sub not working
sub not working
n00bage here 
basically, a couple of years i wired up my 3rd gen for subs, had a tiny amp with a tiny subwoofer. wiring was pure basic, no capacitator or anything. after, kept the same amp, got a 12" sub (pioneer, wasnt extremely powerful). then i upgraded to a bigger amp, a JBL (cant remember the wattage), and the power light on the amp wouldnt go on. i figured maybe the amp was bad so i wired up my old working amp, and it wouldnt light up either
afterwards for some stupid reason i upgraded to a fairly powerful sub (Pioneer Premier) and have the JBL amp still. havent had my subs running in a year and a half and its killing me. everytime i mess with the wiring i change the fuses on the amp just incase and still nothing.
is it possible that the amp isnt getting enough power from my wiring? or did i blow a fuse somewhere on the car? pretty sure i never pinched a wire anywhere and my ground wire is tight

basically, a couple of years i wired up my 3rd gen for subs, had a tiny amp with a tiny subwoofer. wiring was pure basic, no capacitator or anything. after, kept the same amp, got a 12" sub (pioneer, wasnt extremely powerful). then i upgraded to a bigger amp, a JBL (cant remember the wattage), and the power light on the amp wouldnt go on. i figured maybe the amp was bad so i wired up my old working amp, and it wouldnt light up either
afterwards for some stupid reason i upgraded to a fairly powerful sub (Pioneer Premier) and have the JBL amp still. havent had my subs running in a year and a half and its killing me. everytime i mess with the wiring i change the fuses on the amp just incase and still nothing.
is it possible that the amp isnt getting enough power from my wiring? or did i blow a fuse somewhere on the car? pretty sure i never pinched a wire anywhere and my ground wire is tight
You checked the fuses at/on the amp. Did you check the fuse at the battery? If you have a volt meter or test light, see if you have voltage on the battery line and remote line(with radio on) at the amp. Be sure you have a good ground too.
yeah i'll do the voltage test then. thanks
again noobage
but my old amp was ghetto (beat up Crunch USA brand) and the power cable holder on the amp was fawked up so we just took the connector off of the power cable (the horseshoe looking piece) so the copper wires were showing and connected it to the amp which worked. could that be why the new amp isnt working? (still has a tight connection, cant see why not)
also this is severe n00bage, but when i was swapping amps my arm hit the loose power cable, and the power cable touched a fuse i had laying in the trunk and caused as spark, could that have affected anything?
again noobage
but my old amp was ghetto (beat up Crunch USA brand) and the power cable holder on the amp was fawked up so we just took the connector off of the power cable (the horseshoe looking piece) so the copper wires were showing and connected it to the amp which worked. could that be why the new amp isnt working? (still has a tight connection, cant see why not)also this is severe n00bage, but when i was swapping amps my arm hit the loose power cable, and the power cable touched a fuse i had laying in the trunk and caused as spark, could that have affected anything?
perhaps the remote wire burnt out from behind the radio. its possible the amp could have shock damage but that most likely would blow the fuse under your hood. use a meter...test your power and ground wires by the amp for 12 volts. then keep the ground lead on your meter attached, and attach the pos lead from your meter to the remote wire for 12 volts. your problem may be solved then.
if your remote wire has no power and is not pinched and grounding out somewhere, you can connect the wire to the acc wire (red) on the radio, but may experience your speakers to slightly pop everytime the radio turns on. try to replace the radio then.
yeah i'll do the voltage test then. thanks
again noobage
but my old amp was ghetto (beat up Crunch USA brand) and the power cable holder on the amp was fawked up so we just took the connector off of the power cable (the horseshoe looking piece) so the copper wires were showing and connected it to the amp which worked. could that be why the new amp isnt working? (still has a tight connection, cant see why not)
also this is severe n00bage, but when i was swapping amps my arm hit the loose power cable, and the power cable touched a fuse i had laying in the trunk and caused as spark, could that have affected anything?
again noobage
but my old amp was ghetto (beat up Crunch USA brand) and the power cable holder on the amp was fawked up so we just took the connector off of the power cable (the horseshoe looking piece) so the copper wires were showing and connected it to the amp which worked. could that be why the new amp isnt working? (still has a tight connection, cant see why not)also this is severe n00bage, but when i was swapping amps my arm hit the loose power cable, and the power cable touched a fuse i had laying in the trunk and caused as spark, could that have affected anything?
Far as 12V remote source goes there should be a source from the after market HU if not you can connect to any 12V power source to turn the amp on.
to all the above. 1. check your fuses
2. take some sand paper to the area that your using or find another ground
3. trace the remote turn on switch coming from the back of the radio
4. just make sure that the subwoofer is turned on in your head unit too
lol my old thread bumped!
ive had a crapload of other stuff to get done on the car so the subs kinda got buried in the to-do list but tomorrow im going to take another crack at it
ive had a crapload of other stuff to get done on the car so the subs kinda got buried in the to-do list but tomorrow im going to take another crack at it
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Maxima30
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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Sep 7, 2015 06:13 PM



