Thanks for the help, and all the info you give on the forum,,,,it has helped more times than once. Thanks....D-MAN
Look at the Eclipse 54410. It goes for $269.99. 3 sets of preouts, etc. Go to your Nissan dealership and get a 2K or a 2K1 Maxima GXE radio bezel. I did this when I installed my Eclipse monitor in my dash and looks a hell of alot better than the aftermarket kits available. 2 high to low adapters you will need. Correct, 4 speaker wires into one converter for front and same for the back. Let me know.

Maximadave
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