shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

I currently have it the sub wired parallel and bridged to amp...which Im told is BAD because the Amp specs say 4 ohm when bridged mono. But i've been running this since I bought the car (came with sub/amp). Never noticed the sub turning off or any intense over heating. Amp is set at 110 LPF , 2 v, and 0 boost.





Would this be appropriate? Some say the sub will not get exact frequencies from the LEFT and RIGHT simultaneously.




So, should I do it the 2nd way? Or would that damage my sub? Also, whats this about running a RCA splitter to one of the either Left or RIGHT inputs to run the 2nd method? Does that Mean I need to remove the Left RCA wire from my Head unit and run 2 RIGHTS and combine those to the Right Input on amp only? Any drawbacks to that?

Sony XM-SD22x



Sub is SWR-1402 Alpine Type R 10" 4 Ohm DVC

importcf

looks like its 2ohm stable

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

Ok cool, so my next question is....why doesn't it feel like its getting much RMS even though the sub is demanding more? Are my settings fine?

110 LPF on, 2v, zero boost.

Should I up the boost? I was told not too though...

WhiteMaxima9600

It says 2-8ohms (stereo) 4-8ohms (bridged) If your wired parallel I think that's not gonna be stable. Check the link below, this is how it should be wired. As far as the rca split, ive never heard of it.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...1&woofer_imp=4

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

Yea, but I've been running it like this since I bought the car and never had any Protection mode or over heating issues.


Is it safe to say that If i keep it parallel and bridged @ 2 ohms, that the amp will protect itself and not catch my car on fire? Thats all im worried about. Im not worried about killing the amp, i just don't want a marshmallow for a car.

WhiteMaxima9600

I ran a sub that way once with no troubles, but i changed it just to be safe. It's better to have a dual 2ohm for running just one sub. that way you can bridge it at 4ohm with no worries

qu8storm

I had a single 4ohm sub runnning bridge on a 2 channel amp for almost 10 years and the sup just stop putting out any good sound. It still play no good bass responce, I know the sub is gone because I put it on another amp and it still play low. Over that long period I just slowly killed the sub running it at 2hms with an amp that wasn't 2ohm stable. The clipping killed it and I didn't know it.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

First off you have a Dual 4 ohm sub, not a single 4 ohm dvc. Now for a bridged setup, the minimum load the amp is asking for is 4 ohms, so you're over driving it with a 2 ohm load, however with the wiring the actual resistance could potentially be near 4 ohms, hence why you're not experiencing any major issues.

mjhuffer

• 200 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms)
• 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode
• These are the specs I found on crutchfield

alright you should technically run you sub the second way you have it pictured. You shouldn't damage you sub because you are placing each voice coil in the right ohm configuration. This amp has no way to be bridged to 2 ohms so bridging it probably isn't a good thing. If you want to keep the amp you need to go out and find a dual 2 ohm voice coil sub and bridge it up to 4 ohms using series wiring then bridge it or run it series like you have in the second picture (each voice coil going to each channel of the amp). That way your amp will be running at full wattage based on ohms. The other thing you could do is go out and find a new mono amp that is stable at 2 ohms and parallel wire it like in the first picture. With one dual voice coil sub, you can either wire it up x2 using series or wire it down x 0.5 with parallel series. I'm actually selling 2 15 inch PR Memphis (Dual 4 ohm) that would be perfect for this amp. You should also never look at max and look more at RMS power to match subs and amp.
each voice coil on that type R is rated at 250 RMS so if you wire it the second way you will be pumping 200 watts RMS into each voice coil...There will be no delay. It will simply be like pushing two single voice coil 4 ohm subs at the same time. Hopefully I could help if you have any more questions please ask.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...1&woofer_imp=4
this is a great website to learn about subwoofer wiring and options.

for instance right now I have one dual 2 ohm voice coil sub wiring into a 1 ohm stable mono block amp.


ALL IN ALL RUN IT THE SECOND WAY IF YOU DONT WANT TO BUY ANYTHING ELSE

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

but wont running it series mess up the sub since each coil isn't getting the same amount of power? based on RIGHT or LEFT stereo sound.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Not it won't and you don't have stereo sound out of ONE woofer.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

But the amp puts out left and right...its not a mono amp, its a stereo amp.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

You're running it bridged, right? That = single channel = mono output.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

yes, currently its mono, but if i run it in SERIES its not MONO anymore, each coil would get a different single depending on what side the bass is coming from. This is what i've read, and its not advised because it will mess up your sub. Im more worried about the sub because its such a fine piece of ***, the amp i could care less.

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

If you run it in series or parallel, it's still mono. You don't have two inputs to the sub, you have one therefore NO stereo separation.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

well thats kind of a relief. So does LEFT/RIGHT Aux cables coming from head unit into the sub don't mean anything?


Thanks for the help. Ill try it

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Simply allows a higher total preout voltage into the amp. And you mean pre-out, not aux, right?

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

Dont know. It justs a red tipped connection and a white tip that is labeled L and R, plugged into the back of my head unit under Subwoofer.

WhiteMaxima9600

Don't worry about any of that, nismos knows what he's talking about