Konrad

iTrader: (5)

I've done a crap load of searching for this info, but I can't find which wires to tap into with the lineout converter. I'm hooking up an amp and sub using the lineout converter. I have the stock Bose and I need to know which wires I tap into in the back. I know I'm supposed to tap into + on one side and - on the other but there are a lot of wires. Also, which wire is the remote wire?

Thanks in advance!

The subs on the rear deck have this connection:
- left (driver's) sub : white, black/gray
- right (pssgr's) sub : white, black/gray, black (higher gauge), yellow (higher gauge)

Qtr

or




I spliced the wires going into the amp. Green with White stripe is remote. Good luck ;-)

Switch

Hey guys. I need to know the answer to this very same question. I just had 2 10" subs and a 1200 watt class d mono amp installed and it sounds like trash and my rear speaker are barely playing at all whan faded to the rear. I think the installer got something wrong. With the gain on the amp jacked all the way up and the volume almost maxed its still not all that noticable and it should be.

Thanks

JB

Bassbreaker

iTrader: (8)

if you can barely hear it when it's faded to the rear, the installer hooked the LOC up to your front speakers

MadMax07SL

Specifically what amp, and do you know what the installer attached to for a signal?

If it's connected to the output for the Bose sub amp/speaker, you'll most certainly need an LOC to boost that output. Even on an amp that is suposed to take in Speaker level inputs, gain is all the way up, but output is **** poor...Seen that on two amps that just didn't cut it using the built in speaker level inputs, had to go with the LOC...

Tony Two-Tone

I don't have 15 posts yet, so I'll ask the question here. I wired an amp into the factory BOSE amp in the trunk and I can't get the remote wire to stay on. It comes on for a split-second and turns right back off. I've checked and rechecked the wires and everything is fine. I've also read about 20 threads on installing amps on the BOSE system and haven't found an answer to the specific question. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Not enough voltage. Add a relay.

Qtr

I had the same problem. On your LOC there should be a hole or two on the body. If you look inside you should see a plastic philips (probably) screw. This is the level of signal that it will be sending to your amp. For my LOC, the sub barely even makes noise unless the level is all the way up. Just stick a screwdriver in the hole and turn it both ways until your sub works.

Qtr

I have the remote wire spliced into the one going into the stock amp too. I'm not sure what the problem could be but a solution would be to splice your remote wire with the remote wire coming out of the back of your head unit.

Tony Two-Tone

Thanks for the responses, guys. Since I couldn't figure it out and would have had to run wires to the front anyway, I wound up running the remote to the 12v outlet in the armrest console and mounted a switch inside the console so that I can turn the amp/subs on and off seperate from the HU/rest of the speakers.

Qtr

Good idea. Always good to have a kill switch just in case.