xspanishxkidx

iTrader: (1)

Hi I have 1800 watt (900 rms) watt amp running on my sub. My trunk in my maxima rattles way too much . Do you guys think I should add a single layer or a double layer of dynamat to my trunk? And how much dynamat do you think I will need for a single layer to cover my trunk? I found a 20ft trunk kit I'm not sure if it's enough thanks

Negafen

I'd advise the use of a brand other than dynamat.

b-quiet
fatmat
raamaudio
cascade audio equipment
secondskin
or eDead

All are either much cheaper and a little better, or much much better and similar in price.

(I like raam the best)

as for how much, all of those have great customer service, just ask and they'll tell you.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

Second Skin is awesome and Ant provides great customer service

xspanishxkidx

iTrader: (1)

Ok so if I go with secondskin damp what exactly do I need and how much ?

ButtaMax

iTrader: (7)

fatmat SUX, its thin and flemsy, I use dynamat extreme b/c I can get it @ near cost...

If I had to pay full price Second Skin would be my choice!!

I have 2 1/2 door kits in my trunk (dont ask me how much that is)

xspanishxkidx

iTrader: (1)

Just got Off the phone with best buy they charge me $150 to install the damplifier pro in my whole trunk I think that is too much I also have never done it before and don't want to do it wrong. IDE rather leave it to someone who knows. Does anyone think this is too much for installation? Anyone know anywhere who does it cheaper?

xspanishxkidx

iTrader: (1)

The guy at best buy also told me I'll need about 6-7 layers o fully get rid of the rattle if I was using dynamt

Negafen

Hoooooly crap. That's a load of bull.

If you want to DIY and save a good stack of cash the new reformulated Raam is about the best stuff on the market, and very nearly the cheapest.

Nicest guy in the world too. He'll pretty much walk you through the process, and try to save you a few bucks if you call him.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

Those guys at best buy are trying to rip you off so bad. In your case I would say you need enough to cover your trunk lid once, maybe twice. and enough to cover your inner trunk. Im gonna say ~40 sq. ft.....if that

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

then you wouldn't be able to see out of your rear window.

what morons! I wish I was there to hear that.

xspanishxkidx

iTrader: (1)

I know I thought the same thing the guy was full of BS lol also thank you so much guys for your help! You guys are the best!. Also how much would 40sq ft of that raam Stuff cost?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

IDK, but 40 sq. ft of second skin damplifier costs $104.98

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

and it is very easy to install, and fair warning wear some gloves

ButtaMax

iTrader: (7)

^^^^^^^^^ what he said...

one of those wooden rollers is a lifesaver too..

xspanishxkidx

iTrader: (1)

so your saying 40sq ft of damplifier pro cost $104?

Negafen

150sq feet of raammaat bxt 2 only cost $100.

I'd skip the second skin and just do your whole car for the same budget.

bryantrachi

how does the dynamat and all that stuff work and how does it look? any one have pics?

lorin

all these products add mass, which dampens vibrations and the frequencies that are generated. I added a single layer on my trunk lid and it came out fairly well. One caveat is that with the heavier trunk lid, the factory springs that "pop" the trunk when opening no longer pop it up (it does open, but you have to lift by hand). What I found in my situation is that much of the rattle and noise came from sources other than the trunk lid. IE, license plate frame (put some dynamat on the back of the license plate) and the spring bars under the trunk (covered portions with rubber fuel line). The latter two changes made as much difference as the trunk. All that said, applying the stuff couldnt be much easier. Make sure you have a clean surface (clean with alcohol), apply in warm weather, cut to fit, and apply (just like putting a sticker on a window) . The aforementioned use of a roller is a good suggestion.

WhiteMaxima9600

Go with secondskin

brianfu777

anyone know how to remove the rear deck of a 2007 Maxima??

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

found this by SEARCHING

First you need to remove the panels covering the C-pillars. Be very careful when doing this because one of the friction fittings (the orange one) can be a bear to get loose. I recommend getting a panel popper tool. Autozone has them for a few bucks. Second, you need to fold your rear seats down and take out the bolts holding the frame for the rear seat in place. Four of the bolts are located behind the panels covering the folding seat latches. Third, remove the rear door sills. These are also held down by friction fittings. Once the sills are out, you can pull the rear seat frame forward. Last, you can slide your hand under the rear deck and carefully start popping the friction fittings holding it loose. One word of warning, pay close attention to the locations of the friction fittings because when you go to put the deck back together, you have to make sure all of them are seated back down or your deck will rattle.

brianfu777

thanks for your input... but wow.
that sounds confusing.. u sure that's for 2007 maxima?

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

its for a 6th gen. Im sure there is an Orger close who could help you out

for a 4th gen you have to remove the back seats, remove the c pillars then the lid, then pop the shelf out

6th gen-remove c pillars, fold rear seats down, remove rear seat frame bolts, rear door sills, pull seat forward, the pop the shelf out

brianfu777

When I'm referring to rear deck, I'm reffering to that big plastic piece covered above.

I'm not sure if that's even called a rear deck.. sorry if I used the wrong term.

BUT I KNOW something is rattling down there!! How do I remove that?

What's a C-pillar..??

cfr94

Line-X it!!!